Builds Fly By Night (22 Viewers)

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Then, finally, got cracking at these spring hangers I’ve been obsessing over. Early this week, I had another epiphany on a type of material I probably would have never considered using in a fabrication project like this. Some welders/fabricators may find this idea unusual or laughable, but I’m pretty excited about it honestly. I’m gonna use some 4”x8”x1/4” “H”-beam for the inner sides of the spring and shackle hangers. I was able to whittle out the first one today.

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Good thinking on using what you have, turned out nice to boot. On your rear crossmember, are you running some diagonal braces from it to the frame?
 
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Good thinking on using what you have, turned out nice to boot. On your rear crossmember, or you running some diagonal braces from it to the frame?

Thanks Ron!
Yes, there will be diagonal bracing and a piece of 3/8” plate on the bottom side tying them together and providing additional beef directly below where the receiver tube will go through the works.
 
It’s been pretty busy the last few days. Been able to get some bits and pieces in on the Cruiser between waiting on the little dove to wake up between noon an 1, after working her night shifts, and nightfall, when it gets too dark to cut or grind and have to go up and work on the shower.
Got all the suspension pieces cut out, just need to carve them down.
Here are the inner shackle hanger pieces cut out, with some custom drill press action.

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Yes, maybe a little bit. Something I’m trying to keep in mind is a lower profile for the shackle hanger in the front for the shackle reversal. Actually looking to have a 1-1/2” - 2” difference between the spring hanger bolt in the front and the lower shackle bolt, with the shackle bolt being the lower hanging, and the front hanger being higher. This is something of a constant I’ve found across the board with leaf spring setups. My previous setup was the opposite. Once I get those heights, everything will be set in line - spring arch, length, driveshaft angle, caster.
 
All morning, for hours, I did lay-out. Suspension pieces, rear x-member layout, and then, thought I’d start the planning stage for the gas tank. Got a bunch of measurements off the old tank and started comparing them to what’s possible in the space without having to notch crossmembers and all that. I don’t really want a huge 50 -60 gallon tank, but would like something that comes down close to flush with the bottom of the frame. Also want the new in-tank fuel pump accessible through the original sending unit access door in the rear cargo area.
The original tank is a total of 6” deep, with 2-1/2” of those inches above the seam/mount. From the top of the rear pedestal to the bottom of the frame measures 8”, which means the tank COULD be 10-1/2” deep total to be flush with the bottom of the frame..... except towards the front where the frame ascends upwards in its archway over the rear axle. This would leave a portion of the tank exposed or possibly in conflict with the upward travel of the rear pumpkin.
So, question to those with oversized tanks - what kind of clearance do you have at the most forward point of the tank and the rear axle? Coincidentally, this would be the area where the pump would sit.
Also, would a 10-1/2” depth be plenty enough for the in-tank fuel pump?

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All morning, for hours, I did lay-out. Suspension pieces, rear x-member layout, and then, thought I’d start the planning stage for the gas tank. Got a bunch of measurements off the old tank and started comparing them to what’s possible in the space without having to notch crossmembers and all that. I don’t really want a huge 50 -60 gallon tank, but would like something that comes down close to flush with the bottom of the frame. Also want the new in-tank fuel pump accessible through the original sending unit access door in the rear cargo area.
The original tank is a total of 6” deep, with 2-1/2” of those inches above the seam/mount. From the top of the rear pedestal to the bottom of the frame measures 8”, which means the tank COULD be 10-1/2” deep total to be flush with the bottom of the frame..... except towards the front where the frame ascends upwards in its archway over the rear axle. This would leave a portion of the tank exposed or possibly in conflict with the upward travel of the rear pumpkin.
So, question to those with oversized tanks - what kind of clearance do you have at the most forward point of the tank and the rear axle? Coincidentally, this would be the area where the pump would sit.
Also, would a 10-1/2” depth be plenty enough for the in-tank fuel pump?

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I did a 9 inch depth. The thing I did not know until it was late was the body is not forgiving for a in tank pump. You dont have room for the tubes to come out. I had to put a spacer to drop it down an inch.
 
So you’re talking about the supply and return lines coming out of the top of the pump? You probably wouldn’t recall what your clearance ended up being after that operation? Did you or someone build a custom tank?
 
I designed the tank and had a company make it. If you got to page 7/8 of my build that's when i was posting about it. When I mention the clearance a few people chimed in with the same issue.
 
I'll have to do some measuring today on mine. I also have a one inch body lift, but my tank is stepped down in the front, if I remember correct.
 

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