new lx 5 speed top plates

[dopypuppy]

That's awesome news!! Now I don't use Facebook... Could provide some updates here? Thanks!

A link to a crowd funding site will be posted here in the next few days. It will give you the opertunity to purchase the top plate at cost price.

Cost $850AU
Including domestic postage in Australia.
Only re-manufacturing cast aluminum top plate and gear leaver seat. All other parts reuse the 60 series top plate.

 

[dopypuppy]

That's awesome news!! Now I don't use Facebook... Could provide some updates here? Thanks!

A crowd funding site will be posted here in a few days. One of the options will be to purchase a top plate at cost price

Cost AU $850
Includes cast aluminum top plate and gear leaver seat. All other parts are reused from the 60 series.

 

[dopypuppy]

It is ready to go. see top post for details. www.pozi.be/5speed

 

[Living in the Past]

Includes cast aluminum top plate and gear leaver seat. All other parts are reused from the 60 series.

Problem is not all the parts on the 60 series are the same as the 40 series. Wish it was that simple. A lot of the internal parts are different and may or may not be available.

 

[dopypuppy]

I have pulled both apart and re-asembled. Only one part is different internaly which is included.
Well officialy two parts. You will end up with an unused bolt hole on one shaft.

 

[Living in the Past]

I have pulled both apart and re-asembled. Only one part is different internaly which is included.
Well officialy two parts. You will end up with an unused bolt hole on one shaft.

I was going off of a online parts site comparing the two. If you have switch one already that great. If you buy a new H55F everything would be new. At that price point looks like a H55F might very well be in my future.

 

[dopypuppy]

What part store where you using. It would be nice to know what is avalible. Looking for a reliable source for shaft pins, shaft end-caps springs and ball bearings. The kind of things people loose or like to replace while it is apart.

Also Sometimes part numbers changed with no or insignificant changes to the part.

 

[PabloCruise]

It is ready to go. see top post for details. www.pozi.be/5speed

Wow, awesome!

 

[mdsims]

With the USD where it is today, this is appealing. It's still a risk to pony up. I have a few questions.
1. Your part is cast, like the original. Did you run the numbers on a billet solution?
2. Did you look into modifying the 60-series cover by cutting the shift tower out and welding into the proper location?
3. Have you installed the prototype cover and been able to confirm it shifts correctly, smoothly, etc?

 

[Fast Eddy]

3. Have you installed the prototype cover and been able to confirm it shifts correctly, smoothly, etc?

That's really the thing. If you get 75 people to pony up, then you need two rounds of one of the expensive steps, what's the plan?

When crowd-funding projects go bad, people get really pissed. I'm tempted, but tentative. If I was 100% sure it would work, I'd fund a few of them.

 

[dopypuppy]

With the USD where it is today, this is appealing. It's still a risk to pony up. I have a few questions.
1. Your part is cast, like the original. Did you run the numbers on a billet solution?
2. Did you look into modifying the 60-series cover by cutting the shift tower out and welding into the proper location?
3. Have you installed the prototype cover and been able to confirm it shifts correctly, smoothly, etc?

1.Best billet and prodotype cast was $3500 in china
2. Considered the cut and weld. It didnt work out neatly. I didnt go down the path of quots as its not a real comercial solution.
3. Only with the origional part with 60 series parts installed internaly. I have also not hade it in the car and running. Currently still have the leaver seat a the foundary still. When it returns it will be strait back in.

To drop the price a see a couple of options. Having it made offshore or re-designing so a less bumps and curves to to tooling on.

 

[Fast Eddy]

To drop the price a see a couple of options. Having it made offshore or re-designing so a less bumps and curves to to tooling on.

I think the price is ok. It's the risk of it not working that's a problem. Re-tooling will cost another $200 for each one. I don't mean to be a nay-sayer, so sorry if it sounds like that. I'm just pointing out what should be obvious. but may not be.

There's a casting step, then a machining step, correct?

 

[dopypuppy]

I think the price is ok. It's the risk of it not working that's a problem. Re-tooling will cost another $200 for each one. I don't mean to be a nay-sayer, so sorry if it sounds like that. I'm just pointing out what should be obvious. but may not be.

There's a casting step, then a machining step, correct?

Yes casting then machining and heat treatment to T6

My quote was for up to 100 with the tooling. I have just tried calling them to confirm, but ended sending an email.

Your right if re-tooling had to happen it would cost potentially $200. I personaly dont know the process or there machinery well enough if tooling can be repaired or gets a shorter life when keeping within closer tolerances.

Thanks for the concern. I do not want this to fail part way through.

 

[mdsims]

My concern is that you don't have a in-vehicle functioning prototype. You have a dry shifting prototype.

3. Only with the origional part with 60 series parts installed internaly. I have also not hade it in the car and running. Currently still have the leaver seat a the foundary still. When it returns it will be strait back in.

I think the buyers are there, and at $650 USD, you are very much in the ballpark to make many of us interested. I'm interested. But I'm also honest, and you seem to be a person that values such honesty: I'd need to see a video of the prototype installed in a 40, driving down the road, working up and down through the gears. In your truck, in another MUD members truck, or even someone reputable in the states (NOT me, if you will mail the prototype).

I just think without that piece of credibility and real-life feedback, it's going to be hard to bring this to market.

I hope this is received the right way, I'll be the first to buy one if you can post such a video.

 

[rick_d]

I picked up five NOS top plates housings in 2002 from a mine in canada and built them into 40 series from 60 series donors. The upper rod is different with shifter receiver "wing" is a single piece in 40 series and two castings in a 60/70 series. I was able to buy the factory rods and single shifter-wing casting and swap out the rods and freeze plugs to make new complete top plate (sold for under $400 as new w top plate core from -60450 tranny). Internally the other rods are identical. hope that helps with all the confusion in the thread initially.

I converted my own 1981 40 series which required trimming of the tranny tunnel hump which worked, but factory 5 speeds had their owned bumped tunnels. Also, the shift lever for the h55 split case would not work in the std 60/70 configuration in the factory hole (forward). I used a pzj75 transfer arm (gold arm) and with gentle bending of the shifter arm (black arm) it cam out in the right spot. I was not able to use the shift gate to prevent 2L entry so I had 5 positions, 2H-2L-N-4H-4L.

That being said, I would recommend to all that if you have a pre 1979 just use the factory set up for 60 or 70 series and move things back on the tunnel hump. If you have a post 1978 with under fuel tank, there is a shopping list of parts and mods to make these forward shifters work so be aware.

Has anyone asked toyota if they would remanufacture? The shifter wing was $26 before it went discontinued, they then offered it for $120 to reman it about 2007.

 

[Living in the Past]

What part store where you using.

Not a site I'm buying parts off. It's not in English. I only use it to find part numbers and research if part numbers are same or different over years and different cruisers. Used it to research if it's possible to switch a single direct split case PTO to a two direction split case PTO using parts from a earlier one piece PTO. Before taking the PTOs apart I knew which parts would fit and which needed to be modified or found new or used.

I picked up five NOS top plates housings in 2002 from a mine in canada and built them into 40 series from 60 series donors. The upper rod is different with shifter receiver "wing" is a single piece in 40 series and two castings in a 60/70 series. I was able to buy the factory rods and single shifter-wing casting and swap out the rods and freeze plugs to make new complete top plate (sold for under $400 as new w top plate core from -60450 tranny). Internally the other rods are identical. hope that helps with all the confusion in the thread initially.

I converted my own 1981 40 series which required trimming of the tranny tunnel hump which worked, but factory 5 speeds had their owned bumped tunnels. Also, the shift lever for the h55 split case would not work in the std 60/70 configuration in the factory hole (forward). I used a pzj75 transfer arm (gold arm) and with gentle bending of the shifter arm (black arm) it cam out in the right spot. I was not able to use the shift gate to prevent 2L entry so I had 5 positions, 2H-2L-N-4H-4L.

That being said, I would recommend to all that if you have a pre 1979 just use the factory set up for 60 or 70 series and move things back on the tunnel hump. If you have a post 1978 with under fuel tank, there is a shopping list of parts and mods to make these forward shifters work so be aware.

Has anyone asked toyota if they would remanufacture? The shifter wing was $26 before it went discontinued, they then offered it for $120 to reman it about 2007.

When you say five speed had it own transmission hump are your referring the whole hump or just the inspection cover? I have a 84 cover from 4X series with a four speed. It raised for a five speed. The outline is also different which makes me wonder if the rest of the hump was different too. Do you know where the transmission hit the hump? Is it possible instead of a 2F four speed bell housing a 3F would work better? From what I understand it clocks the transmission down a little on the right side.

Rick if someone had a working 4X top cover could you in simple terms what is need on the 79+ FJ40 to install a five speed? I have a few late model axles with the hand brake. I'm guessing even if you have the split case hand brake there might be clearance issues and shortening the length of the rear driveline is not a good option. Was the gas tank clearance a problem? Other drive length changes and T shifter modifications what else needs to be done?

 

[Fast Eddy]

Yes casting then machining and heat treatment to T6

A lot of errors that might be present in the former could be made up for in the latter. That substantially reduces the tooling risk. Then half of tooling errors could be fixed by machining the tools themselves. I'm talking myself into it.

 

[Poser]

40 series that had the H55 installed in them from the factory had a different floor stamping; it was raised up higher than the H41/2 trans tunnels.

I have a 1984 BJ42 at the shop and the tunnel is not the same as my 12/82 40 series.

 

[Splangy]

I would be in for one once they're confirmed to be functional and of good quality.

LITP, I had no problem installing a 5 speed with 40 series cover in my 1981 FJ40 with no modifications other than to the transfer case shifter. A little heat was all it took to bend it to the right place to fit the factory hump cover. It's just a little shorter now. Getting the transmission out someday may pose a bit of difficulty as there's not much room in front of the crossmember tube. I installed the engine and trans as one piece.

 

[peteinjp]

I agree that a functioning video would sway me towards funding. But if the project isn't funded the pledges are returned correct? If so the only risk of pledging is getting a sub par part. The video would take care of a lot of those concerns.

Pete