New to FJ40 Scene

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Definitely no rust buckets in AZ. My dad lives in AZ and I did from 2004 - 2008.

Yeah, I called up Advanced Adapters to order the adapter I needed and they had run out and it was going to be a little while before they had another run of them ready, so they recommended I call Rick over at BTB. I've bought parts from Rick before so I gave him a call. I have to give him all the credit, he said he could sell it to me, but that he tries to steer customers away from doing it with the original transfer case because it would whine so bad it would drive me nuts and I would not enjoy, and that I should go with a split transfer case. So I am very thankful he told me about that. 👍

Will probably end up changing mine if I can get it with the parking brake drum. Driving with earplugs for now.
 
Will probably end up changing mine if I can get it with the parking brake drum. Driving with earplugs for now.

I can help with the parking brake parts. It’s about $1200 for the kit to add to split case. Honestly a FJ60 rear axle is a way better way to go though.
 
I can help with the parking brake parts. It’s about $1200 for the kit to add to split case. Honestly a FJ60 rear axle is a way better way to go though.

Yep, @cruisermatt I can vouch for that, whatever you need, cruisermatt either has or can get it for you. And, from his parking lot you can literally throw a stone and hit the side of the USPS (United States Postal Service) so he can quickly and easily get anything shipped to you. 👍
 
Yep, @cruisermatt I can vouch for that, whatever you need, cruisermatt either has or can get it for you. And, from his parking lot you can literally throw a stone and hit the side of the USPS (United States Postal Service) so he can quickly and easily get anything shipped to you. 👍
So that’s his secret- just had an FJ60 tank delivered in 2 days.

Looking good, Don- it’ll get easier to see progress after rust purgatory is over.
 
FYI - Power Steering Delete Info New
If anyone out there reading this thread decides to do an LS swap and EPS (Electric Power Steering) like I did, then you will want to delete the power steering pump on your LS or LM7 (truck & Tahoe cast iron block version of the LS) engine. I did some searching and called a company named ICT Billet. They make brackets for anything you can imagine. Below is a link to the correct part number needed to delete the power steering pump and adds an idler pulley to get more belt wrap around the water pump rather than just removing the power steering pump and putting on a shorter belt (which does not give you as much belt wrap around the water pump), for a Gen 3 LS (or LM7) found in a Tahoe, Silverado, and so on:

LS Truck OEM Location Alternator Bracket - PS Delete - LS Truck OEM Location Alternator Bracket - PS Delete - https://www.ictbillet.com/products/ls-truck-oem-location-alternator-bracket-ps-delete?variant=47267501703398

AND, they no longer make the bracket & idler pulley that allowed you to use the original factory serpentine belt, so the belt number that you will need is: k060755
 
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Driver's Side Rear New
Took cruisermatt's advice and flipped the rear springs, and the driver's side wheel well has been adjusted.

IMG_20260610_213534.webp
 
Going to be well worth the effort!!
 
HELP New
HELP - I need some helpful advice please.

So, with doing the LS & automatic transmission swap (4L60E) and the electric power steering and using the original steering column and box, the LS & transmission had to move over to the passenger's side about 1" to clear everything. With running the vacuum style split case, the vacuum actuator sits too high to run my OEM stock gas tank in it's original location. If we drop the t-case below the frame rails then it's only about 6" from the ground. Anyone have any solutions? @cruisermatt have you run into this problem before? Or @Jdc1 have you run into this before? Did you guys get a different gas tank and relocate it, or did you drop the t-case lower and reduce the ground clearance, or another solution?

Thank you everyone for any suggestions!

IMG_1259.webp
 
HELP - I need some helpful advice please.

So, with doing the LS & automatic transmission swap (4L60E) and the electric power steering and using the original steering column and box, the LS & transmission had to move over to the passenger's side about 1" to clear everything. With running the vacuum style split case, the vacuum actuator sits too high to run my OEM stock gas tank in it's original location. If we drop the t-case below the frame rails then it's only about 6" from the ground. Anyone have any solutions? @cruisermatt have you run into this problem before? Or @Jdc1 have you run into this before? Did you guys get a different gas tank and relocate it, or did you drop the t-case lower and reduce the ground clearance, or another solution?

Thank you everyone for any suggestions!

View attachment 4159037
I ditched the OE steering box and went with an FJ80 setup, it’s still close. Next one will be the same. I currently doing a pair of H55/ splitcase swaps.

IMG_0832.webp
 
you shouldn't have to chop that much out of the floor/tub to do what you are doing. Something is up
 
you shouldn't have to chop that much out of the floor/tub to do what you are doing. Something is up
He has 1/4” from the vac on the t case to sitting on the frame, 1/2” from his steering box to his aftermarket headers, and 1/2” from his ac compressor hitting his passenger side frame. It’s 1/2” from his electric fan at the front as well. Without something going away it can’t move one way or another any direction. Unless I messed something up of course. It’s always possible.
 
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Hmm let’s see some more pictures of engine bay, undercarriage, etc
 
Are you going to weld up all the extra holes in the dash since it like you’re going to be re painting a bunch of the body work anyways?
 
Are you going to weld up all the extra holes in the dash since it like you’re going to be re painting a bunch of the body work anyways?

"IF" I remember correctly, and I could be wrong, there was only 1 empty dash hole and the Bluetooth stereo will go there. Then there is the ash tray, and I have one of those which I was planning to do as an ash tray, but I could convert that to the spot with my Vintage Air controls. Opinions???
 
"IF" I remember correctly, and I could be wrong, there was only 1 empty dash hole and the Bluetooth stereo will go there. Then there is the ash tray, and I have one of those which I was planning to do as an ash tray, but I could convert that to the spot with my Vintage Air controls. Opinions???
Heads up on the Vintage Air- it will not like the vacuum 4x4 lever and tab, plus the cowl vent tab. Depending on which kit- it hates the EPS too.
 
HELP - I need some helpful advice please.

So, with doing the LS & automatic transmission swap (4L60E) and the electric power steering and using the original steering column and box, the LS & transmission had to move over to the passenger's side about 1" to clear everything. With running the vacuum style split case, the vacuum actuator sits too high to run my OEM stock gas tank in it's original location. If we drop the t-case below the frame rails then it's only about 6" from the ground. Anyone have any solutions? @cruisermatt have you run into this problem before? Or @Jdc1 have you run into this before? Did you guys get a different gas tank and relocate it, or did you drop the t-case lower and reduce the ground clearance, or another solution?

Thank you everyone for any suggestions!

View attachment 4159037

Are you using the FJ60 transmission mount? I didn’t cut my floor at all and ended up using the propeller mount on the one piece Tcase and retained all of the vacuum shift linkage. The 60 mount either pushed everything too high or hung too low.
Moving everything to the passenger side may give you front DS clearance issues too.
 
The entire powerstrain really should have the same offset to the driver's side as the orignal powertrain (approx 1.5" off center)

We really need some pics here.
 
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