Most difficult Job on a 60 (2 Viewers)

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Nov 3, 2019
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I reckon we should have a competition for the most difficult job on a 60, because its a 60 (not talking cracking a thermostat bolt).

My vote is to install the AC Idle Pully Nuts (or even adjust the thing). Aus series 3F. I wanted to tighten the AC belt as it was squeaking, and stupidly turned the bolt wrong way, so both dome and normal nuts fell of the adjuster bolt. The bolt is from the bottom, so only small hands apply, and using 3 extension for a socket. The Nuts are wedged under the power-steering, no socket, tool of anykind, except 2 finger tips can reach it. Had to remove fan cowling (thank god I cut it in half), get one hand through the fans to the bottom bolt, feed it up through hole, with other hand wedged under powersteering trying to get nuts on, need to feed the nut with bolt hand first. Head firmly stuck in the engine bay, standing on the box making love to a blinker..... 2 hours later finally got it.

For those wanting to avoid this.
- Bolt from the bottom, Clockwise (Tighten) will wind AC pulley down, which loosens the belt.
- Bolt from bottom, Anti-clockwise (Loosen) will wind AC Pulley Up, this tightens the belt, BUT also loosens the top Nuts, untill they fall off.
- Correct method is either A) Have top nuts very tight, or weld the bugger to the bolt, so you dont have that problem, or B) use a technique, when you Turn Bolt anti-clockwise from the bottom, push UP, which is against the belt, raises top nut, allowing it to turn, without spinning off.

Other tip, is get in and feel for where the top nut is, how much thread it has and check constantly while doing it.

What other jobs are hard?
 
The only thing i wont diy on my truck is diffs. Id say the bumper rivets suck pretty hard too
 
C channels. I am now on Year 3 of replacing mine. Yesterday I finally got all the metal off from one side, but there are still those 2 stubborn rivets (now headless on both sides) holding the shackle hanger on that I won't budge. I might have to remove the shackle, which I was plannign on doing anyways to replace the leaf springs, so I can get access with a drill underneath to hollow them out. Then I'll do what I can to remove the rust in that part of the frame (the pitting means I'll never get it all out), then spray with Eastwood frame paint, and then a nice layer of grease before the replacement C channels go in. Does anyone know of a good rust remover I could spray on to address the rust in the pitting?
 
Removing OEM rubber bushings from the leaf springs and hangers after 30 years. I was very close to lighting the truck on fire and calling the insurance company.
 
C channels. I am now on Year 3 of replacing mine. Yesterday I finally got all the metal off from one side, but there are still those 2 stubborn rivets (now headless on both sides) holding the shackle hanger on that I won't budge. I might have to remove the shackle, which I was plannign on doing anyways to replace the leaf springs, so I can get access with a drill underneath to hollow them out. Then I'll do what I can to remove the rust in that part of the frame (the pitting means I'll never get it all out), then spray with Eastwood frame paint, and then a nice layer of grease before the replacement C channels go in. Does anyone know of a good rust remover I could spray on to address the rust in the pitting?

Amazon product ASIN B001U1KDDC
This stuff works well. It’s gnarly so wear a respirator. You absolutely need one for this.
Avoid spraying it on bare non-rusted metal as it’s a waste of product and makes a mess. Do not spray it on paint. It will damage the paint and soften it. It will never dry and will remain tacky. Only use it on rusted metal after you’ve removed as much of the heavy scaling as you possibly can. Left this stuff dry for a few days and then use a wire brush to knock the white powder off and then paint straight over it. For heavy rust you may have to go at it a few rounds until it stops bleeding through the top layer.
 
Amazon product ASIN B001U1KDDC
This stuff works well. It’s gnarly so wear a respirator. You absolutely need one for this.
Avoid spraying it on bare non-rusted metal as it’s a waste of product and makes a mess. Do not spray it on paint. It will damage the paint and soften it. It will never dry and will remain tacky. Only use it on rusted metal after you’ve removed as much of the heavy scaling as you possibly can. Left this stuff dry for a few days and then use a wire brush to knock the white powder off and then paint straight over it. For heavy rust you may have to go at it a few rounds until it stops bleeding through the top layer.
I have Ospho which may be similar. I moved away from that due to the white residue which prevents paint from sticking but as you say, if I can brush it off, it may be OK.
 
Removing OEM rubber bushings from the leaf springs and hangers after 30 years. I was very close to lighting the truck on fire and calling the insurance company.
That's the next job I have to look forward to! My Sawzall may make that much easier!

I am tired of my 60 being a decorative lawn ornament.. I want this thing on the road but I'm so busy. I don't have a huge number of tasks to do -- C channels, suspension replacement, front knuckles, fix leaking power steering reservoir cap, fix engine temp gauge, some minor bodywork rust, and finish dealing with some rust on the inside floor pan Then it's good to drive. I just have so little time, and I don't trust anyone else to do the work since they all screw it up. I get inspired by 60 videos like this. I should be there with these guys, I go to all these places but in my 4runner.

 
That's the next job I have to look forward to! My Sawzall may make that much easier!

I am tired of my 60 being a decorative lawn ornament.. I want this thing on the road but I'm so busy. I don't have a huge number of tasks to do -- C channels, suspension replacement, front knuckles, fix leaking power steering reservoir cap, fix engine temp gauge, some minor bodywork rust, and finish dealing with some rust on the inside floor pan Then it's good to drive. I just have so little time, and I don't trust anyone else to do the work since they all screw it up. I get inspired by 60 videos like this. I should be there with these guys, I go to all these places but in my 4runner.


I would just plan on cutting the shackle pins. Get yourself a MAP torch for burning the rubber out. I thought I was going to reuse the shackles and pins. LOL NOPE! They’re so rusted it’s crazy to see how bad they are when you pull them out.

The toughest thing is getting the axle at the right spot so that the springs don’t bind up. It’s a real chore to be honest and if I was much older I wouldn’t want to do the work myself. If I ever have to do it again I might pay someone else the big bucks. It sucks that much. I’d rather pull and stab the transmission with no help.
 

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