Its come up good so far!
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- Thread starter
- #722
Kinda somewhat got maybe half a step forward this weekend. Cut a 3/16” thick outer scab plate for the driver side, as both frame reinforcement for the steering box and an outer scab for the new spring hangers. Before tacking anything in place I decided to mock up the Scout box and the Ford shock tower that I made removable, like how the OEM Armstrong steering box/shock mount was removable. So now I’m wondering - is it necessary for the driver side shock mount to be removable with the direction this is going?
Does anyone have any thoughts about this? I guess as long as the steering box fittings and shaft coupler is accessible from above (with a 5.3 installed) then there shouldn’t be a problem with just welding it in place and being done with it.
Unfortunately, the plate I made is about 2” too short, so I’ll need to make another.
Does anyone have any thoughts about this? I guess as long as the steering box fittings and shaft coupler is accessible from above (with a 5.3 installed) then there shouldn’t be a problem with just welding it in place and being done with it.
Unfortunately, the plate I made is about 2” too short, so I’ll need to make another.
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- #723
Picked up a section of 2”x4”x3/16” rectangle tubing to make a rear crossmember as well as the new spring hanger mounts from. Put a little time in on that. That’s the half step I was referring to earlier.
A couple questions because I can't remember it. Are you running a FJ60 axle and plan on using the sway bar? If so, make sure you have room to weld the sway bar bracket that goes right behind the shock tower. I ran a little tight on the driver's side. Your's might be different with using the Scout box as I stayed Toyota.
I would wait and weld them after you have your axles mounted and shocks in hand.
You're going to want all of your suspension travel and don't want your shocks to be the limiting factor in either direction. If you plan to use the factory lower shock mount on top of the housing your only option when using longer shocks is to adjust the upper mount.
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- #727
Roger that, sounds like a good plan
Wouldn't hurt to hold off on the steering box too, in hindsight I would have mounted my Scout box 1/4" further forward.
The ball joint on my drag link will rub on my tie rod if I turn hard in one direction and the wheel is fully stuffed, not a big enough issue to move my box now after the fact and I don't believe it has ever hit in real life driving but I can make them rub when flexing it here in the shop and wish it didn't.
At least there is one benefit to procrastinating...I get to see how your doing it.
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- #733
Some interesting things of note - for a metric vehicle, I sure have found many instances where measurements come out to American inches.
I marked where the hanger pins lined vertically with the frame with some punch marks. On the front, the plan is to have custom springs made 2” longer than stock. I placed a mark 1” forward of where the pin sat with the MAF shackle reversal, which took it from 6-1/2” from the front of the frame, to 5-1/2”.
Also got a measurement of 29-1/4” center to center of the spring center-bolt recess holes on the spring perches. The front of the frame measures 28-7/8”, but perfectly 29-1/4” with 3/16” fish plates on either side. So then, the center of the hanger mounts will basically sit dead even with the outside edge of the frame.
Also noticed that the stock outside hole for the factory pin is 1-1/2” in diameter and is set 1-1/2” on center with the outside of the closest edge.
I marked where the hanger pins lined vertically with the frame with some punch marks. On the front, the plan is to have custom springs made 2” longer than stock. I placed a mark 1” forward of where the pin sat with the MAF shackle reversal, which took it from 6-1/2” from the front of the frame, to 5-1/2”.
Also got a measurement of 29-1/4” center to center of the spring center-bolt recess holes on the spring perches. The front of the frame measures 28-7/8”, but perfectly 29-1/4” with 3/16” fish plates on either side. So then, the center of the hanger mounts will basically sit dead even with the outside edge of the frame.
Also noticed that the stock outside hole for the factory pin is 1-1/2” in diameter and is set 1-1/2” on center with the outside of the closest edge.
What's your plan for shackles?
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- #736
Been eyeing these shackles from CCOT.
www.coolcruisers.com
Shackles - HFS™ - Barbell Lift
Shackles - HFS™ - Barbell Lift - "Hell for Stout" are the Best Looking, overbuilt "H" style Shackles on the Market. CCOT has designed and built a super heavy duty 1-1/2" & 2-1/2" "Hell for Stout" lift shackle exclusively for FJ40, FJ60 and FJ62s. These Shackles are made by CCOT and available...
SOA or SUA?
A couple things to think about, I lengthened my front springs about 1.5 to 2 inches from memory and moved my axle forward about an inch, I was trying to use aftermarket Toyota longer shackles and no combination worked for both drooped and compressed so after several attempts of trial and error I finally sat down and did the math.
Again all this is from memory but I believe the ideal shackle length was going to be around 7” eye to eye with my springs at my travel and the Toyota aftermarket “longer” shackles were around 3” to 3.5”, I spent way too much time and money fighting this combination trying to make off the shelf parts work that mutable guys told me would work.
A fast, easy, good, option is the Liquid Iron Industries slider kit, had I been smart I would have just added a set of these and save a bunch of time and money but I had some unfounded concerns and went down a different path.
Liquid Iron Industries Universal Slider Box Kit
***** Current Lead Time is 2-3 Weeks Until Stock Is Rebuilt*****The Liquid Iron Industries Universal Slider Box Kits are designed to significantly stabilize long travel leaf spring suspensions on practically any vehicle. These slider boxes completely replace the standard shackle configuration...
liquidironindustries.com
If you want to follow my path and abandon the Toyota guy network and jump over to the off-road racing guy forums and study what they do to make leaf springs work in off road racing applications, I not saying I have a racing pig now nor am I implying you are building one either but they know how to get the most out of a set of springs and I learned quite a bit from them. I’m getting right around the full 10” of travel at my shocks, shackles are never close to inverting and my Pig has a great off & on road manners.
- Thread starter
- #740
I’ve mulled this over a lot in the last year on how might be the best way to run this suspension to cover as many bases as possible. The overall plan is a redesigned version of what was already going on. Shackle reversal front, but less hanger height than the MAF kit, slightly longer shackles than the MAF SR kit. The custom spring profile will only need to be slightly different than the MAF Safari springs that were there. None of the hangers will be welded solid until an adequate amount of weight is piled on the frame and tub to simulate the rig’s GVW, and then flexed around with whatever I need to verify shackle angles and whatever else.
As long as Alcan is still in business, that is who I’m planning to use to build the springs. Been in love with the rear springs they made for me 12 years ago. Even if I have to drive my old springs up to Grand Jct. to ensure there is nothing lost in translation. May have to go crash at Jim and Bonnie’s.
As long as Alcan is still in business, that is who I’m planning to use to build the springs. Been in love with the rear springs they made for me 12 years ago. Even if I have to drive my old springs up to Grand Jct. to ensure there is nothing lost in translation. May have to go crash at Jim and Bonnie’s.