- Thread starter
- #81
Only read this after welding a plate over it. Probably would have been better.
Builds Kid-safe 1975 FJ40 build in Washington DC (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Kmw1
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Got the frame back from Baltimore galvanizing. Looks pretty good, there is still some junk/zinc globs that settled on the frame and will be impossible to get off. The vin held up well under the tack welded plate though.
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- #83
Off to the painter tomorrow. Should have it back in a week. Seems like a real milestone as I will actually start assembling rather than disassembling. I’ve amassed a large number of parts to send out for yellow zinc plating. I was going to blast them, but I think it will leave the parts looking dull after plating - not necessarily a bad look, just hadnt really considered it until now. Anyone have some pics of zinc plated hardware after blasting vs wire wheeling/tumbling? Any recommendations or preferences for hardware prep out there?
Subscribed...as a fellow DC area owner (other side of the river) in the same boat, just picked up a '78 that am making kid-safe (and fun) will be good to watch your progress and exchange notes on DC area shops/resources
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- Thread starter
- #85
Mustard is one of the best colors, yours looks like a solid truck. Let me know if you need any parts, I have some extras lying around.
guess it’s time to pick a color mine, ive been putting it off. Initially Iwas thinking fashion, nebula, or spring green, but I’ve since settled on olive green, also known as baby poop green. I know its not the original Cygnus white, but I only really like the whites after they develop some patina-not in the cards for this one.
Olive is solid color choice, unlike baby poop (sorry, bad dad joke but had to).
Can't wait to see the outcome!
Can't wait to see the outcome!
- Thread starter
- #87
Frame is done, will be delivered by the painter tomorrow. Considering what a mess the galvanizing made, he did a really good job. Still some zinc boogers, and the surface is not particularly smooth... but it’s not a show quality build, and it will never rust. The plate welded over the vin did a great job protecting it, but it was tricky grinding it off - almost looks welded in now! At least the back side (and this thread) proves that it wasn’t! All and all it is good enough.
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- #88
Urethane top coat
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- #89
Painter is awesome, used epoxy primer and urethane topcoat in satin, reasonable price and he is driving it 1hour + to drop it off at my door. He will be doing the rest of the paint as well. Had some other parts blasted and primed, lots of rust surprises.
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- #90
Also blasted a bunch of small stuff. Using a modified harbor freight cabinet and their 5 hp 2 stage compressor. Purchased after lots of reviews told me not to... it is my favorite tool by far. Not sure how other cabinets differ, but it works great and doesn’t leak at all. I’m using a shop vac and dust cyclone and sealed the cabinet with polyurethane calk. The compressor is loud as hell, but keeps up for the most part... for less than 800$ it is just fine. Even the gun works well enough. I’ve never used a more expensive set up, but this was well worth the money. There is nothing more relaxing and satisfying than blasting 45 years of accumulated paint and rust from a part and having it come out like new - a very zen-like experience.
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- #91
Not sure what to do about the hinges. Looks like they were plated and the rubber is shot. They were rusty, so I blasted them, zinc and all. Should I replate them? Paint and calk? Any source for new rubber? Also considered quick hinges but they are really expensive.
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- #92
Got played.
Painter started with the tub... underneath the primer (where there should have been fresh steel since it was blasted) was paint and rust. The “blaster” just sanded a bit and primed over everything. Wtf. Can’t really do anything about it since everything is locked down because of Coronavirus. Just going to have to have it done again and pay double. There is no way I’m paying to have it blocked and painted with rust underneath.
Painter started with the tub... underneath the primer (where there should have been fresh steel since it was blasted) was paint and rust. The “blaster” just sanded a bit and primed over everything. Wtf. Can’t really do anything about it since everything is locked down because of Coronavirus. Just going to have to have it done again and pay double. There is no way I’m paying to have it blocked and painted with rust underneath.
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- #93
Well the build continues... wire wheeled the engine, metal prep, prime and paint. Used rattlecan duplicolor engine epoxy. Went ok, but the primer went on a bit flakey - I had to wire brush between coats to get it smooth with good adhesion. Pics in steel and after metal prep.
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- #94
Rinse, and 3 coats of primer, 3 coats of gloss black. Next I will replace rear main and all gaskets. I’m sure I’ll need to rebuild at some point, but I am moving in June and need the engine on the frame to move it, plus I wat to get it driving ASAP.
'spot weld breaker" can you give me information. I found spot weld cutter Amazon product ASIN B01A8Q3M9Q and this Amazon product ASIN B008M22P3S
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
I was curious so checked as well... Maybe this
Lisle 51900 Spot Weld Chisel Amazon product ASIN B000BQXBJK
Lisle 51900 Spot Weld Chisel Amazon product ASIN B000BQXBJK
To keep rust away on a steel tub in the north east is going to be tough. All the spot welded seams will need to be seam sealed. You will also want to try to get some sort of coating between the spot welds in the seams. All the enclosed channels you will want to coat on the inside, a steel 40 body has many. When I moved to the North East I didn't bring my 40. It's a harsh environment. Galvanizing the frame is a good move.
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- #98
That’s the one. I used the air chisel for a few but it is a bit thick for the sheet metal.
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- #99
Yeah, I used weld through primer for most areas, epoxy for some ( like the wheel well supports). Don’t use the cheap stuff, welds terribly.
iptman
SILVER Star
That's a bad beat on the painter. There's a guy out in Lucketts VA who has a mobile media blasting service. Might be a good idea to blast everything then take it to the next painter.
