LX470 HID RETROFIT PROJECTOR BRACKET (5 Viewers)

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"Is it worth it for the HB LED? My plans for the HB cavity didn't work out, so I'm either going to do quads with all the parts I have, or go with the LED HB above. Not really keen on spending another 150nif I have the projectors for quads. I could always pull the cutoff out of the projectors and just run them as high beams. Still requires a ton of work. I should add I have a spare set of HB reflectors."

do quads. use the nut and bolt method. place the second set of projectors on an auxillary switch if you like. you could run the second set of projectors with 3000k bulbs for rain/fog/snow- if legal in your state. you could run led bulbs in your projectors, but the performance is likely not as good as the straight led high beam projector options. it also adds cost and effort for little gain.

...my upcoming quad d2s 5.0 retrofit using luke111's d2s brackets. the high beam bowl, oem shrouds, and new retrofit shrouds require modification with quad 5.0 projectors. the brackets are a time saver! my lx is on jack stands while i work on it- it's delaying my retrofit. everything is still loosely in place since i'm unable to verify level prior to jb welding the projectors in place while my lx is on stands. only 3 bolts are possible with the nut and bolt method due to the 5.0's fitment in the high beam bowl. i used 8/32" nuts/bolts here. these pics were taken during the fitting stage...nothing is finalized, polished, aimed, sealed, at this point. i relieved the inside of the new shrouds to ease fitment and allow room for some jb. i don't trust the snap on "feature." i expect i will wire the second set of projectors to an auxillary switch. -fewer headaches around town.

it's been my experience that the added weight of a projector into a reflector bowl can introduce vibration which is noticeable with the sharpness of the cutoff. you can minimize this by running in externally adjustable bolts through the housing itself to make contact with the back of the reflector bowl (from two points- bottom and backside). the much softer butyl rubber rolls used for sound deadening can also help deal with vibration, but you need your aim needs to be near final before putting this to use- it can limit your range of adjustment depending on how you use it- the sound deadening butyl. i mention this, as i did quads in a 04 4th gen 4r...the high/low reflectors were one unit...without these steps, the slightest bump in the road would introduce a vibration in the cutoff- drove me nuts. with these modifications, i'd only see vibration with gnarly potholes and ruts. i haven't retrofitted an lx previously, so i can't say if this is a concern on this vehicle. but i'll likely take steps to mitigate any problems while i have the lights unsealed.

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"Is it worth it for the HB LED? My plans for the HB cavity didn't work out, so I'm either going to do quads with all the parts I have, or go with the LED HB above. Not really keen on spending another 150nif I have the projectors for quads. I could always pull the cutoff out of the projectors and just run them as high beams. Still requires a ton of work. I should add I have a spare set of HB reflectors."

do quads. use the nut and bolt method. place the second set of projectors on an auxillary switch if you like. you could run the second set of projectors with 3000k bulbs for rain/fog/snow- if legal in your state. you could run led bulbs in your projectors, but the performance is likely not as good as the straight led high beam projector options. it also adds cost and effort for little gain.

...my upcoming quad d2s 5.0 retrofit using luke111's d2s brackets. the high beam bowl, oem shrouds, and new retrofit shrouds require modification with quad 5.0 projectors. the brackets are a time saver! my lx is on jack stands while i work on it- it's delaying my retrofit. everything is still loosely in place since i'm unable to verify level prior to jb welding the projectors in place while my lx is on stands. only 3 bolts are possible with the nut and bolt method due to the 5.0's fitment in the high beam bowl. i used 8/32" nuts/bolts here. these pics were taken during the fitting stage...nothing is finalized, polished, aimed, sealed, at this point. i relieved the inside of the new shrouds to ease fitment and allow room for some jb. i don't trust the snap on "feature." i expect i will wire the second set of projectors to an auxillary switch. -fewer headaches around town.

it's been my experience that the added weight of a projector into a reflector bowl can introduce vibration which is noticeable with the sharpness of the cutoff. you can minimize this by running in externally adjustable bolts through the housing itself to make contact with the back of the reflector bowl (from two points- bottom and backside). the much softer butyl rubber rolls used for sound deadening can also help deal with vibration, but you need your aim needs to be near final before putting this to use- it can limit your range of adjustment depending on how you use it- the sound deadening butyl. i mention this, as i did quads in a 04 4th gen 4r...the high/low reflectors were one unit...without these steps, the slightest bump in the road would introduce a vibration in the cutoff- drove me nuts. with these modifications, i'd only see vibration with gnarly potholes and ruts. i haven't retrofitted an lx previously, so i can't say if this is a concern on this vehicle. but i'll likely take steps to mitigate any problems while i have the lights unsealed.

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Very nice job getting that D2S stuffed into the High beam location. I’m curious about the back of the high-beam location ..is the threaded shaft sticking out from the housing.
If it is sticking out from the rear of the housing make sure you test fit with whatever cap and igniter you decide to use because the AC lines on the passenger side run right behind that projector. You’ll be somewhat limited to your choice of cap because there’s really no lip for a cap to attach to. Again very nice work.
 
Very nice job getting that D2S stuffed into the High beam location. I’m curious about the back of the high-beam location ..is the threaded shaft sticking out from the housing.
If it is sticking out from the rear of the housing make sure you test fit with whatever cap and igniter you decide to use because the AC lines on the passenger side run right behind that projector. You’ll be somewhat limited to your choice of cap because there’s really no lip for a cap to attach to. Again very nice work.
this is a concern. it's too early to say. i haven't snapped the ball into the socket yet and threaded the adjusters in very far. i think i can keep it so the bulb holder is the only portion extending beyond the housing. if i get creative i can move it foreward to stay inside the housing. i cut the reflector bowl tight to the tail of the projector so i can use a spare blue mounting ring as a stop to experiment with positioning fore and aft- with a second ring on the backside holding the projector. if all else fails, i have a pair of micro d2s projectors on standby. my initial plan was to use the micro's since i know from your work, the mini 8's fit.

i'm waiting on a hard brake line to come in. at the moment, i have a leak to the to one of the upper rear 3an lines i put in. waiting on parts to come in has been killing me. if it weren't for this i could get the lx on the ground and confirm level on the low beam projectors. once this is done i can confirm i have enough play with my mounting holes in the high beam reflector to pair it. i can likely rotate the three nuts on the back of the bowl once snapped in place- if necessary, but getting them started would be impossible unless i add some holes to the housing. -trying to time things correctly. and i don't want to have to pop off the socket too many times, tempting fate.
 
luke111, is there any reason i can't solder wires directly to the back of a d2s bulb and end the wires with amp connectors? i'm using hylux ballasts. i'm guessing this would save an inch, which should be all i require. it would also get me away from having to deal with poor quality d2s>amp adapters. i'm going to start making my own splitters/adapters anyway.
 
luke111, is there any reason i can't solder wires directly to the back of a d2s bulb and end the wires with amp connectors? i'm using hylux ballasts. i'm guessing this would save an inch, which should be all i require. it would also get me away from having to deal with poor quality d2s>amp adapters. i'm going to start making my own splitters/adapters anyway.
Looking closer at your picture I did notice how much of the reflector bowl you cut out just to get the projector and shroud to fit so my next concern can you even put the chrome frame that covers the edges of the reflector bowl back on and is the projector, shroud or frame touching the glass/ polycarbonate lens? Besides everything fitting under the lens and figuring out the rear cap, igniter and A/C clearance dealing with trying to get things level with matching cutoffs and step downs you are about to understand why I no longer have any interest in the quad setup. The gain in usable output is just not worth it.
Personally I would work with what fits and what fits is still a difficult process. As for soldering wires directly to the bulbs I have no idea.
 
the projector won't make contact with the lens and i will be able to utilize the oem shroud to the reflector bowl. that's not an issue. the concern is clearance to the a/c lines like you've mentioned, but i believe it can be done. as to pairing the projectors, once i've confirmed level, the paring will go very quickly. i don't often have the opportunity to run for long stretches with the high beams on, so from my perspective messing with led's and getting the daytime running lights running isn't worth it. quads are more useful and worth the effort. the lx is the easiest vehicle on which to install a quad that i've personally encountered. for most people, retrofitting a single pair of projectors is the way to go. and i understand respect your perspective, especially with the projectors currently available.
 
I just installed Luke111's bracket with the H1 package and JeryyB's wire harness. I'd been looking at it for a while but was intimidated by tearing the headlight all apart. It was tine consuming but not as hard as I thought it would be. Both products were great and the end result is a huge upgrade in light. Thank you both!

Side note: Can anyone tell me what size the hex bolt is for adjusting the headlights? I know how to adjust them and where the bolts/phillips heads are. But as I was doing it tonight in the dark my socket came loose and dropped. Never found it. I was able to finish the vertical adjustment with a screwdriver but the left-right adjuster is harder to reach and I'll need to replace my socket for that. and I don't what what size it was.
 
I just installed Luke111's bracket with the H1 package and JeryyB's wire harness. I'd been looking at it for a while but was intimidated by tearing the headlight all apart. It was tine consuming but not as hard as I thought it would be. Both products were great and the end result is a huge upgrade in light. Thank you both!

Side note: Can anyone tell me what size the hex bolt is for adjusting the headlights? I know how to adjust them and where the bolts/phillips heads are. But as I was doing it tonight in the dark my socket came loose and dropped. Never found it. I was able to finish the vertical adjustment with a screwdriver but the left-right adjuster is harder to reach and I'll need to replace my socket for that. and I don't what what size it was.
An 8mm should work but you should have adjusted them from the front when you adjusted the cut off. You can turn the threaded adjusting rods from the front with vise grips
 
Thanks! I leveled the cutoff from the front in my driveway where I did the work. The final adjustments, for height and side to side, had to be done somewhere else since my driveway is sloped. Found a nice level spot with a wall behind my local grocery store.

Edit, I see what what you mean. The side to side could've been done on a sloped driveway. But I just figured since I had to go find a level spot with a wall anyway I'd do it there with the vertical.
 
i had the lights on the vehicle to check clearances. the a/c lines' clearance isn't an issue. it's tighter on the driver's side, but the 5.0's will fit with my setup. by tight, i expect an 1/8 or 1/4 inch clearance between the lines and igniters i tested. the lines on the driver's side can be scooted over a bit if needed. or the projector can be mounted 1/4" forward. i don't expect to move the projector forward. either way, this will work. the washer fluid reservoir filler tube isn't an issue. this is my fourth quad retrofit, so i knew what to expect going in and i no longer sweat the aiming process. when it's finished i'll post the results in a new thread as you suggested.
toyota sent me the wrong brake line, so i'm running 3an lines instead. now, i'm waiting on some fittings before i can get it back on the ground. plus, it's flintlock season:)
 
Just finished my setup, micro d2s does fit, rotation adjustment of the projector is tight. But it all works, need to find a different dust cap though that's open back. Will post output shots tonight.
 
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Looks like the H1 mini brackets are currently sold out. Will you be getting another shipment in soon @Luke111?
 
I’ve been swapping HID’s, looking at aftermarket headlights, Aftermarket LED bulbs, everything. I have been disheartened by all the results and after perusing through this thread believe this is an actual solution with proper viability! 😊
 
I’ve been swapping HID’s, looking at aftermarket headlights, Aftermarket LED bulbs, everything. I have been disheartened by all the results and after perusing through this thread believe this is an actual solution with proper viability! 😊
HID projectors make night driving funny without blinding oncoming drivers and the output is stupid
First shot it the old Mini H1 4.0
Second and third is a low and high beam shot of the Mini 7.0 the new Mini 8.0 is even better.
Fourth and fifth is a low and high beam shot of the D2S 5.0
“Proper Viability” I’m going to steal that😳👍

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Want to start off with that I am 100% a noob in the HID world. My headlight experience has been go to AutoZone, buy bulb, drop it in. Good to go. So I am seeking some help here

My headlights in the LX I recently bought are awful. Straight up danger territory. So time to fix it. I read a great post (#734) in page 37 that answered a lot of my questions.

My understanding is these HID's that Lou sells can act as both high beams and low beams and my high beams will not longer matter. Works for me as one of my high beams is burnt out.

It seems to install any of the HID's H1 or mini 8.0s (I think they replaced the 7.0) that easiest way is to purchase Lou's bracket.

This process involves baking the headlight and all that which based on my understanding Lou wrote an extensive guide that is in his forum signature.

My confusion comes into what I need to do/buy. My car seems to have HIDs and a ballast which I'll share pictures of. Granted I can find no info on the part so they are getting tossed and replaced.

Based on the photos do I need to rewire anything or this going to be just plug and play because previous owner already went down the HID route.

I also know I need a dust cap as my passenger side is broken. I attached a picture of how terrible my lights are however my camera did an incredible job of capturing light so I used a red line to demonstrate how far the current HIDs throw usable light. Its only about 30 feet.

Appreciate anyone's help in advance and hope I can give Lou some business.

Ballast.jpg
Lights.jpg
 
Want to start off with that I am 100% a noob in the HID world. My headlight experience has been go to AutoZone, buy bulb, drop it in. Good to go. So I am seeking some help here

My headlights in the LX I recently bought are awful. Straight up danger territory. So time to fix it. I read a great post (#734) in page 37 that answered a lot of my questions.

My understanding is these HID's that Lou sells can act as both high beams and low beams and my high beams will not longer matter. Works for me as one of my high beams is burnt out.

It seems to install any of the HID's H1 or mini 8.0s (I think they replaced the 7.0) that easiest way is to purchase Lou's bracket.

This process involves baking the headlight and all that which based on my understanding Lou wrote an extensive guide that is in his forum signature.

My confusion comes into what I need to do/buy. My car seems to have HIDs and a ballast which I'll share pictures of. Granted I can find no info on the part so they are getting tossed and replaced.

Based on the photos do I need to rewire anything or this going to be just plug and play because previous owner already went down the HID route.

I also know I need a dust cap as my passenger side is broken. I attached a picture of how terrible my lights are however my camera did an incredible job of capturing light so I used a red line to demonstrate how far the current HIDs throw usable light. Its only about 30 feet.

Appreciate anyone's help in advance and hope I can give Lou some business.

View attachment 2887222
Not knowing what the current setup is I would replace everything.. the Mini H1 kit will come with new ballast, bulbs and harness.
 
Sorry for trashing up your thread Lou, but will delete this at your request.

So I finally got my retrofit done last week. H1 brackets. Morimoto Micro D2S. Morimoto D2S XB 5000k. Hylux ballasts.

Without high beams:



With high beams:



Goes together without a real hitch. Do know that rotation adjustment is a little bit tight, the lens support on the micro is slightly larger than the mini h1, thus giving you less adjustment. But it wasn't really a problem at the end of the day. Also, for D2S users I found a good sealing cap that also has a hole in it specifically for the bulb connection. Again, only for D2S users. Mini H1 need not apply. You have to cut the center hole in the cover shorter, then put the grommet over the D2S connector and plug the bulb in.



Headlight Covers 80mm
 
quad d2s 5.0 sealed up and on the lx. no output shots yet...need to confirm the source of a p0240 code- hopefully just an o2 sensor. yes, they're level. haven't gotten to the fogs yet. i used meguire's cleaner wax to buff out the hazing that was present in the corner of my low beam lenses. i blacked out everything facing forward on the projectors with a black industrial sharpie. one large zip tie is required to nudge the two lines over on the driver's side, so there's no risk of contact with the igniter. a/c lines weren't an issue for me. clearance between the projector lens and the lx's high beam lens is indeed tight. if i had to guess, there might be 5 to 7 mm of clearance. so you need to have the projector set all the way back to the reflector bowl, and do the aiming with the nut and bolt method with the reflector threaded back a minimum of halfway. i used the oem high beam seals with black rtv to seal the gap. i wasn't happy with the positive snap of the 90 degree amp-d2s adapters i had on hand, hence the presense of a few dabs of jb quick. morimoto igniters may be too large for the high beam location- haven't used these for years, so not sure what the current design is like. fyi, i ran quads on a 4th gen 4r using the oem seals wth black rtv like this and did not have any issue with moisture ingress- of course, my 4r didn't require a snorkel. i used no ox i.d. on my electrical connections. i added bolt on vent breathers.

don't use rubbing alcohol to clean the reflector bowls- the high beam reflectors did not take well to it, and it almost got me in trouble. stick with water and a light touch. clean once.

i'd like to trigger one of the morimoto harnesses running the ballasts with a switch in the cab. any suggestions for a decent switch?

fyi, philips 6k 168 led bulbs are a near perfect color match to hylux 35w ballasts running d2s cbb bulbs.

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