Builds Megadoomer Build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Wiring!!!! I am still trying to find the reason my dash lights and rear markers lights come on when I press the break. At the same time I replaced the side markers and made sure they were grounded well. So I had been testing the by just pulling the light switch 1 click. Then I pull all the way out and the front markers turn off. Wtf! So I'm thinking the light switch is wired wrong. I'm looking at it I look up a swith diagram on the webernets and it doesn't make sense. Then I see a pic of a switch and it's nothing like my switch. No idea who made it but I do think I'm on to something. If I can figure out where things are supposed to be and what my wires power I might have this silly wire setup licked.

In other news, I ordered a new alt pulley, and I'm going to add a piece to the alt bracket that may aid in keeping the belt from galloping so much. Might also get an idler pulley fab'd in. Happy building!

Mega

If you are in San Diego I can fix that wiring issue. Wires is how I make my bread. Razilla
 
I may take you up on that if this next idea doesn't do it. I technically make my bread on wires too, just 12000 volts vs 12 volts. I work on the construction and design of electrical distribution and transmission. In fact I was sagging wire in Lakeside on monday and was hoping a certain blue piggy would drive by and make my day.
 
I may take you up on that if this next idea doesn't do it. I technically make my bread on wires too, just 12000 volts vs 12 volts. I work on the construction and design of electrical distribution and transmission. In fact I was sagging wire in Lakeside on monday and was hoping a certain blue piggy would drive by and make my day.

Mega
Wires....how funny you work for SDGE or its affiliates. I am a C-10 licensed contractor trained by IBEW local 569. Brotherhood seems appropriate. Lets get that electrical issue resolved on doomer.
 
In other news, I ordered a new alt pulley, and I'm going to add a piece to the alt bracket that may aid in keeping the belt from galloping so much. Might also get an idler pulley fab'd in. Happy building!
I had to call Pa Performance to ask a question about my alternator and found the handy chart on their site.
An alternator needs 1800-2000 RPM at idle to make power and will make maximum output at 6000 rpm but will fail at 16,000 RPM

Measure Alternator pulley size (for example 2.5")

Measure Crankshaft Pulley Size (for example 5")

The Ratio is 2:1 (5 divided by 2.5 = 2)

To find MAX RPM: take your Max engine Speed (for example 5800 RPM) and multiply it by the calculated ratio (5800 x 2) = 11,600 shaft RPM

To find IDLE RPM: Multiply Idle RPM x Ratio (for example 1000 x 2) = 2000 shaft RPM @ Idle
 
Last edited:
Got my pulley in today. Opened it up and it looks like it will be better than the old one. It's total diameter is 3.25 inches but the belt sits about .25 down so I'd estimate 3 inch track which should slow it down a bit. I got it on after a good wrestle with the damn lock nut. I ran out of time and didn't mount it mostly because I need a little more belt now. Though I can make an adjustment to the bracket and keep the belt the same. I'll finish it after work tomorrow and hot the rpms to test my theory.

Now that the heat is getting up there I also need to get a fan shroud made. I designed it in AutoCAD but I'm trying to find a cheap way to get it made.
 
Got my pulley in today. Opened it up and it looks like it will be better than the old one. It's total diameter is 3.25 inches but the belt sits about .25 down so I'd estimate 3 inch track which should slow it down a bit. I got it on after a good wrestle with the damn lock nut. I ran out of time and didn't mount it mostly because I need a little more belt now. Though I can make an adjustment to the bracket and keep the belt the same. I'll finish it after work tomorrow and hot the rpms to test my theory.

Now that the heat is getting up there I also need to get a fan shroud made. I designed it in AutoCAD but I'm trying to find a cheap way to get it made.

There is a dude who has a shop in elcajon accross from eskimo radiator at bradly and magnolia streets
 
Got the pulley in with more new belts. I started it up and no screeching or any other scary sounds so I let it warm up. Gave a few revs and nothing broke. Then I proceeded to drive it like I stole it thru my hood and no incident. So I guess I win. Next task.
 
No real updates other than I've put about 100 miles with no issues. However, there has been talk about transfer cases so I decided to find out what kind I actually had. I have a NP-205 from 1971. That is all.
 
Just spent my Friday morning reading your build thread instead of working. Since I wont be making any money today because of you, I think you owe me a beer :beer:.

Nice work. I am always amazed and envious of you guys that have fab skills!
 
Thanks man, I'm a hack compared to Scrapdaddy and Jmack. Since you are near my hood I would have no problem buying a round, maybe at Stone or Ballast Point or which ever micro you like.
 
Sounds good to me. I might actually have mine semi-road worthy in a couple of weeks. We can meet up, just not sure I should drive it too far from home :)
 
Been messing with a newish carb. I went with a Carter AFB vs. the current nondescript Holley of some size unknown. While trying to dial in the carb I decided to check the timing, thinking maybe that was the reason it just didn't run right. Kept fiddle****ing with the timing and it never worked right. So I decided to change out my plugs and wires and noticed that the PO had all the wires shifted hole over from where they should be. so the dist was about 45 degrees out from where it should be so that it would even run. The issue I was having was the vacuum advance can was hitting the manifold and I couldn't retard the timing anymore. So I got the wires in correctly with new pretty plugs and I'm close with the timing I believe. I just need to dial it in.

However, all this talk about LSX swaps has got me thinking. SO I find on craigsbay a 2002 1500 LS motor 5.3 with all the trimmings for only $850. Should I jump on this?

Texted from ad.

Complete Chevrolet Motor Assembly with harness, ECU computer, all accessories, exhaust manifolds, air box, radiator, cooling fan assembly, AC condenser, compressor, intake, injectors, hoses, tensioners , expansion tank, everything you need to make the swap right and smog legal. This engine was pulled by the experienced tech that was going to install it in my hot rod, so there are no broken clips or cut wires. 5.3L vortec Chevy engine from a 2002 Silverado 1500.
 
I forgot about it but the guy I bought the pig from had his out mechanic shop, so if you need assistance in Beaumont, CA don't stop there.

It took a few tries but I got my timing just right 10* idle and 32* 2500 rpm. I was st 36 and I was getting some knocking. Now I've been barking the tires off the line. I have never had this much power.

This weekend I'm going to test the hill climb, see if it stalls like the holley did.
 
I still have the weird thing with the lights. It isn't killing me, I'm trying to get a few more engine tasks taken care of. I need a shroud still, a cowl tub to make the hood functional, and I have to make a support for my alternator. I might have to do a custom gas tank. Something tells me it might gunk in it.
 
Ok. Today I took the day off to do some spring cleaning. It's likely to take the rest of my life, but I'm down later.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom