What kind of mirror are you going to?
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Busy day. Are you making your own harness or an aftermarket?
RUSH55
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- #144
I’m undecided on that ATM. The factory buss bar is looking kind of haggard and has been a bit of a PITA over the years due to dust/dirt and corrosion on the connectors. Plus, I’m planning on installing a cs130 alternator along with a dual battery setup which is going to require a few modifications. Would rather not spend $500 on a new harness, but may end up being the way to go.
RUSH55
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- #145
So here’s a question for the sty...
Why did Toyota mount the upper front seatbelt mounts so far back?
Would it seem illogical or a bad move from a safety standpoint, to move the upper mount to the B-Pillar, around the area where the two upper holes are? Every vehicle built in the last 20 years has positioned the front upper seatbelt mounts in this area.
Does anyone think a plate (say, 14 ga.) with a nut welded to the back side, fully welded into this area, would NOT be sufficient, from a safety standpoint?
Why did Toyota mount the upper front seatbelt mounts so far back?
Would it seem illogical or a bad move from a safety standpoint, to move the upper mount to the B-Pillar, around the area where the two upper holes are? Every vehicle built in the last 20 years has positioned the front upper seatbelt mounts in this area.
Does anyone think a plate (say, 14 ga.) with a nut welded to the back side, fully welded into this area, would NOT be sufficient, from a safety standpoint?
I changed mine, here's some pictures and I'll try to find it in my thread. I hired an expensive actor to model the seatbelt fit. 
No comments!
No comments!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
How many Emmies does this actor have 
.
.
Too many to list, he doesn't like to talk about them.
When in doubt if I’m going to modify safety equipment from factory on a factory vehicle I’ll look at the guide lines of FIA or SFI.
SFI says Shoulder Belt Angle: 0 to -20° (-10° optimum) from horizontal
Seat Belts | SFI Foundation
I thought SFI said a seat belt anchor point backing plate should be fashioned out of a piece of 11-gauge steel with an area of about 6 square inches minimum but I can’t quickly find that info to post as fact so take it as speculation.
At the bottom of the pillar is the opening for the door bolts I just wire fished the plate up the pillar, you can see the wire in the one picture. If you're talking about the threads in the floor, that is an 11mm, not sure of pitch. I can't remember what size bolt I used for the shoulder bolt.
Factory bolts I believe are 11mm 1.25 pitch, not easy to find a good variety of hardware in this size.
7/16” – 20 is virtually the same and much easier to find. Just convert them over unless you have a specific reason to keep everything metric.
1.25 pitch = 0.04921 pitch in inches
20 Thread Per Inch = 0.05000 pitch in inches
11mm = .4331”
7/16” = .4375”
RUSH55
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- #153
Sitting in the front seat, I’d say that the position on the pillar would meet that requirement (3 - 5 degrees?). It also opens up a new world of seatbelt replacement options.
I recently scoured a local scrap yard looking for a seatbelt that would be sufficiently long enough for the 55 mounted in its factory location. The closest thing I found to be long enough was out of a late ‘90’s Dodge 3500 Passenger Van, which by the way, have these 6”(?) long extensions on the upper mounts.
I recently scoured a local scrap yard looking for a seatbelt that would be sufficiently long enough for the 55 mounted in its factory location. The closest thing I found to be long enough was out of a late ‘90’s Dodge 3500 Passenger Van, which by the way, have these 6”(?) long extensions on the upper mounts.
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Get some 12mm x 1.25 and you'll be good.
RUSH55
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- #160
Rear bumper off
The rear bumper has gone thru a couple of similar versions. The first version was great, pretty much everything I wanted at the time. I ended up tearing it off trying to jerk a Poplar stump out of my front yard. The successor was modeled after the first, but never completed. Both were 6” x 1/4” channel. I was able to salvage the tube sliders and weld them to the second. Pretty basic, all function, not much form, design that was pretty effective for what I used to do. The older, wiser version of myself is planning on something better.
What’s crazy is how high the pig is sitting without the heavy sliders, bumper, and interior fare.
The rear bumper has gone thru a couple of similar versions. The first version was great, pretty much everything I wanted at the time. I ended up tearing it off trying to jerk a Poplar stump out of my front yard. The successor was modeled after the first, but never completed. Both were 6” x 1/4” channel. I was able to salvage the tube sliders and weld them to the second. Pretty basic, all function, not much form, design that was pretty effective for what I used to do. The older, wiser version of myself is planning on something better.
What’s crazy is how high the pig is sitting without the heavy sliders, bumper, and interior fare.
