Builds Kid-safe 1975 FJ40 build in Washington DC (1 Viewer)

[Kmw1]

That's a bad beat on the painter. There's a guy out in Lucketts VA who has a mobile media blasting service. Might be a good idea to blast everything then take it to the next painter.

I’ll look him up, thanks for the referral. The painter is great, it’s the blaster who screwed me over (although I guess he’s more of a painter than a blaster, since mostly he just painted). The truck is in good hands at the moment - a real honest and decent guy. He is trying to find a blaster to do the job - but no one will take it because of Coronavirus related closures.
As a last resort I’ll have him DA the areas that were not blasted and start in the body work. Either way I want to make sure this lasts another 45 years.

 

[Kmw1]

Degreased, sanded, and polished the calve cover. Lots of work, used a Dremel to knock down gouges and then sanded with 300-2000 grit sand paper. Can’t tell in the pic, but it is getting close to a mirror finish. May work on it a few more hours or just leave it. Waiting for warmer weather to paint the side panel.

 

[Kmw1]

I’m pretty sure the blue paint inside the engine is not original. May be needed more than paint and gaskets after all.

 

[FJDonny]

Kmw1- nice build and thank you for sharing. I just finished my valve cover as well. Spent hours on it. Did the intake manifold as well.

 

[FJDonny]

Have a build site if you are interested. FJDonny

 

[Kmw1]

Have a build site if you are interested. FJDonny

Nice build ynnodf, sucks about your welder, guess we all get screwed over when we try to go cheap. The cover and manifold looks great - I’m trying to figure out what to do with my manifold and headers as well. I am hesitant on painting because I’ve heard some issues with the “high temp” paint out there not being high temp enough. Any one have any road experience with a particular brand?

 

[FJDonny]

many don’t take the time to bake in the paint. Have to bake it at 300 degrees for 30 minutes. Then let sit. Then bake at 450 and then let sit and then bake at 500. So you have to follow the directions to the letter.

 

[FJDonny]

As for the exhaust header, I’m going to swap out and get the SOR header exhaust system.

 

[Kmw1]

Question...
Any one know a good source for an engine gasket kit? Lots of aftermarket options out there some “made in Japan” but not a lot of OEM options. Cruiser corps has one for right around 400, which is just too much. Are there some seals that should definitely be oem and some that it doesn’t really matter?

 

[Kmw1]

Nooooo! Degreased the transfer case and found a hairline crack!!!! What are my options... TIG weld? Replace housing? Should I just replace? I’ll open it up later today to check the inside but I fear the worst

 

[John Smith]

Well you now have a perfect excuse to buy an Orion transfer case.

 

[archie73]

Well you now have a perfect excuse to buy an Orion transfer case.

That’s what I did. Honestly, for wheeling I love it. I got the 4:1 gears and knowing that it’s cast iron is nice. If yours is more of a street rig, I’d stay stock. Oem will be cheaper and easier.

 

[Kmw1]

Started in on the rear main seal. Removed oil pan and #4 bearing cap, popped out easily (thank you poser)!
Do I need sealant where the bearing cap meets the block? Seems like I should put some there - but there is no evidence of old sealant there, nothing in the FSM.
Also, for the rear main seal itself - sealant? grease? nothing?

 

[Kmw1]

My sealent question is about the areas circled in red.

 

[pb4ugo]

Ive rebuilt many engines but never a Toyota. Typically, no sealant goes between bearing caps. It wiil effect bearing clearances.

 

[Kmw1]

Ive rebuilt many engines but never a Toyota. Typically, no sealant goes between bearing caps. It wiil effect bearing clearances.

Thanks pb4uo, I’ll hold off on the sealant and torque bolts appropriately. How about the rear main seal? Can’t get a clear answer on dry install vs oil. I know some people pack the seal toward the front of the engine, but I’ve read that some recommend a thin coat of oil on all the sealing surfaces, and some say lubricating the sealing surface is a really bad idea.

 

[pb4ugo]

I usually lubricate the ID of a seal.

 

[Kmw1]

rear main and oil pan seal went in smoothly - torqued bolts to 80 inch pounds with no gasket squishing out ( I did 90 on the 4 corner bolts, they seem to need a little extra to squeeze around the caps). The side cover did not go quite as well - only torqued to 35 inch pounds and the gasket is bulging a little at each bolt head, not sure if the gasket is still ok or split, guess I’ll find out in a few years when I try to start it up.

 

[Kmw1]

Started on the thermostat and housing. Used the sous vide to test. FSM says 8mm at 203F, still works.

 

[Kmw1]

Any one know if the factory bolts were zinc or cadmium plated?