Would love some opinions on the rust in these photos. Been looking to purchase a Land Cruiser for some months now. Found myself an '88 FJ62 with about 180k miles. I know rust can be a big issue with the 60 series. Your thoughts would be appreciated..
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cant tell much from those photos. looks like a trained camera man took them with the intention of hiding the usual rust spots
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for the reply.. what are some good spot to look for rust before purchasing?
rear quarters, around the gutters, around all the glass seals. rear portion of the frame
Need pictures of the bottoms of all the doors (from the inside of the doors). Open the front doors, and take a picture of the bottom of the rain gutter area too, on the back-side of the A pillar.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Based on the pics the frame looks like it has a fair amount of surface rust. Definitely look up and down the frame and at the rear upper shock brace. The welds on each end are known for cracking. As said above, under the doors, pillars, floors, body mounts, rockers.
Since it looks like the truck was resprayed at some point, cruise the body and knock along to listen for bondo at the wheel arches, around the windows and any bubbling. Also look for bubbling around the roof gutters.
EDIT: Just realized this was DC/Metro area, makes sense why it has such a dry frame and surface rust. Has it lived there its whole life?
Since it looks like the truck was resprayed at some point, cruise the body and knock along to listen for bondo at the wheel arches, around the windows and any bubbling. Also look for bubbling around the roof gutters.
EDIT: Just realized this was DC/Metro area, makes sense why it has such a dry frame and surface rust. Has it lived there its whole life?
- Thread starter
- #7
in the last 3 years the truck has been repainted and the radiator, fuel pump, knuckles, and exhaust (including catalytic converters, down pipe and mufflers) have been replaced. What kind of asking price would you expect? again 178k miles on her
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Depends on the results of the rust. Everyone here will say rust is the #1 factor in price. Mechanics are the easy part...unless you are a whiz with sheet metal fab and a welder.
CaptClose
SILVER Star
Yep... based on these pics, it could be a $500 parts donor, or a $7500 daily driver.
The good:
rims and tires seem nice.
What paint I can see looks good
The bad:
Mostly unknown??
Is the front valance missing?
Is that rust under the front end cap?
Engine looks almost untouched, so maintenance is unknown.
You need detailed photos of every corner, nook and cranny of this truck. Just like they said above. You also need detailed photos of the interior.
If these are the only pics the seller is offering, walk away. They are hiding at best and deceiving potential buyers at worst. Good luck.
The good:
rims and tires seem nice.
What paint I can see looks good
The bad:
Mostly unknown??
Is the front valance missing?
Is that rust under the front end cap?
Engine looks almost untouched, so maintenance is unknown.
You need detailed photos of every corner, nook and cranny of this truck. Just like they said above. You also need detailed photos of the interior.
If these are the only pics the seller is offering, walk away. They are hiding at best and deceiving potential buyers at worst. Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks! I'll be going to see it in person this week. They did provide some more photos here:
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
Like the guys are saying above...could be a good candidate for hiding rust. You can see it bubbling through on the inner channel of
the "A" pillar. Also, hard to tell in the pic, but make sure you can see body seams (example circled in attached pic). These are commonly covered up when Bondo is used in rusty areas.
CaptClose
SILVER Star
That seam Jim pointed out and circled in red, is directly over the rear tires. Check each side.
Bring a camera, flashlight and a magnet with you. The body and frame is solid metal and steel. If a magnet doesn't stick, there's a problem.
The additional photos look pretty good, but they still don't show any potential problem areas in detail.
Don't worry, we are always skeptics here, and you're doing the smart thing by asking advice here, before you purchase the truck. A lot of guys here will tell you that they wish they had done the same.
Bring a camera, flashlight and a magnet with you. The body and frame is solid metal and steel. If a magnet doesn't stick, there's a problem.
The additional photos look pretty good, but they still don't show any potential problem areas in detail.
Don't worry, we are always skeptics here, and you're doing the smart thing by asking advice here, before you purchase the truck. A lot of guys here will tell you that they wish they had done the same.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Third pic... passenger front door, look in the sill along the A-pillar and you will see a LONG line of rust along the gutter. That is a perfect indicator that there is lots of rust in the windshield and possibly the roof. When you look at the truck pay close attention to that area and the gutters around the roof as you may have some serious roof rust that has been covered by mud and paint.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Repaint.......99% of the time on these = rust repair of some sort.
get dirty and crawl under.
The rear of these get the brunt of the rust. Like other said quarters the line at the wheel well. Also check behind the quarters (inner quarter)
With the inner wheel wells there are lots of dirt traps that will suck in moisture.
A hard place to see is the drivers foot area as under the rig there is a heat shield. So take your hand and push hard there wight about the middle towards the trans tunnel, it may move, if it does it is rusty and a hole. You may be able to see from underneath.
get dirty and crawl under.
The rear of these get the brunt of the rust. Like other said quarters the line at the wheel well. Also check behind the quarters (inner quarter)
With the inner wheel wells there are lots of dirt traps that will suck in moisture.
A hard place to see is the drivers foot area as under the rig there is a heat shield. So take your hand and push hard there wight about the middle towards the trans tunnel, it may move, if it does it is rusty and a hole. You may be able to see from underneath.
Just thought I'd throw this out there as an alternative: '83 Toyota Landcruiser FJ60
This is my '83, if you're interested...
This is my '83, if you're interested...
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Wow that is a nice looking cruiser with some low miles right there..Just thought I'd throw this out there as an alternative: '83 Toyota Landcruiser FJ60
This is my '83, if you're interested...
brian
SILVER Star
the plastic nutcerts for the snake blinder chrome trim were not removed prior to repainting.
that lack of detail is telling.
that lack of detail is telling.
That shiny new paint is struggling hard to hold back the rust blooms. Walk away. Also, there looks to be something fishy going on right here:
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- #20
Not sure about it's whole life. Seems to have been here since at least 2014.
