Neat Build! My favorite parts is the PTO winch but I may be a little biased. Keep the pics coming.
Builds My Mexican 1965 FJ40V Build Thread
- Thread starter MexicanNewby
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- Thread starter
- #182
Electrical wiring has begun. Main harness is looking fine, courtesy of Sr. Raúl. What a guy.
This is the engine bay wiring:
And this is the one that goes to the back lights:
A few things, like the brake light switch below, are going to be old Datsun parts.
This is the engine bay wiring:
And this is the one that goes to the back lights:
A few things, like the brake light switch below, are going to be old Datsun parts.
- Thread starter
- #183
I'm having two more problems: My hood is sticking out 1/4 inch form the bib.
Distance between tub and hood is 3/4 inch on the sides and nearly 1/2" on the top. I don't understand, holes weren't worn out, installed it as it was and it fits perfectly at the hinges. Is this space too large between tub and hood?
Distance between tub and hood is 3/4 inch on the sides and nearly 1/2" on the top. I don't understand, holes weren't worn out, installed it as it was and it fits perfectly at the hinges. Is this space too large between tub and hood?
- Thread starter
- #184
Second problem.
Sitting in front of the wheel feels "off" and I believe because my seats aren't perfectly perpendicular to the frame.
Passenger seat is 14" from the door frame at the front, driver's side is nearly 16". So it is definitely in diagonal. Again, I don't believe this is normal. Id did try to aligns the seats when measuring.
Sitting in front of the wheel feels "off" and I believe because my seats aren't perfectly perpendicular to the frame.
Passenger seat is 14" from the door frame at the front, driver's side is nearly 16". So it is definitely in diagonal. Again, I don't believe this is normal. Id did try to aligns the seats when measuring.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
A little confused on your seat “issue” as the passenger seat is fixed and the driver’s seat is adjustable. It can easily move forward 2 inches.
Body alignment is fun (tongue in cheek). You’ll probably going to have to loosen all the way to the body mounts and work from there. A guess given what you showed - the cab front needs to be higher and/or the bib needs to be lower to close that gap at the hood sides. Either or both will also pull the hood front back over the bib.
Body alignment is fun (tongue in cheek). You’ll probably going to have to loosen all the way to the body mounts and work from there. A guess given what you showed - the cab front needs to be higher and/or the bib needs to be lower to close that gap at the hood sides. Either or both will also pull the hood front back over the bib.
- Thread starter
- #186
Despite having crooked bits, I think she's the most beautiful gal in my eyes.
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Que padre !
Very nice congrats
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The seats were designed with an offset; no worries there.
as @middlecalf said, you’re going to have to loosen everything up and start over on the alignment.
as @middlecalf said, you’re going to have to loosen everything up and start over on the alignment.
- Thread starter
- #189
Roger that. Thank you.
- Thread starter
- #190
Thanks. Re the seat. If you're sitting straight on the driver's seat, you're not facing the steering wheel directly, more like pointing towards the front left corner of the hood.
I will follow yours and Mark's advise regarding the alignment. Thank you.
- Thread starter
- #191
Update time folks!
First of all, I want to recognize this genius of a madman, he is obsessive and profoundly dedicated, he is Sr. Raul's son, Raúl Jr.
He re did my fuse board and completely redid it.
You can see the before and after of the connections and the bakelite board:
First of all, I want to recognize this genius of a madman, he is obsessive and profoundly dedicated, he is Sr. Raul's son, Raúl Jr.
He re did my fuse board and completely redid it.
You can see the before and after of the connections and the bakelite board:
- Thread starter
- #192
Headlights and parking lights were also restored:
They were sandblasted and then dropped in acid to protect them from rusting again.
I decided to use the original rubbers.
They were sandblasted and then dropped in acid to protect them from rusting again.
I decided to use the original rubbers.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #193
The headlight buckets also came out pretty sweet:
Koito "MADE IN JAPAN" is straight up Cruiser Porn
Original Rubber! It's still in decent shape, kept them on.
Koito "MADE IN JAPAN" is straight up Cruiser Porn
Original Rubber! It's still in decent shape, kept them on.
- Thread starter
- #194
Then the rings for the headlight, liking the outcome:
- Thread starter
- #195
I also spent the day restoring the knobs with a process I learnt from Raul Jr.
You sand the knob with 600 grain, then 1200 grain, wet sandpaper.
This has to be very thorough, knob and stem. These I did on the dashboard as they have already been connected.
The other knobs for Switches were done mounted off.
Then the part is polished first with simple polish and then car wax.
You can see them polished here:
Then you pass white out on them and then, after 30-40 seconds you rub your finger to remove the white out on the surface, you repeat this process until the cavity is filled and the letters complete.
I also did the vent ones but they are chipped. I am thinking of options to restore them, if I decide to do so.
You sand the knob with 600 grain, then 1200 grain, wet sandpaper.
This has to be very thorough, knob and stem. These I did on the dashboard as they have already been connected.
The other knobs for Switches were done mounted off.
Then the part is polished first with simple polish and then car wax.
You can see them polished here:
Then you pass white out on them and then, after 30-40 seconds you rub your finger to remove the white out on the surface, you repeat this process until the cavity is filled and the letters complete.
I also did the vent ones but they are chipped. I am thinking of options to restore them, if I decide to do so.
- Thread starter
- #196
The light switch too was first sanded, polished and then painted, smudged and then repainted...
Then you cover in white out...
Remove white out by rubbing it with your thumb, then nails around the letters...
Almost four layers after....
The polish and wax again and... voilá:
Then you cover in white out...
Remove white out by rubbing it with your thumb, then nails around the letters...
Almost four layers after....
The polish and wax again and... voilá:
- Thread starter
- #197
On the electrical:
Wiring harness is nearly done. I hit a couple of bumps. First was that the package were my regulator, horn relay and other parts were, was lost. Second was that the flasher relay I bought was a dud, Sr. Raúl is going to gut it and give it new insides, ie. stuff a modern relay inside. Third is the heaviest as it is somewhat my fault. The front fenders were sent to the bodyshop, I was busy getting other stuff loaded, like the doors, etc. that I didn't notice the horns were still mounted. Long story short: The elephant horns are missing.
So, what I've decided is that I will install non-OEM electricals (Horn Relay, Regulator, Flasher Relay and horns) where inevitable but leave the provisions to switch to OEM as son as the parts are procured.
I also have a few questions:
What do each of the three positions of the light switch do.
Do the parking lights also flash with the blinkers are engaged?
Are Parking Lights turned on whilst Head Lights are switched on as well?
Cheers friends!
Wiring harness is nearly done. I hit a couple of bumps. First was that the package were my regulator, horn relay and other parts were, was lost. Second was that the flasher relay I bought was a dud, Sr. Raúl is going to gut it and give it new insides, ie. stuff a modern relay inside. Third is the heaviest as it is somewhat my fault. The front fenders were sent to the bodyshop, I was busy getting other stuff loaded, like the doors, etc. that I didn't notice the horns were still mounted. Long story short: The elephant horns are missing.
So, what I've decided is that I will install non-OEM electricals (Horn Relay, Regulator, Flasher Relay and horns) where inevitable but leave the provisions to switch to OEM as son as the parts are procured.
I also have a few questions:
What do each of the three positions of the light switch do.
Do the parking lights also flash with the blinkers are engaged?
Are Parking Lights turned on whilst Head Lights are switched on as well?
Cheers friends!
- Thread starter
- #198
Also, I turned 40 last week and hiked up Tammany Mt. in NJ with my kids to celebrate, it was magical, finally got to know a tiny part of the Appalachians.
What do each of the three positions of the light switch do.
Do the parking lights also flash with the blinkers are engaged?
Are Parking Lights turned on whilst Head Lights are switched on as well?
The 3 positions should be 'off', 'parking lights only', and 'headlights and rear lights only'. On my '65, the parking lights went out when the headlights were turned on. The correct owners manual will show you all the functions.
Do the parking lights also flash with the blinkers are engaged?
Are Parking Lights turned on whilst Head Lights are switched on as well?
The 3 positions should be 'off', 'parking lights only', and 'headlights and rear lights only'. On my '65, the parking lights went out when the headlights were turned on. The correct owners manual will show you all the functions.
- Thread starter
- #200
Thank you! Just found precisely that. What does the manual mean by "Pilot Meter" light?
