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Any concerns with cracking at the welds?
Whats the plan for passivating 304 stainless after you weld it?
I'm not familiar with citric acid passivation but reading this article sounds like it might be a good option for you.
How To Passivate Stainless Steel Parts
After making sure parts are machined to spec, here's how to take steps to protect those stainless steel parts through passivation.
I just took a quick measurement on my tank @ 31", but mine bolts to the frame rails and has all the vents and filler neck coming out on driver's side.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
I would Tig weld it! If seams are tight enough I fuse it only. Thats how I used to weld gas grille hoods and stainless water pipe in laundry mats.
Second this, I would also brake a 90° corner on the top and bottom where the sides meet to (A) double the weld joint and (B) help control warpage with a few plug welds first and keep the joints tight.
I'm not going to chime in on the welding. I think there are more experts here.
But the fuel pump looks really tall. I used a Camaro pump and I still had lower the front of the tank an inch. I made my tank 9.5in deep.
If you get a early 2003 Vortec you will have fuel return from the motor. If you get later you need a corvette filter like what Ron posted. Thats what I got too.
But the fuel pump looks really tall. I used a Camaro pump and I still had lower the front of the tank an inch. I made my tank 9.5in deep.
If you get a early 2003 Vortec you will have fuel return from the motor. If you get later you need a corvette filter like what Ron posted. Thats what I got too.
On this picture from my first fuel tank attempt you can see the plug welds on the sides, I used self tapping screws to hold the tank together and tacked everything then removed the screws and plug welded the sides to the broke corners before I finished welding the rest of the tank. Very little warpage and stronger weld joints if you can make this work with your design.
Man, I'm learning a lot here today. I never knew about passivating metal. That is a good article J Mack. 
I do keep a small spool of stainless mig wire here for small jobs, but I've never attempted a fuel tank.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,494
I was thinking about bending 1/4” - 1/2” flanges on the two side pieces. Seems like it would be stronger that way.
I can also go with the TIG welding. I’ve MIG welded stainless before (quite a while ago), and had just thought I’d go that route since I have a MIG, but I do have a source to use a TIG.
I can also go with the TIG welding. I’ve MIG welded stainless before (quite a while ago), and had just thought I’d go that route since I have a MIG, but I do have a source to use a TIG.
MY New welder can tig but the owner can't. Or at least its been 20+ years. I was going to get some rod and mess up a few things to get the feel back. I wouldn't start with stainless tho. From what I understand it is more difficult than alum or mild.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
. Especially if you have a source and the experience! I wouldn't flange it, it will be strong enough with the baffles in it. Form like
At 0.075 id cross break the top and bottom. My aluminum is thicker than that and I wish the bottom was stiffer.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Could slot and tab depending on how you are going to make the parts
