Builds Fly By Night (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Crazy idea, but why don't you shop a running 5.3L (I seem to recall that's what you are running) and continue on getting it on the road while your engine is in the machine shop? I understand that most good machine shops are many months behind. I see complete 5.3L advertised for $500 or so all the time. Once your engine is built just the way you want, you simply swap engines. Then sell the one taken out for a little less than you paid. Keep up that momentum!
 
That’s a good idea. Thought about pulling another Vortec at the U Pick It just to have another. Also thought about throwing this one back together and trading it in as a core on a crate LS, since it will end up costing the same anyways.
BUT,
I’ve got a plan I’m working out. There’s still a ton of work that can be done in the meantime while the engine is off getting built.
 
Thank you @Lifelong40Fan and @bobm , that helps me out.

More “What Did You Do To Your Cruiser Today?” posts, as today I knocked out a couple small things.
The first was the transfer-case twin-stick project which has been a process eliminating what wasn’t working and re-engineering something that would. When I picked up the NV4500/split-case combo, it had a couple pieces of linkage, and what is possibly an Advance Adapters shifter mount which is a piece of 1/4” plate with four mounting holes, a couple of bends, and an interestingly fabricated 5/8” bolt (shaft) with 1/2” x 13 threaded end coming out of the head (opposite of the shaft) and threading into the plate, the threaded end of the 5/8” bolt was turned down to 3/8” x 16 to secure the stick(s) to the bolt (shaft). Anyways, with the twin stick blocks I made installed on this shifter mount, it would flex like crazy when trying to engage/disengage the front output, like to the point I thought it would break something. No matter what I did, I couldn’t make it work correctly.

View attachment 2888118

View attachment 2888119
So I decided to build a new mount, one that wouldn’t flex.
3/8” plate, 5/8” - errr, I mean 16mm bolt, welded to the back, no reduction in thread size.
No flex. Easy shifting. So nice.
Painted and installed.

View attachment 2888120

View attachment 2888121

View attachment 2888122
Ah!

Mo' betta.

Those pictures are worth many words...
 
Well, no dice. #8 cylinder is .002” out of round and the difference between the biggest measurement of the cylinder (3.781”) and the measurement of the piston (3.772”) is .009” - the limit (clearance) is .0028”.
Looks like it’ll be heading to a machine shop.

View attachment 2894204

View attachment 2894205
Nice work!

You will feel better knowing than wondering...
 
And now for something completely spellbinding




**** me runnin
 
And now for something completely spellbinding




**** me runnin

Better than the chipmunk cheeks???
 
So here’s one of those things that will hopefully get taken care of in the meantime…

When I converted to the later IH Scout Saginaw steering box in ~2004, I brainstormed this way to couple the LC steering shaft to the Saginaw box. I disassembled the IH rag joint, welded one side to the LC box side coupler U-joint, and bolted the splined input side to that, and attached to the Scout box. It never failed in 14 years, but now I want to make the leap to some proper looking hardware.
Searched up the Borgeson website as well as a couple others to verify what the actual input shaft size is. They even make a “vibration resistant” joint that looks pretty cool.


The output side of the LC steering column measures out close to an 11/16” x 36 spline. Does this sound correct?

CED50086-0D7C-4503-ABFE-94B1393CF8F4.jpeg


479C7563-BADE-4023-9CC8-7200B326B85A.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom