Builds Kid-safe 1975 FJ40 build in Washington DC (1 Viewer)

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After

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Sounds like a blast, I’ve collected many rattle snakes, rabid bats, and all matter of creature in my time, I studied evolutionary biology before becoming a veterinarian and have more snake bites than i care to remember! Like anything potentially dangerous, knowledge and experience are key, when it comes to cars I have neither and plan on leaning heavily on google and the fine folks here on mud, so thanks in advance!
Ah yes; plenty of rattle snake experience in my youth, for no better reason than just being around them a lot and being into reptiles. Scorpions, big ones all over the desert around Phoenix at night. They glow with ultraviolet light, otherwise had no use for them. None the less, I became a veterinarian as well. Coincidence??? One of my partners in practice used to be pretty involved in bat studies in Colorado during college. Even after vet school, he had a strong interest in nasty snakes and owned mambas and s__t, one of which escaped in his moms house for a period of time, only to be found by the cat hissing at it in a corner of the kitchen. This guy still has some pretty amazing reptiles in a section of his house with some huge lizards and snakes but no venomous ones now, that I am aware of.
 
Ah yes; plenty of rattle snake experience in my youth, for no better reason than just being around them a lot and being into reptiles. Scorpions, big ones all over the desert around Phoenix at night. They glow with ultraviolet light, otherwise had no use for them. None the less, I became a veterinarian as well. Coincidence??? One of my partners in practice used to be pretty involved in bat studies in Colorado during college. Even after vet school, he had a strong interest in nasty snakes and owned mambas and s__t, one of which escaped in his moms house for a period of time, only to be found by the cat hissing at it in a corner of the kitchen. This guy still has some pretty amazing reptiles in a section of his house with some huge lizards and snakes but no venomous ones now, that I am aware of.

That is amazing, wonder if the cat rooted it out or if the mamba was after the cat. Had a buddy in college just like yours, he went into venom research and collects venomous snakes all over the globe for a living, I’m not jealous at all. Good to find another vet on mud! Not many of us out there.
 
Lots of grinding today. Tried to install the “gas filler” (not sure what it is really called), but it was about a half cm too small for the opening! I had to cut the filler to make it fit.

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In case anyone was wondering, panels are from Real Steel. The panels all appeared to be great quality, but I have been disappointed with fit. The radius of the quarter panels at the bottom where it sits over the rear cross member and curves from rear to side was not quite right. I could not get it to rest flat against the horns ( it stuck out 1/2 inch and could not be bent because of the angled lip). I eventually heated it with a torch and banged it into submission, but not without dinging the crap out of it. Probably just me not knowing what I am doing!

The gas tank filler thing is another story. Not sure I can explain that poor fit away with lack of experience. The filler was clearly stock with factory welds in place. The panel was from the correct year.
 
So I’ll need to find a painter soon. In the next month or two I should be ready to have the tub blasted and primed (found someone for that). I initially planned on painting myself, but I can not find anywhere to do it! So I’ve decided to pay someone else do the blocking and paint. Any one know of anyone in the dc metro area who would could do an ok job? Not looking for a pro quality job, but if I’m paying, I don’t want it to look bad either! I would also be open to suggestions for paint booth rentals (commercial legit or “private diy”) to spray myself. Can’t do it at home because of the neighbors.
 
Been busy, back log of photos to post. Put everything back together, drilled some holes and welded on lots of mounting brackets and captured nuts. Everything seems to fit ok still.

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Not sure why all those pics loaded, just meant to post the last one! Made a patch panel for the driver side floor pan using heat and some hand tools. Turned out good enough. Will be covered by a mat anyway and it is now solid 16g instead of rusty Swiss cheese.

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Also replied the cut radio slot and returned it to factory dimensions, still need to work out some mounting brackets for the sides, but at least I can insert the factory radio delete plate now.
Also made some new brackets for the jump seats.

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So, found an older 2 stage emglo 10hp compressor, about 2-3 times the compressor I need but the price was right. Was used in a machine shop previously and seems in good working order. Guy listed it as a single phase motor. After moving 1100 pounds of compressor 20 miles by myself, I noticed it was really a three phase! Looks like a VFD would be necessary to run it, would need a massive one, about 15-20hp! A bit impractical. Live and learn I guess. The search continues

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Pulled transfer case with the intention of just replacing seals due to extensive leaking. Most was from the speedo gear I think, but there is a bypass hose between the transmission and transfer case so I suspect the seal is bad there as well.

Gear oil looks clean and the gears visible through the inspection window look to be in good shape. I want to avoid a full rebuild. I plan on painting the case and having the rusty hardware replated.

Question:
I need to leave the transfer case open and emptied of gear oil for a long time to refinish hardware - Will this be a problem?
Should I be worried about dust, rust, humidity while the empty case sits?
Can I just apply new seals and sealant after cleaning mating surfaces and flush with gear oil or solvent (diesel or other) before or after assembly?
 
I'd get it clean and enclose it in plastic... In a box... In a clean area. That'll save you finds flushing it all over again. I'm cheap. Just my 2 cents.
 
Engine is out. Still deciding on galvanizing frame vs painting. The shop that blasted and primed the tub did a terrible job. After not taking pictures of the whole thing in bare metal and clearly pruning some parts without even blasting, they left the entire mess in the rain for a week!!! Already rusted. And tried to charge double for “additional blast media.
Needless to say, it will be redone, and I will need a new shop to do the frame.
Painting at home just isn’t really an option. I found a shop to do the frame but... it will cost me right around 1100$ to galvanize, epoxy prime and urethane top coat the frame. Seems pretty steep. The paint shop quoted me 900 to just blast and paint. Also too much. Guess I’ll keep looking.

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I also have some extensive repair to do on the real cross member, I really don’t want to replace it. There is an unfortunate bend, a crack, and the horns are a mess - lols like they were bent upward toward the tub and the holes for the lights have been widened, perhaps to accept a later model light?

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Why would you galvanize and paint frame?
I can see rattle can black after galvy.
My understanding is it needs to be painted very soon after galvanizing, and the normal quenching step is omitted. My concern with rattle can would be any scratches or chips in the paint would stand out with the shiny metal underneath and be difficult to repaint. Once exposed the galvanized metal would need to sit for a long time before it would accept paint.
Probably not that big a concern, but I only have the frame off once (I hope).
 

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