New to FJ40 Scene

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As for the speedo, the correction gear I used does a perfect job of spinning the wire in the tube..😂. My new differential gear ration and tires cut the accuracy. Using a speedometer app on the iPhone I would keep it stuck to the dash and my cluster read 40 but the GPS app read 48. Since the speedo cable has been working for the last 51 years on mine, the little inline gear changer thing is fine,

We have a few places on the local road that have those solar powered ‘YOUR SPEED IS;” signs. When I’m speeding past it, it reads the exact same as my Silverado so I drove by it several times to check and the FJ40 cluster is spot-on… if that helps
 
My LS swap Fj40 is running a fully functional OEM cluster. With basic mods and OEM reliability.

Assuming you are going to run a Toyotas transfer case it’s really simple.

@cruisermatt has some basic adapters for oil pressure and coolant temp. I run these.

My Speedo works off of a cable attached to the OEM transfer case and will operate the same when I switch to a split transfer case.

I run a $120 obd2 port scan gauge for more accurate readings. I’ll try to remember to get you a picture when I drive to work tomorrow.

For roughly 10% of the cost of a Dakota digital you can make your dead reliable OEM cluster work with the LS swap.
 
I agree with the others here: you can make your stock cluster work very easily because speed comes off the transfer case. You also are running a slush box, so no need for a tach.

I really prefer the look of the factory cluster. But I wanted a tach and my stock temp guage didn't work. I really like the Dakota Digital, and it's very nicely made. But I'd stick with the stock cluster if I were in your shoes.

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Just curious, is anyone out there ever put the legendary 2JZ twin turbo into an FJ40? Or has anyone seen one done? There would certainly be plenty of room.
I've had fleeting thoughts of the implications of shoe horning this "Legendary" '50's era McCulloch (Paxton) belt driven VS57 supercharger into my 40. I pulled this from a Kaiser car I still own, over thirty five years ago. These were factory installed on some of the Continental 226 c.i.d. inline six cylinder cars. If I recall McCulloch claimed 5 to 6 lbs. boost and 38% increase in horsepower. These were also used by Ford, Studebaker, and Packard in the day. And then I came to my senses.

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These were factory installed on some of the Continental 226 c.i.d. inline six cylinder cars. If I recall McCulloch claimed 5 to 6 lbs. boost and 38% increase in horsepower. These were also used by Ford, Studebaker, and Packard in the day. And then I came to my senses.

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I've seen one of those before...

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Locks?
Since my FJ40 was only here at the house less than a day before it was towed to begin work on it, I can't remember something. It is a 1971 with a build date of December 1970. I think I remember seeing a key lock just below the driver's side door handle, and doing a Google Gemini search of lock cylinder locations on a 1971 FJ40 it said there are 3, the ignition, the driver's door, and the liftgate. But looking at the pics I have from its original internet for sale listing I do not see a lock cylinder on the liftgate. Is it behind the spare tire? See pics below:

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It's next to the lift gate handle, per this pic of my '71.

View attachment 4190131

Thank you. I ordered a new ignition cylinder & keys for it because my key said... are you ready for this... "Briggs & Stratton" on it. LOL! :rofl: 🤣 Some PO must have put a riding lawnmower ignition in it. So when the new one arrives I'd like to take the lock from the driver's door & liftgate to a locksmith and have them keyed the same as the ignition. I've read that originally 1 key worked all 3. I wish the passenger's door had a lock on it because I still like unlocking my wife's door first and holding the door for her. 🙂
 
Look around for a RHD door and chivalry will be alive and well again in Central Florida. Actually, I bet it would be fairly easy to install a lock on the right door: the latch has the receiver in it, so it would only need the lock in the door to work.

And Toyota embraced chivalry again in '75 when they went to locks on both doors, rather than just on the driver's side.
 
Wiring Harness
Opinions please. I want / need to get a 21 circuit wiring harness for the build. It seems like I remember back in the day, guys saying the Painless Wiring cost a little more, but that it was worth it.

Painless has been around since I was doing streetrods 30+ years ago. So, I was thinking about possibly this one:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-10101

But I also saw this one on Amazon for about $240 less, it looks to have more fuses, but it may not be labeled or made as well as the Painless:

Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C4NMW281/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1B87ZN58HI0CS&psc=1

Thoughts?

Thanks
 
Opinions please. I want / need to get a 21 circuit wiring harness for the build. It seems like I remember back in the day, guys saying the Painless Wiring cost a little more, but that it was worth it.

Painless has been around since I was doing streetrods 30+ years ago. So, I was thinking about possibly this one:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-10101

But I also saw this one on Amazon for about $240 less, it looks to have more fuses, but it may not be labeled or made as well as the Painless:

Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C4NMW281/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1B87ZN58HI0CS&psc=1

Thoughts?

Thanks

@Jdc1 likes and uses this one: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/12-C...VyDDIhGFUHtfALqKZMarjcxD0-Uo1YF-TNPckJczPTCfo
 
REMINDER
Whew! This was an expensive day! I ordered the Dakota Digital RTX instrument cluster that Jesse strongly recommended (and he's right, with the LS swap it needs all that the RTX can do) + the BIM-01-2 - OBD II / CAN Interface Module for it, and the wiring harness he recommended too, and the LS bench bend shifter with the cable linkage kit.

Hopefully those are the last of the big ticket items, except for A/C. Gotta have A/C here!

So, just a REMINDER, I've got a kidney for sale if anyone needs one. 😳 😮
 
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Whew! This was an expensive day! I ordered the Dakota Digital RTX instrument cluster that Jesse strongly recommended (and he's right, with the LS swap it needs all that the RTX can do) + the BIM-01-2 - OBD II / CAN Interface Module for it, and the wiring harness he recommended too, and the LS bench shifter with the cable linkage kit.

Hopefully those are the last of the big ticket items, except for A/C. Gotta have A/C here!

So, just a REMINDER, I've got a kidney for sale if anyone needs one. 😳 😮
You aren’t out of the woods yet- last details add up. But the first drive makes it all worth it.
 
Once the big ticket items are bought and installed is when the project will nickle and dime you till the end.
 
A little more progress....
Plenty of material left to do the dash pads to match thee seats. It is soft compared to typical vinyl. It’ll be interesting to see when it’s all together with the dash too.

This week seam sealed the inside, bedliner the interior, welded in the rear tube brace and mid/rear frame braces. Remounted the body, installed the body mounts, installed engine sensors, power steering delete, and throttle body. Installed the transmission cooler lines also. The fuel tank was also cut and modified to accept the GM internal fuel pump & pressure gauge to feed the fuel injection..
 
Christmas in August...
Today the stainless steel powder coated red flexible / shapeable radiator hoses and ends arrived (dissipate heat better too), the Dakota Digital RTX instrument cluster and BIM OBDII module arrived (BTW cheaper through Summit than Dakota), the wiring harness Jesse recommended (well, and to be fair he recommended the Dakota too) all arrived today, and the Bosch O2 sensors & weld in bungs arrived yesterday. Getting closer......
 
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