Builds My 1978 Nut and Bolt Frame Off Restoration

[MScruiser]

If you decide you want to rebuild let me know. I have two rebuild kits from cruiser outfitters that I ordered and then decided to go all new cylinders. I can send a rebuild kit to ya for just shipping (6 bucks for a USPS small flat rate). Depending which one it is I might have a rebuilt one too (I rebuilt two then found the other two were no good)
otherwise its looking great!

Ha. It's funny you should say that. I too ordered 4 brand new cylinders. Decided not to bother rebuilding. I really appreciate your offer though!

@upperblack , I went with the ones recommended by Cruiser Outfitters on their website. Anti-inversion with greasible pins.

 

[MScruiser]

Ok guys, I could really use some help here; it's time for me to route my rear wiring harness, and I did not take enough pictures when I was disassembling it. I know generally where the loom runs, but I do not know the exact route. Also, I have these four metal clips that I need to know the correct locations of, and I also remember there being several plastic tie downs along the frame rail. Does anyone have any pictures of the correct locations of the loom, clips, and tie downs?

 

[MScruiser]

From looking at my pics, I am fairly certain these two clips are correctly positioned.

I need to figure out where the other two go now. Also, can someone confirm that the loom goes over the rear crossmember (pictured above)?

 

[thecrazygreek]

I know one goes center of rear cross member.

 

[MScruiser]

Can someone look at their Cruiser, and tell me if the loom is supposed to go over this rear bumper gusset (as pictured), or does it go below?

 

[MScruiser]

Another hard fuel line refresh.

 

[MScruiser]

Got a late model lower heater assembly.

Disassembled

Blasted, powdercoated, and reassembled. New foam and stainless hardware. Blasted and zinc coated spring. Core was cleaned out with hot water and simple green, blasted, and leak tested.

 

[MScruiser]

Decided to remove shift lever and powdercoat.

Before

Preheating

After

Crappy pic, but blasted and powdercoated the transfer case lever too.

 

[davegonz]

Andrew, you need to slow down. You're making us all look bad

I'm going to be on the lookout for a used double wall oven now!

 

[MScruiser]

Things are about to get REAL slow over here. I'm running low on dough, and its body/paint time.

 

[davegonz]

Ask @jrob about building a paint booth in the garage

 

[MScruiser]

Oh, I've been to his garage, and have seen the booth.

I'd just hate to do a good restoration, only to screw up the paint by trying it myself!

 

[MScruiser]

Welding new captive nuts, extracting broken bolts, chasing threads, and grinding welds.

 

[MScruiser]

After 1 application of chemical stripper, followed by a powerwash. Good thing so far, is no "surprises" underneath the undercoating. Actually, there is beautiful paint hiding underneath; I think the coating was applied on top of fresh paint.

I think 1-2 more coats of stripper ought to do the trick.

Why don't I just go ahead and blast it?

Though it will work, I have to go over the area about 3-4 times as long, so I'm wasting 3-4 tines as much media.

More media = more expensive, more time consumption, and bigger mess.

Taking off as much undercoating as I can with the chemical stripper is optimal (and fairly easy). Just apply, wait 15-20 minutes, then wash off.

Once the coating is off and all of the paint has been removed with the stripper, I'll go over the whole thing with the blaster to get the hard to reach areas, and make everything uniform.

Fun fact: I contacted the local mobile blaster company here in Jackson to get a quote (in case I wanted to get someone else to do the dirty work). The guy told me $1500-$2000.

Yikes.

 

[MScruiser]

Another treatment with chemical strip.

Before I blast, I'll need to make sure I'll have everything sorted out for the self etching epoxy primer. I'll do some research and figure out what kind of primer is best primer. I've been reading threads over at HotRodders, and the general consensus is that for Epoxy Primers, SPI is the winner, hands-down. Pricey stuff though. Supposedly much better than PPG, which is what I have always heard was the best. I'll probably need to buy a new gun too, because though I really like this little Harbor Freight gun, the nozzle orifice is too small for primers. Not to mention ill definately want a nicer gun when I start spraying the base coats and clear coats. Yep; I've decided against a single stage; I'm going with a basecoat clearcoat.

I'll now flip the truck right side up again, and get to work removing paint from the rest of the body, along with any other welding and grinding that needs to be done. Once the majority of the easy-to-reach stuff is off, I'll sandblast. I'll then hit the underside with epoxy primer, allow to dry, and then hit everything else with the primer. At that stage, I'll be able to start on filler and block/sanding.

 

[MScruiser]

More welding and grinding.

 

[MScruiser]

Been buzzing the panels with a polycarbonate sanding disk; I love this thing!

Outer panels are 95% done

Don't you love it when there is absolutely ZERO rust hiding underneath the paint?!

 

[joyRidaz]

Wow, amazing thread! Just read start to finish.

As for the HF gun, I read or watched(YouTube) somewhere that the little purple gun is a great candidate to turn into a primer-only gun by drilling out the tip a little bit to make it bigger. Might be worth a try for minimal risk/investment. I can't recall how much bigger the hole needs to be. I'll try to find a link for Ya.

Keep the momentum, thanks for the great contribution to the community!

I'll probably need to buy a new gun too, because though I really like this little Harbor Freight gun, the nozzle orifice is too small for primers. Not to mention ill definately want a nicer gun when I start spraying the base coats and clear coats. Yep; I've decided against a single stage; I'm going with a basecoat clearcoat....

 

[MScruiser]

Thanks, @joyRidaz .

I did buy a nice little gun from DeVilbliss yesterday. Comes with a 1.4, 1.6, and 1.8 nozzle. It should all but replace the HF gun.

I'd definitely be interested in a link if you can find one though.

 

[joyRidaz]

@MScruiser

heres a video that shows how to modify the HF purple HVLP gun for primer. Looks like he used a 5/64 drill bit to make the tip to be around 3mm for primer

Fast forward to 3:52