Build My Mexican 1965 FJ40V Build Thread

[MexicanNewby]

If you bring the 40 to the states...you definitely need to swing by the Denver area in CO!

It hugely depends on the port of entry!
If it easier through TJ/SD, you got yourself a visitor my friend!
Also, it is possible that I drive another one from the West Coast to the East coast in the next year or so...

 

[FJ404345]

Has anybody suffered from PRD (Post Restorum Depression)?

I feel like I am going to start getting on a funk now that my project is almost over...

I now understand the endless tinkering many folks here mention.

What's next? I am debating whether I should keep it in Mx or bring up to the U.S.. Maybe even drive it from Tx to NJ once the import has been completed.

Please be aware as recent studies show that PRD if not treated or recognised early can easely involve in MVS (Multple Vehicle Syndrome)

 

[Broski]

It hugely depends on the port of entry!
If it easier through TJ/SD, you got yourself a visitor my friend!
Also, it is possible that I drive another one from the West Coast to the East coast in the next year or so...

If you make the trip you will have Cruiser Heads all along the way to stay with

 

[MexicanNewby]

If you make the trip you will have Cruiser Heads all along the way to stay with

Cheers man!

 

[MexicanNewby]

Please be aware as recent studies show that PRD if not treated or recognised early can easely involve in MVS (Multple Vehicle Syndrome)

What's the treatment doc?

 

[MexicanNewby]

After almost never seeing FJ40's around here, I met @lemecdemeure while taking a close look at his classy FJ40! It is truly amazing.

I also saw another one on the way home. I really need to get mine stateside!

 

[lemecdemeure]

Great meeting you @MexicanNewby and awesome build story! Still reading...

My build story is not so exciting. A couple emails, a flight to FJ.CO HQ in Miami for a test drive, and a few weeks later took delivery. They shared some great videos and photos of the build, though.

I was fortunate to land one of the original FJ.CO classic builds, their demo. #fjcogreendemo on insta. They do a really nice job for sure. FJ.CO have since transitioned to restomod modern powertrain lux "G40-series" models, which are also quite nice.

 

[MexicanNewby]

Haloween horror was finding out water pump's bust, getting one rebuilt in México but at least I got my new cologne...

 

[MexicanNewby]

Water pump failed so Manuel came and helped me remove it....turns out my radiator was shot to bits so had to repair that as well....

 

[MexicanNewby]

Went to a repair shop here in Mexico City, they remanufactured the whole radiator in two days to spec measurements. All brass and copper valves...amazing work.


We'll see..I promise I'll keep you posted.

 

[MexicanNewby]

Now comes the installation of the new pump which is later years and non OEM, we work with what we have not with what we want, which is going to be pressed in order to align with the crankshaft pulley. Alternativley, I also have a later pump pulley for two bands and this may give us a gain on the distance in aligning pulleys if parting from the second grove.

 

[MexicanNewby]

A quick update on small repairs department:

My BiFold Door rollers were rebuilt and the repair was just not good enough: they came off too easily.

I had a friend look at them and propose a repair and boy did he deliver on a solution.

This was the original solution which came off fairly easily.

The solution was to drill into the piece itself.

We inserted a steel rod into the new drilled hole.

We then welded the rod onto place, cut off the excess rod and will sand it too.

The roller is also properly welded to the rod.

Will update once they are sanded and installed!


Cheers friends.

 

[MexicanNewby]

And, here's the final product.

Let's hope they hold better!

 

[MexicanNewby]

Hello friends,

I am preparing my 40 to come stateside to NJ.
I am trying to fix all the little things before with the rationale it'll be cheaper than New Jersey.

Things to do:

- Instruments died except Amp meter. Get those fixed and find cause.

- There's a small leak on the front knuckle, fix that.

- Paint touch up in areas that are now visibly lacking.

- Fix carb, AISAN SD40, AGAIN, going with this carb rebuild kit from Cruiser Cult, should work, no? Any other suggestions? This carb has been a pain, it is over filling, image below, and drowning the engine when idling.

- Replace fuel pump, for OEM. Will this one from @Racer65 fit my 1F?

If anyone can chip in with knowledge, I'd very much appreciate it.

 

[largeone]

Do you still have the “ball and claw” CV with the brass bushing in the end of the axle tube, to keep the 90w inside?

 

[MexicanNewby]

Do you still have the “ball and claw” CV with the brass bushing in the end of the axle tube, to keep the 90w inside?

I believe so. Yes.

 

[largeone]

I only ask because the fix for leaking diff oil on the old style axles is not as simple as changing out an axle seal. The axle rides in a brass bushing at the end of the axle tube. They don't seal perfectly, but if you are getting this much oil past the brass bushing, it can be an issue with the drum brakes staying oiled up. I went through this on one side of my '67.

 

[MexicanNewby]

I only ask because the fix for leaking diff oil on the old style axles is not as simple as changing out an axle seal. The axle rides in a brass bushing at the end of the axle tube. They don't seal perfectly, but if you are getting this much oil past the brass bushing, it can be an issue with the drum brakes staying oiled up. I went through this on one side of my '67.

Thanks Paul.

What's the solution? Replace the brass bushing?

Cheers man!

J

 

[largeone]

Yes, but I had to machine mine to the proper ID and OD. The aftermarket one I purchased was too tight to press into my axle tube, and then, once pressed into the axle, I also had to ream the inside ID a few thousandths to get a fit that would allow the axle to turn. It was a pain, but that side that used to leak has been dry for many years now....so worth the pain, I guess

 

[MexicanNewby]

Yes, but I had to machine mine to the proper ID and OD. The aftermarket one I purchased was too tight to press into my axle tube, and then, once pressed into the axle, I also had to ream the inside ID a few thousandths to get a fit that would allow the axle to turn. It was a pain, but that side that used to leak has been dry for many years now....so worth the pain, I guess

It's the little things Paul, the little things.
Thanks for the heads up! Very much appreciated.