BTB makes nice replacement rear crossmember that fits like it should. Nice thick metal too. I have used it along with the corner braces.
Builds Kid-safe 1975 FJ40 build in Washington DC
- Thread starter Kmw1
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you could leave galvanized material uncoated forever if you wanted. Galvanized and then powder coated frames are really nice to work with, just make sure to run a thread chaser through all the holes after.
brian
SILVER Star
Yeah you have really misunderstood what the process entails and what it offers.
- Thread starter
- #64
Ha! I think you may have misunderstood my post. I appreciate your input, and understand the process and it’s benefits perfectly well. The thing that appeals to me most is having all the inaccessible spots treated, not easy with blasting and painting. I would leave it completely unpainted, but I really dont like the look of galvanized frames, I would prefer a traditional black frame. To get good adhesion on galvanized metal it needs to be painted very soon after galvanizing, or a year + after. As I can’t paint at home, I need a shop to do it. Just about anything they spray will be more durable than rattle can - obviously rust prevention is not a concern, but I don’t want a bunch of shiny scratches on the frame.
- Thread starter
- #65
Well, I could not get the cross member quite right. It bent ok, but just doesn’t look good enough. So out it goes.
Took about 45 minutes, I used a combination of grinder and air chisel to remove the heads. Then I drilled the river out about half way and knocked it out with the air hammer. Pretty annoying, but not as bad as I expected. I’ll look for someone local to bend a new one, but will probably just end up going with a BTB product.
Took about 45 minutes, I used a combination of grinder and air chisel to remove the heads. Then I drilled the river out about half way and knocked it out with the air hammer. Pretty annoying, but not as bad as I expected. I’ll look for someone local to bend a new one, but will probably just end up going with a BTB product.
- Thread starter
- #66
Any thoughts on fasteners? Have seen people using carriage bolts, Allen head bolts, and rivets. I would love to use rivets but im not sure how to place a rivet of that size.
brian
SILVER Star
weld it back on.
the back side of the rear shackle hangers need re-welded anyway
the back side of the rear shackle hangers need re-welded anyway
- Thread starter
- #68
I may just do that, plus some carriage bolts in exposed areas for a more stock look.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
I bolted mine back on with button allen heads (for the visible bolts), the shackle hangers and bracket are just bolted as well, but with regular bolts. @White Stripe said his has been just bolted without welding for a while and he wheels his 40 pretty hard.
- Thread starter
- #70
Ended up bolting it in, but made my own “rivet style” bolts by grinding down a 3/8 grade 8 bolt to match the oem rivet head. Looks pretty close, have a few more bolts to go.
- Thread starter
- #71
Slotted the back side of the bolt to fit a flat head driver, helped to set the nut against the lock washer, then the impact wrench did the rest.
- Thread starter
- #72
The crossmember I got from Btb did not have the factory indentations to accommodate the rivets, while I know no one else will ever care or notice, it is all I’ll ever look at. So I cut into a brand new 300$ Bumper and tried welding something larger than 16g sheet metal for the first time. Ended up good enough.
Nowadays there is much more options between. You don’t have to wait, it doesn’t matter.
- Thread starter
- #74
Any recommendations? Ill be getting it dipped in the next week or two, may have a 60degree+ day to paint outside soon.
I used blended phosphoric acid and spray bottle. It started to foam immediately, I let it be couple minutes and washed away. Now you have good surface to paint it with epoxy primer.
A slight sand blasting would be good alternative too.
A slight sand blasting would be good alternative too.
- Thread starter
- #76
Rear crossmember is complete! Ready to be galvanized.
- Thread starter
- #77
Plan is to bring the frame to be galvanized tomorrow. For those of you that have galvanized a frame before, will the stamped vin number still be visible? The guy at the shop seems to think it will not be.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
I searched and found 1 mention
What if you tack weld a plate over the vin, then grind the welds after galvanizing.
What if you tack weld a plate over the vin, then grind the welds after galvanizing.
My galvanizer said it probably will be fine, but I paint it with a few coats of zink and put heat resistant silicone on it. It managed fine.
- Thread starter
- #80
I ended up doing this, but ran a bead around the entire plate. Will be terrible to grind, but the stamp should be safe. Thanks for the recommendation!
