Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (17 Viewers)

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RCV 300M REAR AXLES

The new RCVs sure are pretty. The flange is drilled for 6 dowel pins vs 2 one the original setup. The shafts are also machined to prevent the infamous stuck twisted axles in the elocker collar. They also use a 2-piece design with a separate drive flange like the front, nice.

Rather than use that OEM studs and cone washers, I decided to get rid of even more fuses and upgraded to 7/16" ARP bolts since I was already getting the hub machined for additional dowel pins. These things are like 3x cheaper then the metric ARP studs for our hubs.

Well I'm looking to do the same now. My Rcv 300m are on back order still. Will the 300M rear flanges accept that 7/16 ARP hardware stock? Or did you have to have the RCV flange machined out to work with the new machined hub as well?

If you did machine the RCV flange. Do you know if that voids the warranty?

Do you have part numbers for the dowel and ARP bolts used? Thanks
 
Well I'm looking to do the same now. My Rcv 300m are on back order still. Will the 300M rear flanges accept that 7/16 ARP hardware stock? Or did you have to have the RCV flange machined out to work with the new machined hub as well?

If you did machine the RCV flange. Do you know if that voids the warranty?

Do you have part numbers for the dowel and ARP bolts used? Thanks

Yeah the RCV flange has to be opened up slightly to fit the bigger ARP bolts. Not sure about the warranty but I can't imagine they'll like having their parts modified. The dowels come in the kit, but they are a bit short. I think Broski mentioned this as well when he installed them. The part number for the ARP bolts pictured in this post you quoted.
 
WHEELING - STRAWBERRY & NIAGARA RIM

Haven't done many exciting trips so far but at least the truck is getting used this year. Did a quick run up to Strawberry Pass with the kid to see how she likes riding in the truck. She's 7 months at the moment so trying to avoid the really bumpy trails. This past weekend we also ran Niagara Rim with a few 100s

Strawberry

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Hanging out at the local lake

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Niagara Rim

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And then this bulls1t again! Picked up the Wits End seal overdriver to see if that helps a bit.

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And then this bulls1t again! Picked up the Wits End seal overdriver to see if that helps a bit.
What seal are you running? OEM or Marlin HD?
My OEM lasted me all about 1 trip. I switched out and now using Marlin inner axle HD seals and just came back from the Rubithon and no issues
 
What seal are you running? OEM or Marlin HD?
My OEM lasted me all about 1 trip. I switched out and now using Marlin inner axle HD seals and just came back from the Rubithon and no issues

I think they're OEM currently. I remember trying the Marlin ones and those didn't help either. I have a feeling the shafts have grooves worn in them. Not sure how old the shafts are as they were already installed on the truck when I bought it. Hopefully driving the seal in further gives a better sealing area.
 
I’d bet your axle is a little bent or warped
 
when we say “axle is bent” we’re talking about the housing
Yeah - I thought that was weird. Pretty unusual for an axle (shaft) to bend without breaking.
 
I’d bet your axle is a little bent or warped

Or your housing.

Could be the culprit too. I know lots of guys have issues with leaky axle seals.

Took it apart today, here's why it leaked so badly! These are TG Trail Safe seals. They were just spinning around the shaft, not even in the housing. At this point I've tried OEM, Marlin, and TG. All leaked after not much driving. Going back to OEM with the overdriver to see if I get better results.

I also wonder if the shafts are a bit worn. These are original Longfields and who knows how old they are, they were already on the truck when I bought it 9yrs ago.

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Could be the culprit too. I know lots of guys have issues with leaky axle seals.

Took it apart today, here's why it leaked so badly! These are TG Trail Safe seals. They were just spinning around the shaft, not even in the housing. At this point I've tried OEM, Marlin, and TG. All leaked after not much driving. Going back to OEM with the overdriver to see if I get better results.

I also wonder if the shafts are a bit worn. These are original Longfields and who knows how old they are, they were already on the truck when I bought it 9yrs ago.

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That's weird - I've had pretty significantly grooved seal surfaces still hold fluid if they have little to no wear (a lot deeper than in your pics). Looks like you have some pitting - wonder if that's a contributing factor?
 
My left front was leaking slowly after I installed the RCV shafts a few years. I knew that I had slipped with the blade and put a shallow scratch on the seal surface of the inner shaft while removing the packaging. It was shallow but still produced a slow leak. I was forced to buy another left inner shaft from RCV after a couple years of dealing with the leak.

Your shaft seal surface looks pretty beat up.
 
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I don't think that shaft has the damage people think. It looks like an optical illusion and it has some grease/oil and particulate on it. Wipe it off so it is clean and take another picture please.
 
I would second what baldilocks said, those are some heavy wear marks. I would not expect a good seal from them. I would also be concerned as to why the seals made a untimely exit from the axle housing.
 
Here's a few more pics. Hard to get a good picture of the surface due to the glare. Most of it looks highly polished, but there is a definite groove that can be felt by hand.

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I've put speedi sleeves on axle shafts before. Worked well for me.

Read my mind, was just researching what part number to order, 99139. How did you drive them onto the axle shaft? Did they go on fairly easily?
 
Read my mind, was just researching what part number to order, 99139. How did you drive them onto the axle shaft? Did they go on fairly easily?
It's been a while and I don't really remember. It was not easy but I know I heated them up first so they expanded then I dropped them on real quick. I installed them on stock axle shafts.
 
Got the Speedi Sleeves installed. They went on relatively drama-free. Not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing?

Anyway, toughest part was finding a tube the right diameter to go over the axle, but small enough it grabs the shoulder of the sleeve. Luckily I have a bunch of aquarium plumbing parts so I was able to put two pieces together.

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Since I'm using the Wits End overdriver, I pushed the sleeve just bee's dick past the outer collar. Then you grab some pliers and peel away the shoulder.

Oh, I used Loctite 680 on the shaft sleeve.

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And all done. Hopefully this holds oil a bit longer than 3k miles!

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And while my truck was taken apart, my steering ram decided it didn't want to be a hydraulic ram anymore and puked its guts all over my garage. Thanks, appreciate the stain! So I ordered a PSC 8x1.5" ram and will toss this TG unit in the trash. Hopefully the PSC bolts right up with no mods needed. I'm so over freaking oil leaks!

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