Builds FJ40 buggy re-fresh

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the extra 5 degrees of the 80 knuckles is so nice.
 
the extra 5 degrees of the 80 knuckles is so nice.
Is it purely from the knuckles, or do the 80 birfs also allow more angle than the 40/60/minitruck units?
 
Is it purely from the knuckles, or do the 80 birfs also allow more angle than the 40/60/minitruck units?

the knuckles have more travel before they hit the axle housing
 
Only because the knuckles are larger. Not because the birfs can handle more angle, AFAIK anyway.
 
Ya that's why I'm limiting the ram. Even at that it seems to steer sharper. Couple pics of the relocated drain plug and the new ball gussets. Gonna finish welding out the housing tomorrow. I"ll get some better pictures of it before I paint it. Still have to add the double shear tab for the air shocks behind the upper ball gussets and a piece of hard stuff to protect the ring gear on the bottom. Got a few hours into this diff now. I'll be glad to be finished it.
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That is the ultimate Land Cruiser front axle..
 
Got some paint on the axle after I finished up the rest of the mounts. Threw a shock on and set it to 5" up travel at it's current height. It seems like I won't have to cut holes into the hood if I don't run the shock towers above the shocks. I think I can fit them inside.

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Following this thread make we wish I did not sale my buggy
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I have been running the tundra Rotors and calipers and they have been fine . What you are doing is basically the same set up i have had
I just searched your build thread to see your similar brake setup and your brakes are nothing at all like what I am doing. Hellfire knuckles and tundra rotors with 60 spindles and hubs machined down to accept slip on rotors are bolt on in factory position. No little brackets or IFS hubs. Your setup is not original at all and doesn't use all factory made parts. I'm sure your brakes work fine. I'm quite certain mine will as well. If anyone has seen this setup before I came up with it please post a picture.
 
Haven't had much time with this the last week or two. Got a few days to get a few things going. This is the shock hoop idea. Going to tie the two hoops together across the front and a vertical tube down to the main rails. No holes in the hood hopefully.

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Got a few more tubes in. Installed some tube connectors for the front tube in case I need to remove the engine at some point. Got the upper shock mounts made and installed the passenger side ones. I have about 1/4" between the top of the mounts and the inside of the hood. Probably not long before they are mashed together ha ha .
Going to do the drivers side today and mount the radiator. I'm using a 65 Ford Mustang aftermarket aluminum rad that I'll have to move the hot side inlet to the drivers side but the size seems right for this setup. I'll post pics up this evening of the rad and mounts.

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Got the radiator mounted. I used the rubber mounts from an a/c condenser to mount it. Trying to stay all metric JIS sizes . Made the top mounts removable from the frame to maintain the width for engine removal.

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Kinda hard to see but the fan blades are 5/8" from the rad at the closest point. Still enough room for the winch inside the engine compartment. Couple of other things tomorrow to tidy up then I can paint and get ready to start finishing something.:cool:
 
I made one of these for the ends of the rails in the front. Still one to go. I wasn't able to find ones that fit the inside of 2" DOM. I'll drill 4-3/8" holes around the circumference to plug weld as well as welding around the circumference but I think they'll work well for recovery points. Pretty hacktacular but I used my lathe and a zip cut and 20 mins or so to get to this point.

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I love how that looks.

Why the multiple bolt patterns in the winch plate? Changes over time or are you future proofing?
 
I had the same idea to put the winch behind the bib for my eventual project, it seems like such a no-brainer for a coilover build
 

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