Build My attempt at bringing another FJ40 back to life

[thebigredrocker]

I am contemplating what to do with my 71 white FJ40. I stopped at a Pacific Pride a few years ago, struck up a conversation with a guy who l had seen driving a cruiser. He said he had sold it and is now restoring a Ford Hi Boy. He also mentioned he'd sell me parts off a 71 he bought for parts. I finished fueling up and asked him if he had thought about selling the whole thing. Well I couldn't pass on the fair price he gave me. At that time I was in the middle of restoring my 76 40 so the White cruiser has just been sitting. The last year it was licensed was 2001. For now I'm thinking I want to keep it rusty looking. My first thought was to see if the engine would turn over so I squirted some Marvel's oil on top of the piston's and let them soak for a week. A few days ago I jumped the starter and the pistons blew oil in my face. I was pleased to see the motor would rotate. So, I pulled the carb and ordered a rebuild kit from Mike's. Currently, it has an electronic fuel pump. Thinking I'll just go ahead and replace it. Right or wrong I'm leaning towards getting a mechanical pump. Even though I don't have plans to do a restoration I figured I'd post up some photo's of my 2nd cruiser.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Here are some pictures of rust areas and the engine bay. Guessing the distributor and alternator are stock. Not sure if I should switch to a different dizzy. Recon I'll soon find out.

 

[thebigredrocker]

 

[roadstr6]

I've seen a whole lot worse. Looks like a great project to me!

 

[micruz60]

For now I'm thinking I want to keep it rusty looking. My first thought was to see if the engine would turn over so I squirted some Marvel's oil on top of the piston's and let them soak for a week. A few days ago I jumped the starter and the pistons blew oil in my face. I was pleased . . .

Looks like a solid rig, and you got this...

 

[cruiserkreutz]

Great find! Nice to see another one saved

 

[Landpimp]

think that is a Delco(GM) dizzy.........which is a ticking time bomb anyway.

 

[thebigredrocker]

think that is a Delco(GM) dizzy.........which is a ticking time bomb anyway.

I was hoping someone would be able to identify it. I have a small list of parts I think will be needed just to fire up the engine. Think I'll add a dizzy to my list. Thanks again.

 

[Landpimp]

thats a pretty complete ole 40, condition(moss and some rot) looks about right for sitting outdoors all its life in WA

my guess is the alt is a GM, the carb may also have been

OEM PTO winch is nice

 

[thebigredrocker]

thats a pretty complete ole 40, condition(moss and some rot) looks about right for sitting outdoors all its life in WA

my guess is the alt is a GM, the carb may also have been

OEM PTO winch is nice

Yeah, I hope to get that winch going someday soon. It is pretty cool. The carb does say aisan on it, so I am going to send it to Marks Offroad Enterprises in Burbank. I spoke with Mark tonight and he gave me the greenlight to send it.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Well, I just Squirted some Marvels in chamber #3 and got 100 psi when I cranked the engine over. I don't recall what their supposed to be. Going to test the others and see what the say. I know my 4WD works. I accindentily had her in reverse when I arced the starter.

 

[thebigredrocker]

These headers were in the back of the cruiser when I bought it. I may never ever get to a point where headers are even a consideration. But if I do, are these possibly for an F.

 

[thebigredrocker]

think that is a Delco(GM) dizzy.........which is a ticking time bomb anyway.

/this\

 

[thebigredrocker]

PO had the #1 plug pointed at the passenger seat. In the picture it's the one with the plug wire pulled. I'm pretty sure that's wrong. Not sure if I should give this dizzy a chance or get one from Marks Offroad.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Also pulled the Aisan appart and cleaned it up.

 

[Coolerman]

The alternator is OEM. However it is wired incorrectly. The only wire that is OEM is the White/Blue wire. It is in the correct position. Don't know what the big red wire is used for but it is not OEM. The PO probably was using it to power something.

The two blue wires: One of them (the one on the left plugged into the F terminal) is probably spliced to a White/Green wire. This wire should go back to the regulator on the drivers side firewall and connect to the F terminal on the regulator. This is the FIELD wire. The regulator monitors the system voltage and using that wire tells the alternator to put out more or less current.

The other blue wire is a mystery. For OEM wiring there should be nothing in the N terminal, UNLESS the PO wired in a charge light. However, if that blue wire is actually spliced to a White/Black wire then you need to move that wire to the top E terminal on the alternator. That terminal is GROUND and it's a critical ground! It should go from the alternator E terminal to the regulator E terminal. This wire ensures that the regulator and alternator are at the same ground potential. If that blue wire was used to wire in a charge light then you need to run a separate wire from the alternator E terminal to the regulator E terminal. If should be at least 16ga wire.

At the regulator there should be a ring terminal that goes under one of the regulator mounting bolts. This ring terminal will have two White/Black wires in it. One goes to the Alternator E terminal, the other to the main cowl harness ground. This is the single most important ground on your whole truck! It provides ground for the Head lights, Emissions computer, VSV, wipers, and heater blower.

 

[Coolerman]

Oh one more thing: I have a 2/71 FJ40 that I have been documenting the "restovication" for years. See a link to my web site in my sig line.

As a side job, I do wiring for these old trucks. I can make up a replacement harness section that goes between the regulator and alternator and will have the correct plug in connector for the alternator. You would un-tape the harness from the alternator back to the regulator, remove the two old small wires between the alternator and regulator and replace with the new ones. The large White/BLue wire would remain. Tape it back up, plug in the new alternator connector and go! When you get to that point if you want that fixed, just send me a PM...

 

[thebigredrocker]

Coolerman I greatly appreciate your willingness to give help to those of us in need. I definately have hopes of properly addressing the wiring in this ol' cruiser. I am in no rush though and I know you have other irons in the fire. I started taking pictures of all the cut wire. I may study some diagrams and figure out what I need to fix it. Thanks again

 

[thebigredrocker]

Well, I went and did something foolish. I attempted to fix my 1971 window regulator that should have been turned into scrap. I spent way to much time on a part that could have been replaced for $40. Granted not OEM. So as I was nearing completion of my foolish project I had time to ponder WHY?

Well, My grandfather was raised on a farm during some tough times. His dad died when he was 13 and since he was the oldest boy he quit school to keep things afloat. He had to learn to fix stuff on his own and fabricate his own parts. He was later trained by the Army as a heavy diesel mechanic in WWII. Eventually the Army made him an instructor. He went on to start his own logging business and was able to operate on next to nothing. I suppose he was sort of a "Gyppo logger". He was barely making ends meat, so he went to work as a mechanic for hire. He had a mobile service truck and did pretty well. Of course like many mechanics, he was taken advantage of at times. He would give the shirt off his back to someone in need. As a kid, I remember watching him work on his own stuff and it killed him to have to buy parts. I often concluded in my mind he shoulda just sprung for the new $20 part and saved himself hours of frustration(and cussing) and another impending breakdown. In my mind my grandpa could fix anything, anywhere, with any tools. He often did. But, I always told myself I would buy the proper parts and save myself all the hastle. Well, I didn't tonight.

I ground down the rivet using my handy Dremel EZ lock cutting disk. I hit the plate with some heat and punched out the shaft.

The teeth are worn. I thought about adding some tack welds to build the teeth back up. I didn't but may do that later on.

 

[thebigredrocker]

I drilled and tapped the shaft

To get the window crank handle off I ground the rivots and punched them out.

The crank gear lifted out so I opted to shim it in hopes the teeth would better engauge.

The top hole was easy to get a 4mm bolt and nut tightened up. I drilled two new holes above the fan shaped sprocket thingy. The OEM rivot holes woulda been a bugger to get bolts in. Grandpa woulda welded that handle on

I used a big washer to span the notched shaft and a smaller washer to suck the sprocket arm up tight. My fix seems to be working on the "bench test". Not sure how it will work once installed. I'll soon find out.