Builds My New Project (1 Viewer)

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Have I said nothing is ever easy before? I contemplated AC line routing for a week before I decided the best routing was through the tubular side of the dog house. I wish I had done this way earlier in the build because trying to cut holes with a die grinder when you have little access room wasn't much fun. I'm happy with the result but it was painstakingly slow going, especially on the inner wall where you can't see.

I also had to cut out part of the inner fender to allow access to the AC charge ports. Little room for a cutoff wheel or saws all with shock tower welded in place and a big V8 on the other side.

Oh well, it was quality garage time on a cool Sunday afternoon. Next up, evac the system and charge.

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Evacuated the system and charged the AC. I'm officially done installing it.
 
Have I said nothing is ever easy before? I contemplated AC line routing for a week before I decided the best routing was through the tubular side of the dog house. I wish I had done this way earlier in the build because trying to cut holes with a die grinder when you have little access room wasn't much fun. I'm happy with the result but it was painstakingly slow going, especially on the inner wall where you can't see.

I also had to cut out part of the inner fender to allow access to the AC charge ports. Little room for a cutoff wheel or saws all with shock tower welded in place and a big V8 on the other side.

Oh well, it was quality garage time on a cool Sunday afternoon. Next up, evac the system and charge.

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What condensor did you go with?
Looks like a good fit, eh?
 
Yeah it was a great fit. I could have mounted it a bit more to the driver's side and run hoses under it and between the condenser and the radiator but I would be worried about hose rubbing and eventual short life. I really didn't want to go through the side of the dog house but in the end it's the best routing. It was work but it really fit well. I'm really happy with the unit so far.

Below is a list of all items on my order: I also bought an AC hydraulic crimper tool from eBay for less than $140. Free loaner tool rental from Orielly's for the Evac pump and gauges.

1-1091
STREET ROD COOLER III ELITE (MUST INCLUDE CONTROLS)
685.00

16-2134
CONTROLS, BILLET ROTARY ELITE SERIES-SATIN (USE ONLY 1-1091)
155.00

2-1011
UNDER DASH LOUVER BEZEL, ASSEMBLY 2 ' ADAPTOR
4 x 12.50
50.00

2-1050
DEFROST, DIFFUSER 6 1/2' WIDE 2' HA
2x17.50
35.00

13-5015
UNIVERSAL HOSE KIT | 6" RECEIVER-DRIER | BINARY SWITCH
200.00

11-1122
CONDENSER, 14 X 18, PARALLEL FLOW
139.00

14-2501
BILLET BULKHEAD, QUAD A/C 90 / HEAT 45, 3X3
49.95

14-1101
FIO #10-12 45 DEG BARB FITTING
2x9.90
19.80

SUBTOTAL
1,333.75
 
Nothing is ever easy.

I had a knock sensor code pop up this weekend so after a little research I learned torque plays a potential part in sensitivity. I didn't remember using a torque wrench so i decided to pull the intake and just double check so I can rule out the simple things.

I put a socket on to spin one of them out and it spun in its housing. They are crimped together. I bet that suggests it was over torqued to begin with. I couldn't get anything to improve things, so I decided to stick my welder in the hole. That did the trick. I need to order another.

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Man, you got me really thinking I should tear mine down and replace the sensors. My motor has a tad over 100,000 miles on it, but I'd like to replace any future problems before we attempt the great north. I've read where some guys silicone around the rubber seal so water doesn't get in the hole. It looks like that's what happened to your one sensor, any thoughts?
 
Man, you got me really thinking I should tear mine down and replace the sensors. My motor has a tad over 100,000 miles on it, but I'd like to replace any future problems before we attempt the great north. I've read where some guys silicone around the rubber seal so water doesn't get in the hole. It looks like that's what happened to your one sensor, any thoughts?
I'm not sure I would do anything until a code pops up. Even if it does, the motor still runs albeit with retarded timing. You won't be stranded and can still get down the road.

After replacing mine and getting codes p0327 and p0332, it got me reading internet posts. There are lots of guys who replaced sensors multiple times and still get codes. I did and it had me bothered. I never found a specific fix. Lots of stories about new sensors failing.

There isn't a good definitive test for a knock sensor unless you have a scope that can display an AC voltage sign wave. (I don't have one). Ohm testing is a first step but after that it seems like a crap shoot to test one.

There is a service bulletin about using RTV to divert water. Mine was definitely a water victim.

In just ordered two new ones. I'm not sure if the ones I installed were defective or potentially just over torqued, or something else.

I guess Ill find out.

With the risk of going through all the work to replace them and have a defective new sensor, I'd wait until one fails.
 
#ComputersAreForNavigatingNotEngines
Yep. There are days when I think my carburetor engine was something I could understand and fix. This computer crap complicates things to the point I can't fix it myself (Even though I have a computer science degree).
 
So I bought a 3-way 12v solenoid to electronically shift my vacuum 4WD. I learned something in the process. The solenoid won't work just by itself because I learned the Toyota valve exhausts the vacuum in the process of diverting between the two shifter inputs. The solenoid the vacuum was diverted to the correct vacuum line but without releasing the other line the shift diaphragm wouldn't move because both inputs to the shifter were holding vacuum.

So to really make it work you'll need 3 solenoid valves and probably a relay or two. You'll need the two addition valves to open to exhaust vacuum on the line your not routing through.

The story does have a happy ending though. I got the stock FD lever adjusted to work.

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Got to give you credit for digging into something and learning how it works. With my kind of luck the vacuum shift would screw up when I needed it the most.
 
I recall my old LC mentor hassling with this issue on his FJ62. He was a man of limited means at that time, and his fix consisted of popping the hood and swapping vacuum lines around to engage and disengage the actuator. Looks like you are on your way to making the system functional with non-OEM parts which I think is going to be of great interest to the vacuum shift crowd.
 
Third time is a charm!

We took a drive yesterday morning. The knock sensor triggered the check engine light (P0327). This was the second set of sensors in one months. Frustrated!

Dug into it again. I'm getting good at removing the Intake manifold.🤪. It's just another 2.5 hours in the garage.

Everyone says; be sure to get the AC-Delco sensors. Pay extra and they are faulty. 3 of 4 bench tested faulty with an ohm meter. Arghhh!

This time I decided to take a chance on the Autozone brand with lifetime warranty. I put 175 miles on today after they were installed and no warning light. It's about friggin time! Hopefully I didn't jinx things with that.
 
Damn, I was thinking of replacing mine with @100, 000 miles on them, but not so sure now. Something doesn't seem right that 3 out 4 were bad. Sorry you're having those type of problems, too many other things to do to keep changing sensors.
 
Actually just got home from a drive with my wife. Drove for some top notch Oklahoma BBQ and then put in another 100 miles on along the local highways. All is good. No knock sensor light and just a good shake down cruise. The dog even enjoyed the ride stretched out on the back seat.

I'm trying now to decide if it's roadworthy for a trip west on I-40. I'm selling the house and going to retire in Durango. It's about 750 miles and it's a debate on driving it or trailering it. I really didn't like trailering my FJ40 out there. I've only put 800 miles on since getting it tagged. Just a little nervous about a big road trip.

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