Most difficult Job on a 60 (1 Viewer)

[MarkBC]

I would just plan on cutting the shackle pins. Get yourself a MAP torch for burning the rubber out. I thought I was going to reuse the shackles and pins. LOL NOPE! They’re so rusted it’s crazy to see how bad they are when you pull them out.

The toughest thing is getting the axle at the right spot so that the springs don’t bind up. It’s a real chore to be honest and if I was much older I wouldn’t want to do the work myself. If I ever have to do it again I might pay someone else the big bucks. It sucks that much. I’d rather pull and stab the transmission with no help.

The nuts are in great shape, came off no prob. I put a bottle jack under the spring and lifted it to where I thought there was no net force on it. The nut side shackle plate slid off real easy. I pounded the upper bolt and it moved 1/4" but I don't have interest in pounding it all the way through since the lower bolt won't budge and it's harder to pound seeing that it's just hanging by the one outer shackle plate. I'll just cut the remaining shackle plate in half with the zip disc and that end of the spring will be loose (if needed, that shackle plate would be easy to fab again out of some steel plate, but I have OME replacements). The bolt on the front end of the spring also moves a bit but I'll just cut that one off both sides of the spring (I'd rather not damage the springs) and it will come right out. Then zip off the axle U bolts and when the spring is off, I'll be able to access the two remaining rivets on the rear hanger with a drill and remove it. Then I'll put it in the 20 ton press to get that remaining rubber out. So far, seems like 100x easier than the C channels, but it ain't done yet!

 

[GRpufnstuf]

apologies for joke answer -

Hardest job for me these days is putting the gas pump nozzle in the fill hole. prices are $5+ around here (I've seen over $6)

 

[cps432]

The nuts are in great shape, came off no prob. I put a bottle jack under the spring and lifted it to where I thought there was no net force on it. The nut side shackle plate slid off real easy. I pounded the upper bolt and it moved 1/4" but I don't have interest in pounding it all the way through since the lower bolt won't budge and it's harder to pound seeing that it's just hanging by the one outer shackle plate. I'll just cut the remaining shackle plate in half with the zip disc and that end of the spring will be loose (if needed, that shackle plate would be easy to fab again out of some steel plate, but I have OME replacements). The bolt on the front end of the spring also moves a bit but I'll just cut that one off both sides of the spring (I'd rather not damage the springs) and it will come right out. Then zip off the axle U bolts and when the spring is off, I'll be able to access the two remaining rivets on the rear hanger with a drill and remove it. Then I'll put it in the 20 ton press to get that remaining rubber out. So far, seems like 100x easier than the C channels, but it ain't done yet!

Sounds like a solid approach. My pins were fused together with the rubber via some of the worst rust I have ever seen and I grew up in Louisiana and Georgia…

I had one of those giant vise grips for pipes. I clamped the outside plate and used a bottle jack on the handle of the wrench to force the pin to twist. I could get them to twist and turn but they wouldn’t turn by hand and they wouldn’t move a millimeter outward. It was the most frustrating thing I’ve ever done on this vehicle and maybe ever. I ended up using a map torch and an M16 bayonet to carve out the rubber as it smoldered into dust. Even still it was a massive PITA and I’m pretty sure I took a year off my life breathing in the smoke.

I feel like I should clarify that the bushings in the frame side of the hangers was the biggest issue. Once the springs are off the truck it’s very easy to get the bushings out of them. Getting them to that point is a relentless battle. I was replacing my springs anyhow so it didn’t matter to get them cleaned up.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

I’ve used the torch method in the past and saw a post years ago on drilling holes through the shackle bushings. Have used that method since with great success. May be a bit more difficult when the pin is frozen but would seem like drilling would still work (after cutting away the shackle).

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Not the hardest job but I’d say doing a water pump on a 3FE vs a 2F really sucks. You have to remove way more sh** than doing a 2F.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Replacing the roof

And add to that doing a new headliner. Not rocket science but a true PITA to get it right. Couple extra paws make it much easier.

 

[cps432]

I’ve used the torch method in the past and saw a post years ago on drilling holes through the shackle bushings. Have used that method since with great success. May be a bit more difficult when the pin is frozen but would seem like drilling would still work (after cutting away the shackle).

I didn’t have a cut off tool at the time and didn’t want to spend more money on a new grinder. I wasn’t able to get the drill bit in the space. Flames burned it enough and I could get the bayonet in there enough to pry chunks out. I ended up buying a disc grinder to finish that job. Glad to never do it again.

 

[MarkBC]

Sounds like a solid approach. My pins were fused together with the rubber via some of the worst rust I have ever seen and I grew up in Louisiana and Georgia…

I had one of those giant vise grips for pipes. I clamped the outside plate and used a bottle jack on the handle of the wrench to force the pin to twist. I could get them to twist and turn but they wouldn’t turn by hand and they wouldn’t move a millimeter outward. It was the most frustrating thing I’ve ever done on this vehicle and maybe ever. I ended up using a map torch and an M16 bayonet to carve out the rubber as it smoldered into dust. Even still it was a massive PITA and I’m pretty sure I took a year off my life breathing in the smoke.

I feel like I should clarify that the bushings in the frame side of the hangers was the biggest issue. Once the springs are off the truck it’s very easy to get the bushings out of them. Getting them to that point is a relentless battle. I was replacing my springs anyhow so it didn’t matter to get them cleaned up.

Interesting, I just took a big 5" cutting disc and zipped off either side of the forward pin. Then zipped off the rear shackle plate, then the two Ubolts and the spring fell right off (with several wood blocks and bottle jacks under everything for safety). Quite a simple job with a grinder and zip disc. Now I realize that the spring locator for the OME pack is different than the original one. Cruiser Outfitters talks about a "Center Bolt Spacer". So now I have to get those before I can put the new pack on... I see some cheaper aftermarket ones here and original OME here, I wonder if anyone has an opinion on which is best. Since I am in Canada it will take extra time, I wonder if there's some other way of getting a simple 1/2" x 1" metal donut.

What are the CBS01 (Center Bolt Spacers) for in your 60 Series Suspension Kits?

Late model FJ60's and all FJ62's came from the factory with a rubber/steel spring isolator assembly that cupped the rear leaf spring between the spring pack and the axle housing. This was done to remove slight road vibrations with the stock springs. This setup is not used when installing an Old Man Emu suspension setup and thus is removed all together. If equipped, the spring center pin holes on the axle's spring perch will have an inside dimension of approximately 1", however the new springs (and old springs too) have a pin outside diameter of approximately 1/2". This gap was taken up by the old spring isolator. By using the center bolt spacers (1/2" tall piece of tube with a 1/2" ID and a 1" OD), that gap is eliminated and you can accurately position your axle.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Interesting, I just took a big 5" cutting disc and zipped off either side of the forward pin. Then zipped off the rear shackle plate, then the two Ubolts and the spring fell right off (with several wood blocks and bottle jacks under everything for safety). Quite a simple job with a grinder and zip disc. Now I realize that the spring locator for the OME pack is different than the original one. Cruiser Outfitters talks about a "Center Bolt Spacer". So now I have to get those before I can put the new pack on... I see some cheaper aftermarket ones here and original OME here, I wonder if anyone has an opinion on which is best. Since I am in Canada it will take extra time, I wonder if there's some other way of getting a simple 1/2" x 1" metal donut.

Best imo? Our new stainless steel ones.

Much less $ than the OME ones and stainless so they don't fuse to the axle housing or leaf spring pin like standard ones do.

Available to ship today, call to order: 801-563-1277 or order online here:

Center Bolt Spacer - Stainless Steel - Fits 6x Applications (CROUTSSCBS)

Center Bolt Spacer - Stainless Steel - Fits 6x/7x Applications (CROUTSSCBS)

cruiserteq.com

They are included complimentary in the suspension kits we offer along with sway components, hardware, etc.

 

[cps432]

Interesting, I just took a big 5" cutting disc and zipped off either side of the forward pin. Then zipped off the rear shackle plate, then the two Ubolts and the spring fell right off (with several wood blocks and bottle jacks under everything for safety). Quite a simple job with a grinder and zip disc. Now I realize that the spring locator for the OME pack is different than the original one. Cruiser Outfitters talks about a "Center Bolt Spacer". So now I have to get those before I can put the new pack on... I see some cheaper aftermarket ones here and original OME here, I wonder if anyone has an opinion on which is best. Since I am in Canada it will take extra time, I wonder if there's some other way of getting a simple 1/2" x 1" metal donut.

Kurt @cruiseroutfit has everything you need for land cruiser suspensions including information and knowledge. I’ve had chats with them when I ran into trouble installing new diffs. They were wonderful and determined to help me iron out the problems. I highly recommend giving them a call to get everything sorted.

If I had to do the suspension again I would follow your method and just cut everything off. Being it was my first time replacing suspension parts I was worried about getting too aggressive. Now I know….

 

[MarkBC]

Well I think I'll just reuse the old steel/rubber leaf clamps. They won't go around the entire leaf pack like the original since it has more leaves but still offer way more support than the simple spacer. And they are in good shape. Amirite?

Also I pressed the bolt pin out of the hanger and it was pristine. I dont think I'll even need to replace that rubber bushing with the OME yellow plastic ones. Everything fits perfectly. Not sure why all my connections are so clean, in a Canada truck even! Easiest job ever! Took 3 years to get the c channel off and half a day to get the suspension off.

Edit: I also tried to uplaod photos of the leaf clamp thing and the pristine hanger bushing but it didn't go through, but I think you get the idea.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Well I think I'll just reuse the old steel/rubber leaf clamps. They won't go around the entire leaf pack like the original since it has more leaves but still offer way more support than the simple spacer. And they are in good shape. Amirite?

Also I pressed the bolt pin out of the hanger and it was pristine. I dont think I'll even need to replace that rubber bushing with the OME yellow plastic ones. Everything fits perfectly. Not sure why all my connections are so clean, in a Canada truck even! Easiest job ever! Took 3 years to get the c channel off and half a day to get the suspension off.

Edit: I also tried to uplaod photos of the leaf clamp thing and the pristine hanger bushing but it didn't go through, but I think you get the idea.

View attachment 3435794

Not recommended without the correct OME u-bolt spacers meant to be used with the isolator and bracket. Otherwise as you tighten everything down, the rubber is taking all the clamping and will get damaged. This is exactly why they recommend either the center bolt spacer (which is much stronger than the rubber isolator/bracket) OR their u-bolt spacers that are made to use with the rubber isolator/bracket.

 

[MarkBC]

Not recommended without the correct OME u-bolt spacers meant to be used with the isolator and bracket. Otherwise as you tighten everything down, the rubber is taking all the clamping and will get damaged. This is exactly why they recommend either the center bolt spacer (which is much stronger than the rubber isolator/bracket) OR their u-bolt spacers that are made to use with the rubber isolator/bracket.

So should there be no rubber anywhere? Is it perch direct to leaf direct to axle perch, metal on metal?

Could I cut off the old locators and replace with the stainless donuts, that way I still have cushioning pads of rubber?

 

[Spook50]

Filling the gas tank.

 

[franklin40]

figuring out the bloody wiring and relays for the rear wiper!! it’s still got me stumped

 

[cruiseroutfit]

So should there be no rubber anywhere? Is it perch direct to leaf direct to axle perch, metal on metal?

View attachment 3435902

Could I cut off the old locators and replace with the stainless donuts, that way I still have cushioning pads of rubber?

Correct, no rubber UNLESS you are hell-bent on having it and then additional OME parts are needed to run them. Most late model 6x owners installing OME (or Dobinsons, TJM, etc) eliminate the rubber isolator/bracket and go to the solid setup with the center bolt spacer. The center bolt spacers from us are part of the Hardware Fitting Kit. If the parts came from Cruiser Outfitters, send the team at the shop a note with your invoice number and they'll get you some sent out free-of-charge. I'm assuming they did not come from us as they would have included a tech/install guide that covers all this same information at length. In that case, I'd buzz whomever sold you the springs to let them walk you through the procedure to run the isolator/bracket if you want it.

 

[MarkBC]

Correct, no rubber UNLESS you are hell-bent on having it and then additional OME parts are needed to run them. Most late model 6x owners installing OME (or Dobinsons, TJM, etc) eliminate the rubber isolator/bracket and go to the solid setup with the center bolt spacer. The center bolt spacers from us are part of the Hardware Fitting Kit. If the parts came from Cruiser Outfitters, send the team at the shop a note with your invoice number and they'll get you some sent out free-of-charge. I'm assuming they did not come from us as they would have included a tech/install guide that covers all this same information at length. In that case, I'd buzz whomever sold you the springs to let them walk you through the procedure to run the isolator/bracket if you want it.

OK I'll order some spacers, and any other goodies I think I might need / want. I got the springs form the local Cruiser shop last year. I figured shipping from Utah would be brutal.

 

[reddog90]

I've DIY'd a lot of work but by far the most frustrating thing I've done is spend ~5 months haggling with corporate and several different dealerships to have the 1991 fuel tank recall done in 2022.

 

[dbbowen]

I've DIY'd a lot of work but by far the most frustrating thing I've done is spend ~5 months haggling with corporate and several different dealerships to have the 1991 fuel tank recall done in 2022.

Thats crazy, i just went to the dealer and they did mine.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Removing OEM rubber bushings from the leaf springs and hangers after 30 years. I was very close to lighting the truck on fire and calling the insurance company.

Stole the words out of my mouth. I wrote up a for sale ad while I was mid-job on that.

After cutting the pin on either side of the frame side hanger, I used the method @CenTXFJ60 described: drill holes into the rubber, about 20 of them from each side m. After that you can pound a flathead screwdriver in there to get the rubber shards out. The remainder of the pin falls out after that. It was still the worst though - very rusty original suspension.