Rebuilding the carb is not that difficult. Get a kit from cruiser outfitters. On mine (actually a couple I’ve done), the mating surfaces weren’t flat, gaskets covering ports, etc.
For getting the surfaces flat, I had a 12”x12” 1/2” thick piece of steel and put some 220 grit (I think) sandpaper wrapped on it and just gentle back and forth until it was flat.
You may even have some luck just tightening all the screws. I usually find a few loose or finger tight around the carb top. I think all of them I’ve done, the screws that go up from the bottom into the carb body have been loose.
I keep thinking one day I should buy another one of these carbs and do a video or write up. But my luck I’ll get a good one out of the box!
The wire that was hooked to the solenoid was the wrong one. Its the tan colored wire that should have been hooked to the wire from the carb.for the fuel cut off solenoid.
I GO IT! @Skreddy You were right, It was the fuel cut solenoid. Hooked it up correctly and was able to tune the carb using lean drop method. The video by OTRAMM on YouTube is super helpful. Its running great now. Vacuum hovers right about 20 able to get the idle at 650. No hesitation when I give it throttle. Super fun to get it figured out. It seams like it may be running a little rich, but otherwise its great.
Update. Its been running pretty great. Had to replace the fuel filter, though. I think the truck has sat too much over the last decade and there is some rust in the tank. I'm hoping its not too bad but I guess we'll see if it plugs up another filter.
I've worked on a few little things like getting the wiper linkage back together so I have wipers. That was fun.
Next thing is the rear heater. It doesn't turn on. I took out the seat to try and diagnose why. I have power to one side of the connector but its got power wether the switch is on or off. Seams kinda weird. Is my fan motor shot or do I have some messed up wiring somewhere? Hmm
I diced to jump the wires cause I remembered someone saying something about these rig switching on ground? Is that the right way to say it? Any when I connect power and then ground the other side the fan turns on so my switch must not be making a ground when its switched on. Guess I need to chase the ground wire back to the switch. Ya?
On a side note I walked down the block to an Estate sale for a tinkering break and picked up another one of these for $10. Obviously didn't need it but apparently I can't have too many.
There was a tank recall on these. You can contact the dealer to see if yours has been done. If not, it’s not too hard to reseal the tank if it’s really bad inside.
I replaced the water pump and several radiator hoses after flushing and cleaning the system last weekend. Then drove it for couple days. All was going good. On the way home the other day, though, it overheated while on the freeway. It took me about a mile to find a good spot to pull off. The hose between the thermostat housing and the oil cooler right above the distributor had about a 3" long split in it and all the coolant had been pumped out. I had my wife come tow me home from the off ramp. I replaced the hose and refilled it with coolant. Now however, its been blowing coolant out of the overflow tank. I've just taken it out for a couple test drives, while trying to figure out what's happening. Thought it might be that I just had an air pocket, but this last drive, after about a 5 minutes, it really started spewing coolant out. There's no coolant in the oil, so that's good, but I'm pretty sure I need to pull the head and replace the head gasket.