Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (8 Viewers)

[GLTHFJ60]

Had @S4Cruiser and @ontherxs over to share a few beers and lend a hand putting the diff together a few days ago. Got the pinion support all together and preload set after the 4th shim combination , housing drilled, tapped and clearanced, then the carrier popped in and initial backlash set. Didn't take many pictures:

I completely destroyed another vice so I bought a large 6" parker from @S4cruisier that weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 170#. Shouldn't be able to brake that one.

This is the pattern we ended up with. Turns out it's really difficult to put load on the pinion when the axle is out of the truck. Will check the pattern again using the brakes to load the gears after the first 500 miles. Looks to be well centered on the tooth, so I'm happy.

ARB ships the blue air line with a bulkhead fitting with their locker, but it's a weird size (5mm) essentially proprietary line because replacement or repair fittings can't be found anywhere. Fortunately semis use air for their brakes and polyethylene lines that are 1/4" are widely available with every fitting known to man. As such, I'm running the 1/4" lines, which means that the bulkhead fitting has to be modified.

Cut it off and drill it out so that the copper slides all the way though:

Now, since I also changed where the line exits the housing, I have enough room for the bulkhead fitting inside:

Then finally my push-lock fitting goes in the outside:

Yes, the material is thick enough there that I can tap the housing for 1/4-18 (NPT) from both directions, allowing me to thread the NPT fittings in from both sides.

Tested the locker and she functions as expected. The beautiful thing about push-lock fittings is that they're easy to take apart, so I connected the line to test, then easily removed to install the axle:

Filled her with gear oil and put the cover on, then plucked the axle up with the engine crane:

Got it on the ground at the back and slid her in:

Hooked up a few things and called it a night last night. Still need to torque some stuff, bleed the brakes, mount the air compressor then finally hook up the switches:

 

[S4Cruiser]

^^^ Modification on the air line is super trick! If I ever have issues then I'll switch to this setup.

 

[boots4]

I dig the 1/4 line and have also used it. I used 1/4 line from my air solenoid to the air tank but used compression fittings instead of push-lok fittings. I did end up using the line that was provided by my Yukon zip locker when I installed that up front and I think that's something like 7mm line. I'll most likely convert that when I run into a snag.

I have also used 1/8" semi truck air line to replace one of my boost gauge reference lines. I did convert to compression fittings for that too.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I dig the 1/4 line and have also used it. I used 1/4 line from my air solenoid to the air tank but used compression fittings instead of push-lok fittings. I did end up using the line that was provided by my Yukon zip locker when I installed that up front and I think that's something like 7mm line. I'll most likely convert that when I run into a snag.

I have also used 1/8" semi truck air line to replace one of my boost gauge reference lines. I did convert to compression fittings for that too.

Good to know that the 1/8" line works for gauges!!

Any specific reason you used compression instead of push-lock?

 

[boots4]

Yeah 1/8" brake air hose was cheaper and thicker than "boost" line so I converted my fittings over and have plenty of spare line now. No reason for compression over push-lok. Push-lok are easier for taking the hose off more often. We have both here at work and neither give issues.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Picked a spot and mounted the air compressor. Turns out the compressor has 1/8" NPT fittings and I ordered all 1/4" Need to run to lowes to buy a few fittings to fix it.

Picked the following spot for my pneumatic locker switches. This keeps them out of the way but are still very accessible by me even when I'm strapped into my seat. Very happy about this position:

Bulkhead fitting through the floor:

Hose to rear is the only one installed so far:

Where the bulkhead fitting comes through the floor:

Bought little air line clips to hold the air line and then it's zip-tied to the e-brake cables with some slack:

Finally, you can see where the air line connects to the top of the housing.

Took her for a test drive after doing everything else on the list and had an oscillating scraping noise that made me nervous for a minute, but it was just a disk brake shield that was rubbing the rotor. Easy fix



Done for now!

 

[cruisermatt]

NICE

 

[woytovich]

Agreed, nice...

 

[Cruising Canuck]

We have the exact same work bench. A good vice is worth it, you need to be able to put a breaker bar on it from time to time

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Thanks guys!

Since I'm going the pneumatic switch route I only needed the compressor and switch, not the locker switches, so I unloomed the ARB compressor and switch harnesses, cut out the extra wires and re-loomed it so I only had the battery connection, pressure switch, compressor motor connection and compressor on/off switch. Came out pretty nice!! Put a wye in to feed the switches off of one port on the compressor so that I can put an air tool on the other port in case of emergency fill-ups. Tested and everything works perfectly

You'll get a kick out of this

Wanted to put the compressor switch in the blank to the right of the steering column where the H4 switch would go if it were an HJ61 or FJ62. The ARB compressor switch is a carling switch so I needed to grind/file away the plastic so that the carling switch would seat, no big deal. Painted it pink to match my diff cover but was getting impatient and wanted to be finished, so I tried to dry it faster with a plumbers torch. Of course it lit on fire, but I managed to put it out before the part completely melted so I could form it back to rough shape. Another quick file later and we're good

EDIT: To clarify, that little bezel was out of the dash on the ground to paint when I set it on fire, so no risk of setting moonshine on fire.

On to the next project!!!

 

[woytovich]

Burned bezel: very grunge.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Pulled out my drawers and emptied the contents.

Gave the trusty old drawers away to @DeeRex

Started the new storage system:

 

[brooksfj60]

Can't wait to see the new storage system! looks great so far.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Thanks @brooksfj60 !

Rounded the corners and ground some welds:

Worked on my CAD skills and then made some brackets:

Trimmed up the brackets and put on some paint:

This rack uses the rear seat belt bolts (angled brackets) and two of the factory holes in the rear of the bed. Going to skin this with plywood tonight!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Aluminum is great for its ease of bending and routing but there is one down side that I have personally experienced. Rocks can get flung up and stuck between the frame and the line, then they vibrate there from engine and driving. Slowly the rock will eat through the aluminum line and give a leak. I had this on a Supra i built years ago, ended up replacing with steel 3/8th break line.

@Wheelingnoob you put this post in this thread in July of 2013, warning me about leaks with the aluminum fuel lines caused by rocks and whatnot. Well three and a half years later, I've got a leak in the aluminum hard line above my rear axle

Found this post searching for what line I bought before (to order more) and had to laugh at myself for ignoring your advice.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Had @S4Cruiser and @ontherxs over to share a few beers and lend a hand putting the diff together a few days ago. Got the pinion support all together and preload set after the 4th shim combination , housing drilled, tapped and clearanced, then the carrier popped in and initial backlash set. Didn't take many pictures:

I completely destroyed another vice so I bought a large 6" parker from @S4cruisier that weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 170#. Shouldn't be able to brake that one.

This is the pattern we ended up with. Turns out it's really difficult to put load on the pinion when the axle is out of the truck. Will check the pattern again using the brakes to load the gears after the first 500 miles. Looks to be well centered on the tooth, so I'm happy.

ARB ships the blue air line with a bulkhead fitting with their locker, but it's a weird size (5mm) essentially proprietary line because replacement or repair fittings can't be found anywhere. Fortunately semis use air for their brakes and polyethylene lines that are 1/4" are widely available with every fitting known to man. As such, I'm running the 1/4" lines, which means that the bulkhead fitting has to be modified.

Cut it off and drill it out so that the copper slides all the way though:

Now, since I also changed where the line exits the housing, I have enough room for the bulkhead fitting inside:

Then finally my push-lock fitting goes in the outside:

Yes, the material is thick enough there that I can tap the housing for 1/4-18 (NPT) from both directions, allowing me to thread the NPT fittings in from both sides.

Tested the locker and she functions as expected. The beautiful thing about push-lock fittings is that they're easy to take apart, so I connected the line to test, then easily removed to install the axle:

Filled her with gear oil and put the cover on, then plucked the axle up with the engine crane:

Got it on the ground at the back and slid her in:

Hooked up a few things and called it a night last night. Still need to torque some stuff, bleed the brakes, mount the air compressor then finally hook up the switches:

Johnny, I love the vice. Can't say I know what all that other stuff is your doing

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Storage rack skinned with 3/4" ply. Fits exactly the way I want!

This will, more or less, be the layout. Fridge on the left and a single, wide drawer on the right:

 

[woytovich]

Does the fridge top open all the way where it sits? It looks like it'll hit the side window. Or are you going to move it to the right a bit and put it on a slide?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Does the fridge top open all the way where it sits? It looks like it'll hit the side window. Or are you going to move it to the right a bit and put it on a slide?

No and no. It'll be right where it is in the pic. I can open it high enough to grab a beer or sandwich out where it is, and if I need more access, the lid pops off

 

[boots4]

Interesting, my new rear drawer set up is very similar except I have my fridge spot on the passenger side and a single drawer on the driver side. I chose that setup since I have a driver side tire swing and with the 38 spare tire blocking my rear view on that side anyways I can load that interior space up to the roof if needed and see out the rear window above the fridge on the passenger side. I set up my drawer height just tall enough to contain an ammo can and have since transferred a bunch of my stuff into a group of those ammo cans to make it easier to bring a tool set to the place of need if necessary. Total height of the box is barely taller than the wheel wells so I can sleep on top if I'm solo. I made a quick little removable platform to go over my folded down rear seat and tie into my storage box and have just enough room to sleep on a pad in the back. It's all still just wood and I need to cover/coat it with something still. I was thinking of that deck restore kind of stuff you see at Home Depot or Lowes with maybe a rubber sheet on the top surface.