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70 FJ40

70 FJ40

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Feb 16, 2011
Threads
85
Messages
1,058
Location
Eastern, OR
I bought an 81 FJ60 today. Really fun. It runs rough, but I know with a little tlc I can get it running like a top. I'll have to learn more about the carb, vacuum lines and such. Bought it from a paint and body guy that removed all the rust and gave it a new paint job. I'm in love with the truck. Kinda feel like im cheating on my 40, though.
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Very nice, must be good to know that the body is sorted, that’s the biggest job IMO with these trucks…

Think you need more axes 🪓 though 😀
 
JPW 67 said:
Very nice, must be good to know that the body is sorted, that’s the biggest job IMO with these trucks…

Think you need more axes 🪓 though 😀
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Ya, knowing the body is sorted was the key selling point. It is beautiful. And you are right. I do need more axes. I'm kind of a succor for old hatchet and axes.
 
Early one! Does it have the glass protector bar attached to the tailgate? That was 1981 only. These early ones have a few other differences with later 60s too: glass fuses instead of ATC, no choke or 4wd indicator lights, different trim below the cargo windows, no spacer in the transmission, double cardan front driveshaft (later had only a single u-joint on either end), no headlight washers, and the interior brown color was slightly different pre-1984. Fun stuff.
 
CruiserTrash said:
Early one! Does it have the glass protector bar attached to the tailgate? That was 1981 only. These early ones have a few other differences with later 60s too: glass fuses instead of ATC, no choke or 4wd indicator lights, different trim below the cargo windows, no spacer in the transmission, double cardan front driveshaft (later had only a single u-joint on either end), no headlight washers, and the interior brown color was slightly different pre-1984. Fun stuff.
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Wow, I didn't realize there were that many differences. It is a March of '81 so quite early I think. Has glass fuses, which I kinda like. It does have choke and 4WD lights, though. They are not currently funtioning. Thats one of the things I hope to get squared away. No headlight washers. And, yes, still has the tailgate glass protector. It really seams like its in the way, so I already took it off.
 
70 FJ40 said:
Wow, I didn't realize there were that many differences. It is a March of '81 so quite early I think. Has glass fuses, which I kinda like. It does have choke and 4WD lights, though. They are not currently funtioning. Thats one of the things I hope to get squared away. No headlight washers. And, yes, still has the tailgate glass protector. It really seams like its in the way, so I already took it off.
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Yeah, the tailgate protector thing is kind of goofy. I don't think I'd keep it if I had one.

Check behind those colored plastic choke and 4WD indicator lenses. They're just dummy covers like in my 82 I bet, with no bulbs or anything behind them. Do they even say "choke" and "4WD" on them or are they just blank lenses?
 
They do say "choke" and "4WD". I looked up under the dash and there is not a bulb, just a socket, behind the"choke" lense. I found this bulb (see pic)up behind the "4WD" lense. It was just hanging by some non stock wires that were connected to Toyota wires and had some electrical tape on it. The non stock wires just wound around through some brackets and dead ended.
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I spent an hour or so cleaning all the old non stock wires out of the dash and under the hood. They were all disconnected on one end or the other. Feels more like a clean slate now. I need to find some factory dash switch blanks.
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Also, this is under the hood. Any guess what its for?
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I bet the bracket was for an air compressor, that’s my best guess. Getting all that dead weight wiring out is a great move. Crap like that can cause so many problems.

I’ve never seen a pre-1983 truck with choke and 4wd indicators. The seatbelt light is down on the right where your 4wd light is and the brake indicator is the only thing in the middle. Either the very earliest ones look like yours or somebody swapped the cluster out with a later one.

Here’s a recent photo I took where you can mostly see how the dash is laid out. Unfortunately you can’t see where the choke indicator would be, but it’s a blank orange plastic lens with no writing on it and nothing behind it. Note: my steering wheel and choke knob are not stock.
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JPW 67 said:
…

Think you need more axes 🪓 though 😀
. And you are right. I do need more axes. I'm kind of a succor for old hatchet and axes.
Click to expand...
Never enough axes
@70 FJ40 , perchance do you have scandanavian blood running thru your veins? That would explain you finding succor from axes. Oh yeah, while we're discussing axes, whats the simileraties between b00bs n axes?














Even the small ones are fun to play with:grinpimp:
Oops, just about forgot the welcome:flipoff2: nice start on the 60
 
So, I'm starting in trying to get this thing running better. It has lots of get up and go and runs down the road well, but I have to keep the choke pulled 1/2 out to keep it running when I stop. I'm trying to use the lean drop method to tune the carb, but unless the idle is up at 1100 or so it wont stay running. Seems like I should have a vacuum leak, but I can't find one. I tested the brake booster by pressing on the brakes then turning the rig off. Brake pedal stayed firm. Then, with the rig off, I pumped the brake until it was firm then start the truck. The pedal squished a little. All sesms good there. Then I disconnected the vacuum hose to the booster and pumped fog into it with a cheap fog machine. Plugged off intake at the top of the carb. At first I had a little fog escaping out a little hose above the charcoal canister. I replaced that with new and now I can't find anywhere fog is escaping. Is there another place I can pump fog into to try and find a leak? Is there something else to try?

I've had a 40 for quite a while but it has always run pretty well. I've not had to mess too much with it, so im no great mechanic when it comes to tuning thes old rigs. I want to be, though.
 
Fuel cut solenoid? Getting an audible click when cycling the key on?
 
Ya. Pretty sure I am. I might describe it as a quiet clunk. Where do I find the fuelcut solenoid?
 
Should mention, the PO just did a smog delete. I think he used the Man-A-Free kit.
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The wire going across the front of your carb that looks melted in those pics is the fuel cut wire. When you turn the key it should click in the top cover of the carb where that wire goes in. You can try it, then unplug that wire and try it and see if there’s any difference (shouldn’t click unplugged). But from the pics at least, the wire looks not the best.

Aside from the fuel cut, that looks to be an aftermarket/knockoff Aisin carb. Nothing wrong with that but they are notorious for needing a rebuild and/or tweaks fresh out of the box. You could have a vacuum leak between mating surfaces or at the secondary diaphragm, or casting and machining slag blocking passages. In short, start with the fuel cut, then suspect carb.

For the vacuum lines with that carb, you only need the line to the brake booster and the line to PCV. You can run a line from port on the base of the carb on the valve cover side to the vacuum advance, just listen for pinging depending on where your timing is set. I’d start with just those vacuum lines then can experiment to see if the charcoal canister is functioning and hook it up.
 
@Skreddy thanks for the pointers. You are correct that is a new knock off carb. The PO just put that on. I thought I remembered hearing good things about them so didn't suspect that to be the problem. I'll reconsider now. If I don't want to rebuild the carb, who is the go to now to get a good desmogged carb?

You are correct with that wire. It is definitely a poor connection. It was all covered in electrical tape. I suspect to hold the connector together. I drove the truck some yesterday and it kinda faltered/stumbled and bucked under heavy acceleration at high RPMs. Felt like it was starved for fuel. When I got back and was doing some looking under the hood last night, I noticed the connector had pulled apart even with the elctrical tape wrapped around it. If that was disconnected would that cause my stumbling and bucking at full throttle?

Thanks, Max
 
There is a couple other wires in that loom coming off the driver's fender as well. Both look to have been cut. One you can see in the picture above the other is way further back down under the brake master cylinder(not visible intl the pocture). Are either of those important after the smog delete?

Max
 
The cut wires could be for the carb fan sensor or other emissions components.

The fuel cut solenoid will cause those problems you mention. It’ll stumble and surge, etc through all rpm ranges. Mine came unhooked and did exactly as you are describing.

Rebuilding the carb is not that difficult. Get a kit from cruiser outfitters. On mine (actually a couple I’ve done), the mating surfaces weren’t flat, gaskets covering ports, etc.
 
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