Builds Fly By Night (62 Viewers)

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I know from past experience putting a V8 in a cruiser, any V8 will make you giddy with power and have your foot in it more often than not. When you conquer the urge to bump the throttle you'll see a mpg increase. These modern Chevy motors have their sheet worked out. I said look for the lowest mileage LS motor you can find.

All this talk about fuel economy, ha ha!

We are driving Land Cruisers Baby. Anything above 15 MPG is a bonus!
 
I was once passed by a Suzuki Grand Vitara pulling a pop-up camper on a 6% grade.

Ha ha!

The first time my wife and I went to Cruise Moab, we were driving our bone stock 40 on 29s. We kept jockeying for position with a Geo Metro the whole way up to Eisenhower tunnel.
 
The projected mph with my tank and a Jerry can I should get near 700 miles. That's enough to cross any state with the exception of a handful. Especially the middle states being only 5 degrees of latitude.
 
WTF is dat?? Must be a diesel 🤔 4bt meybee
I6 that came in the last of the great Supras.
Came from the factory w/ close to 300 HP, and I have seen built ones make close to 900 HP - that would be an angry Pig!
 
Stan at Hardline Fabrication Services (HFS) in Chesnee, SC just recently pulled the good running 2F out of this absolutely stunning '79 pig for an LS swap. Stan does LS swaps into cruisers for a living, and even he flinched a little when the owner showed up with this fine pig wanting to swap it. The owner insisted,"LS power or I'm selling it." LS it is. I would have kept it Toyota, but in all honesty, a well done LS swap doesn't seem to hurt the resale these days. Swapped pigs and 60 series trucks are fetching big numbers on BaT...and they have got to be so much fun to drive as well.

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Stan could have called his bluff and offered to buy it!
Start over w/ a non-'79 for LS swap...
 
Was hoping you would chime in ‘Doomer. I’m not sure what date the change was made from the body mounted tanks to the frame mounted, but my 77 is frame mounted via four pedestals. The inner frame width in this area is ~34-11/16”. The mounting holes in the pedestals span out at 34-1/2”. With the tank mounting flanges protruding somewhere between 1/4” - 1/2” beyond that on each side, if removed out the bottom it will still have to zig-zag from side to side to get out.
I was wondering about the large rectangular hole you had to cut out later on and if you think it’s a good idea to provision for that. It was for laying down a filter/mat at the bottom of the tank for the pump to draw from, correct?
My '74 is body mounted.
 
It seems that most are body mounted. Was thinking about setting the stock tank back on the frame so people can see how that setup works.
Please do! I would like to see that!

I am wondering if the body-mounted contributes to the tear in the top of the tank?
I have my stock tank (torn), and then the replacement tank from Ige @nuclearlemon is in the Pig, but I wonder if I have torn that tank, as I have a gassy smell by the Pig when it gets warm.
I need to check the fuel sender to make sure the screws are tight.
I think I will take the torn tank in to the radiator shop for repair and cleaning.
It would be cool to put that tank back in and hang the spare tire carrier back under the Pig. It did not want to fit w/ the replacement tank for some reason.

You are definitely doing it the right way - take the body off, as it was a pain to drop the tank from underneath!
 
Is there a preference to having it hanging on the body? I my case having to mount that big ass tank on the frame without the body on was a blessing. With frame mounting you could position it better and get dead nuts with the filler neck.
 
No, not any preference, just some confusion. I think if I had a body mounted tank, I’d be interested in seeing another way to mount it. Everyone seems to run into issues with the body mounted tanks, most notably, broken bolts.
 
Not completely sure about which filter. Definitely going with the single output line. Had been thinking something dependable and simple like the late 80’s early 90’s GM TBI filters with the hex flare-nut fittings. 3/8” line I think.
That is what I am using.
Cheaper than $44/each!
Except my mounting is not all that it could be. It would be nice to tidy things up this year!
 
I'm not familiar with citric acid passivation but reading this article sounds like it might be a good option for you.


Man, passivating stainless steel - you guys are always teaching me new things!

@J Mack - did you go w/ aluminum for your tank?

I would think a 40 gallon tank made of stainless is going to have some weight to it!
 
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So what I was just looking at was that there isn’t an integrated fuel level sending unit. It kinda looks like you’re supposed to run a separate sending unit.
Hyper Fuel also carries some regulators and inline filters. Want to set the regulator near the tank so there’s just a short return line and only the supply running to the engine. IIRC this is easier to achieve with the ‘03 and later LS intake fuel rails.(?)
 
Do you need a return line for your 5.3 or 6.0L?
Not on the later models. Mine is an 04 and it only needs the return from the pressure regulator which should be as close to the tank as possible. The older models have the fuel return up on the block. I'm not sure where the change happened though.

IIRC this is easier to achieve with the ‘03 and later LS intake fuel rails.(?)

You might be right.
 

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