The purpose of this thread is to document and share my experience as well as get input from other who have done similar work and have tips or suggestions.
I recently sold an 80 that I built and had an itch to do another. The last one was 3x locked, 150k miles, oem sub tank, Magnuson supercharger, OEM quad lights, and all maintenance completed with many upgrades from brand names like Wits' End, LandTank, OME, Delta, ARB, and many others.
The new build starts with a higher mileage 80; 304,000 miles. It's a Texas car its entire life and serviced by the dealer every 3k with documentation. Even the catalytic converts were replaced by the dealer a few years back. The original owner had the dealer regularly service all components as most of us do on this forum. The head has never been off and shows no signs of head gasket failure. The body and frame are as rust free as they come and the paint sparkles like new.
My initial plan was to remove the head to address the valves and update the head gasket as well as replace all the parts that are included with the overhaul kit. Once I had the head off I could either put it back together and let it run or remove the block to check on tolerances. The engine came out.
After some thought and consideration of how involved the engine rebuild is, lack of specific measuring tools, not so local machine shops, and not a ton of free time - I decided to buy an OEM short block from Toyota and save the original block for when time allows a proper rebuild or sell it to another member who has time. Toyota informed me that only 3 short blocks are available nationwide. I have heard the same thing over the years from other members doing builds so I don't know if those numbers are true or how it actually works. The engine is supposed to be here in a week.
I removed just the engine. No trans. I do all work alone so in order to separate the engine from trans I removed the head first. I can then reach the top two bolts from the top without any issues. I will get a very long extension when installing the full assembly. It was really easy to get to from the top once the head was off.
The plans for the new motor are:
- Machine and rebuild the head with new guides and seals.
- Replace all wear parts such as chain guides, seals, o-rings, and hardware. More parts will be listed as they are bolted on.
- Install Cometic MLS gasket (part # C-4530-053). Waiting on delivery but taking longer than normal. Anyone have one sitting around?
- Install ARP studs (part # 209-4702, Opel V6) Waiting on delivery but taking longer than normal. Anyone have one sitting around?
- Weld on AN fitting for turbo return line. This is for future addition.
- Rebuild power steering pump.
- Replace water pump.
- Replace cooling system hoses and upgrade to blue fan clutch.
- Pesky heater hose (PHH) with constant torque clamps.
- Heater valve and hoses.
- Replace vacuum lines and vacuum switching valves.
-Rebuild front axle. Completed 5/15/2021
Here are some photos of the truck and progress photos. Engine is in really good condition. Shows little to no wear by visual inspection. Anyone interested in a clean short block for a project?
I recently sold an 80 that I built and had an itch to do another. The last one was 3x locked, 150k miles, oem sub tank, Magnuson supercharger, OEM quad lights, and all maintenance completed with many upgrades from brand names like Wits' End, LandTank, OME, Delta, ARB, and many others.
The new build starts with a higher mileage 80; 304,000 miles. It's a Texas car its entire life and serviced by the dealer every 3k with documentation. Even the catalytic converts were replaced by the dealer a few years back. The original owner had the dealer regularly service all components as most of us do on this forum. The head has never been off and shows no signs of head gasket failure. The body and frame are as rust free as they come and the paint sparkles like new.
My initial plan was to remove the head to address the valves and update the head gasket as well as replace all the parts that are included with the overhaul kit. Once I had the head off I could either put it back together and let it run or remove the block to check on tolerances. The engine came out.
After some thought and consideration of how involved the engine rebuild is, lack of specific measuring tools, not so local machine shops, and not a ton of free time - I decided to buy an OEM short block from Toyota and save the original block for when time allows a proper rebuild or sell it to another member who has time. Toyota informed me that only 3 short blocks are available nationwide. I have heard the same thing over the years from other members doing builds so I don't know if those numbers are true or how it actually works. The engine is supposed to be here in a week.
I removed just the engine. No trans. I do all work alone so in order to separate the engine from trans I removed the head first. I can then reach the top two bolts from the top without any issues. I will get a very long extension when installing the full assembly. It was really easy to get to from the top once the head was off.
The plans for the new motor are:
- Machine and rebuild the head with new guides and seals.
- Replace all wear parts such as chain guides, seals, o-rings, and hardware. More parts will be listed as they are bolted on.
- Install Cometic MLS gasket (part # C-4530-053). Waiting on delivery but taking longer than normal. Anyone have one sitting around?
- Install ARP studs (part # 209-4702, Opel V6) Waiting on delivery but taking longer than normal. Anyone have one sitting around?
- Weld on AN fitting for turbo return line. This is for future addition.
- Rebuild power steering pump.
- Replace water pump.
- Replace cooling system hoses and upgrade to blue fan clutch.
- Pesky heater hose (PHH) with constant torque clamps.
- Heater valve and hoses.
- Replace vacuum lines and vacuum switching valves.
-
Here are some photos of the truck and progress photos. Engine is in really good condition. Shows little to no wear by visual inspection. Anyone interested in a clean short block for a project?
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