bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Go for it 
Builds My New Project (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter NikP
- Start date
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Third time is a charm!
We took a drive yesterday morning. The knock sensor triggered the check engine light (P0327). This was the second set of sensors in one months. Frustrated!
Dug into it again. I'm getting good at removing the Intake manifold.. It's just another 2.5 hours in the garage.
Everyone says; be sure to get the AC-Delco sensors. Pay extra and they are faulty. 3 of 4 bench tested faulty with an ohm meter. Arghhh!
This time I decided to take a chance on the Autozone brand with lifetime warranty. I put 175 miles on today after they were installed and no warning light. It's about friggin time! Hopefully I didn't jinx things with that.
Any warranty? Are you sure you got genuine GM parts? eBay has lots of counterfeit stuff...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Now I am hungry! Those look oh-so delicious...
- Thread starter
- #604
All ordered via Amazon so last set credited okay. First set was a victim of Thanksgiving and more than 30 days passed so the return date expired.
They were all labeled genuine AC Delco packaging. All good, just frustrating to have to do it three times.
- Thread starter
- #605
It's @scrapdaddy 's fault. I had been researching master cylinder changes from my 1 1/8 bore and unsure what improvement I would get with a 1 inch bore. My braking really sucks even with the 60 axle components. A 7/8 bore is hard to find that will bolt to my booster. Then scrapdaddy opened a door for hydroboost. I hadn't explored it but it seems like a great option since I have GM components at the power steering pump. I'm in! I picked up a $60 booster at the Pull-a-Part from a '04 Tahoe. Only vehicle in the yard with a hydraulic boost.
Rebuild kit seems likely and should bolt to my existing master. Then its about hoses and an oil cooler. I'm wondering if a secondary reservoir could replace a cooler. More volume so it would circulate less and stay cooler. Thoughts?
Rebuild kit seems likely and should bolt to my existing master. Then its about hoses and an oil cooler. I'm wondering if a secondary reservoir could replace a cooler. More volume so it would circulate less and stay cooler. Thoughts?
Do you have a way to plumb in a second reservoir, seems like it would be easier to use a small cooler. An auto. transmission cooler works great and easy to mount somewhere.
That hydroboost unit new is @ $500.
That hydroboost unit new is @ $500.
- Thread starter
- #607
I hadn't studied it much but for $25-30, a oil cooler makes sense.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #609
Gotta question.
What gas caps are people using? Everytime I fill up I have gasoline running down the side of my pig by the time I get back home.
I’m curious if it’s the cap or it it’s being caused by the return gas line I installed for my 5.3L.
It’s a new cap from CruiserCorp.
What gas caps are people using? Everytime I fill up I have gasoline running down the side of my pig by the time I get back home.
I’m curious if it’s the cap or it it’s being caused by the return gas line I installed for my 5.3L.
It’s a new cap from CruiserCorp.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Could be the pump and not your Pig 
. Happens to me on both my Fords and the iggy. Pull the nozzle out a little before pumping 
. Happens to me on both my Fords and the iggy. Pull the nozzle out a little before pumping 
RUSH55
SILVER Star
I did a fix years back that involved grafting the upper threaded section of a later model truck’s fill tube to the lower LC section of fill tube to make use of newer, more common, o-ring sealed gas caps. They vent air in but not out, so the venting of your fuel tank has to be worked out. Does a great job of keeping the fuel in the tank.
The other option is to get a factory style cap and gasket from Cruiser Outfitters.
The other option is to get a factory style cap and gasket from Cruiser Outfitters.
- Thread starter
- #612
Tell me more about what’s special about the Cuiser Outfitter cap and gasket. I assumed my cap from CruiserCorps was factory style.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Sorry. Didn’t see that last line there in the previous post.
Last edited:
Nik,
Anything different with your fuel vents, tank , etc from when it was stock. This just start since the motor swap? Trying to think what would cause it. Maybe it's getting over filled and the vent line can't handle the pressure until the level goes down a tad, just spit balling.
Anything different with your fuel vents, tank , etc from when it was stock. This just start since the motor swap? Trying to think what would cause it. Maybe it's getting over filled and the vent line can't handle the pressure until the level goes down a tad, just spit balling.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
To start over, I can’t recall seeing a 55 that didn’t leak gas. With a perfect seat and a fresh cap and gasket, the OEM setup *might* not leak during normal, around town driving. It can almost be guaranteed to leak with a full tank while out wheeling and side-hilling on a trail.
How is your tank vented?
fj55-100
SILVER Star
I have done the same as rush in 2000 ,grafting in a newer neck . no leaks at all
- Thread starter
- #618
I have no knowledge of how a normal 55 functions since I didn’t have a running version and immediately went to work swapping in my 5.3.
It’s a stock tank and the only thing I did when I had the tank cleaned was to weld an AN fitting on the bottom to connect to my fuel pump and another AN fitting on the top side for the return line. (And plug the standard carb line)
I assume the venting is through the cap because this model has no vapor recovery plumbing and all the associated stuff.
Today I drove from Oklahoma to Colorado and each time pumped until the auto shut off triggered. Each stop I immediately got on the freeway. I didn’t notice any gas dribble down the side so I’m thinking it’s associated with sloshing when cornering etc. (which didn’t really happen today).
Last night before I left I wiped the cap gasket down while I was inspecting it and also wiped down the mating surface on the 55. (It can’t be that easy). I’ll have to see what happens next time around town.
It’s a stock tank and the only thing I did when I had the tank cleaned was to weld an AN fitting on the bottom to connect to my fuel pump and another AN fitting on the top side for the return line. (And plug the standard carb line)
I assume the venting is through the cap because this model has no vapor recovery plumbing and all the associated stuff.
Today I drove from Oklahoma to Colorado and each time pumped until the auto shut off triggered. Each stop I immediately got on the freeway. I didn’t notice any gas dribble down the side so I’m thinking it’s associated with sloshing when cornering etc. (which didn’t really happen today).
Last night before I left I wiped the cap gasket down while I was inspecting it and also wiped down the mating surface on the 55. (It can’t be that easy). I’ll have to see what happens next time around town.
- Thread starter
- #619
She made it home. 750 miles just like it was meant to drive 75 mph.
I drill a hole in my caps. Let vapor and pressure go out the cap. Sometimes it looks like a potential fire hazard but it keeps this and major pressure problems at bay
