Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (1 Viewer)

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Looking good, moving right along. I'm at the point where it's hard to decide what to put back together first. Keep after it !!!!
 
Turns out I bought the wrong year trans, it's a 1995 with the taller first gear but the wrong front face pattern. Ii could make this work but it's going to be a pain, I'm going to sell it and get a dodge version.
 
Came out of a 96 chevy truck? Must have been one of those early/late model year differences in the chevy world :(
 
It has the 5.61:1 first gear, but the early 93-95 GM smaller bolt pattern.

I might be able to hack my AA adapter plate up but I won't know until I have it in hand.

The 4x4 housing on the GM transmission is a fair bit longer than the Dodge, I'm not sure if I want that length of not.

Can anyone measure the length of an A440f transmission?
 
You can redrill the face of the nv4500 to the late pattern as well IIRC. I'd go that route before modifying a brand new part from AA
 
For sure, but the delivery date of the adapter is the 25th, so I'll see what comes up in the classifieds first. If I can straight across trade this for the right transmission I would like to, it would also mean I wouldn't have to buy a new input for the 203 as well.

If this NV4500/203 combo is the same length as my old automatic (I have a hunch that it is) I will keep it so I can reusue my very good original driveshafts.
 
Length of A440f : 26.5"

AA adapter: 0.75"
Dodge NV4500: 18.625"
203: 6"
AA adapter: 0.75"

= 26.125"

I should be able to use my stock original driveshafts! :bounce:
 
Axles to replace my broken long side and a set of spares came in. I have a set of tears as well, how do you guys store spare axles for wheeling?

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1452002914.264814.jpg
 
I used to coat the splines on both ends in grease, put grease around the sealing surfaces on the birfield and inner axle, then wrap the whole thing in plastic wrap (kitchen plastic wrap works just fine). Duct-tape to keep the wrap sealed. Lots of duct-tape around the splines to protect the splines.

In the truck I'd keep them as low and forward as possible, so for me that meant laying down where the rear passenger's feet would go.
 
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Because I don't want to break something higher up the chain, or something harder to fix.

I can swap an axle in an hour and a half.
 
Because I don't want to break something higher up the chain, or something harder to fix.

I can swap an axle in an hour and a half.

Damn your logic ;) .

Wouldn't the hubs be the next weakness?
 
I no longer subscribe to the "engineered weak link" methodology in my build planning, but I see your point.

I thought you were gonna say because chromo axles are expensive, lol.
 
I actually really like the idea of chromo-inners and stock birfs

In my opinion they actually aren't that expensive , I just have other stuff to spend money on at the moment.
 
Damn your logic ;) .

Wouldn't the hubs be the next weakness?

I've never seen a broken Aisin hub, I have seen broken Warn hubs though. Usually the studs shear before the hub breaks.

Honestly the answer to all of this is to have a good spotter and not bounce the truck.
 
I actually really like the idea of chromo-inners and stock birfs

In my opinion they actually aren't that expensive , I just have other stuff to spend money on at the moment.

Not a good idea to run chromo inners and stock birfs. When the star gear blows up it'll mess up the splines on the inner axle shaft.

Either all chromo or no chromo IMHO.
 
Pulled it all apart again, some back carnage inside the knuckle ball that I didn't see before because I hadn't cleaned it all yet. Need to get after it with a die grinder and clean it up

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1452097385.153368.jpg
 
Cleaned and freshly painted knuckle

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1452097423.735961.jpg
 
Not that I'm aware of, it's Duplicolor engine enamel but I like the color for some reason
 

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