some more pics. clearance to the winshield washer fluid filler tube is good. driver's side ballasts mounted behind the fuse box. i haven't sorted the passenger side yet.
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I’m tempted to order a set of glass lens and wrapping them in some kind of paint-protection film to prevent rock chipsBoth polycarbonate and glass are still available through Lexus. If your lights are in good condition stick with polycarbonate. I don't see any advantage to buying glass unless you are trying to source used housing but one hit from a stone and your buying new housing. All the lights I build are poly
What are you asking for everything? Are they OEM Headlights?Last year I bought a retrofit kit but decided not to do the project. Selling the kit + a spare set of headlights
$450 for everything. Yes, OEM Lexus headlights. Headlights are in decent used condition.What are you asking for everything? Are they OEM Headlights?
I'm working on 2 kits that will be 90% finished using either the Morimoto H1 7.0 or the Morimoto Mirco D2S. Using new OEM housing which will have the new projectors installed. You simply install, align the cut off. remove and seal. Since I don't have a shop, building finished lights required me to remove the lights in my truck, make all the adjustments, then have to install my lights again. Offering a kit will cut the cost and allow me to build lights as I'm considering selling my truck. Pricing will be coming soon but I'm shooting for $300-$350 savings from $1950.00.@Luke111 are you selling a plug-and-play version these days? Or are you doing installs at your shop?
If you have a garage I would recommend setting up a fixture that mounts to an unchanging location (wall mount?), put your headlight asm in there and then align to a predefined (unchanging) mark across the garage. Could save you a lot of time installing/removing from your truck.I'm working on 2 kits that will be 90% finished using either the Morimoto H1 7.0 or the Morimoto Mirco D2S. Using new OEM housing which will have the new projectors installed. You simply install, align the cut off. remove and seal. Since I don't have a shop, building finished lights required me to remove the lights in my truck, make all the adjustments, then have to install my lights again. Offering a kit will cut the cost and allow me to build lights as I'm considering selling my truck. Pricing will be coming soon but I'm shooting for $300-$350 savings from $1950.00.
We'll I don't have a garage and if I did it would have to be more then 30 feet deep. if i remove the adjustment step and sealing I can lower the price. Trust me I've considered that option but mounting them in the truck is the most accurate way to adjust the rotation to insure the cut offs are level.If you have a garage I would recommend setting up a fixture that mounts to an unchanging location (wall mount?), put your headlight asm in there and then align to a predefined (unchanging) mark cross the garage. Could save you a lot of time installing/removing from your truck.
Bummer, appreciate your product so was hoping to save you some time!We'll I don't have a garage and if I did it would have to be more then 30 feet deep. if i remove the adjustment step and sealing I can lower the price. Trust me I've considered that option but mounting them in the truck is the most accurate way to adjust the rotation to insure the cut offs are level.
Also, for D2S users I found a good sealing cap that also has a hole in it specifically for the bulb connection. Again, only for D2S users. Mini H1 need not apply. You have to cut the center hole in the cover shorter, then put the grommet over the D2S connector and plug the bulb in.
Headlight Covers 80mm