Compiled 80 series suspension component spec thread... shocks, coils & more. (16 Viewers)

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Anyone know of any compatible shocks for FJ80? Naturally, leaving for camping trip today and nothing in stock anywhere.
 
Dobinsons has all 3 shock models in stock. Dobinsonsdirect.com
Hey @David Otero, I am not sure if my 4 year old swiped a set of bushings, or if I am missing a set. In either case, I need a pair for the rear shock where it connects to the axle on an 80 series. Because my 4 year old may very well have taken them (he was very impressed they looked like small tires), I am willing to pay for them too. I sent a message through the website, but its sadly saturday and I have no hopes it will actually be read until monday. Heeellllpppp please!
 
Hey @David Otero, I am not sure if my 4 year old swiped a set of bushings, or if I am missing a set. In either case, I need a pair for the rear shock where it connects to the axle on an 80 series. Because my 4 year old may very well have taken them (he was very impressed they looked like small tires), I am willing to pay for them too. I sent a message through the website, but its sadly saturday and I have no hopes it will actually be read until monday. Heeellllpppp please!
Not the right thread to post that in, but like most businesses, they're closed on Saturday and don't offer same day shipping. You should PM him.
 
I've compiled all of the shocks that Dobinsons make for the 80 Series on this one page. Twin tube, IMS, and MRA, in 0-3", 4-5" and 6" lengths. 20 different options including the 2 steering damper options!!


All shock lengths are listed next to each shock (xx/xx), extended/compressed, in millimeters. You can see how sometimes the twin tubes out perform the IMS and MRA's even in extended lengths. It was hard for me to bounce between pages to get someone the specs of each, so I went ahead and put it all on one page so it can be found easier.
 
Anyone on this thread know the stock amount of up travel, not articulation, for the 80.
designing a new suspension setup for mine using King shocks and stops. Want to remain stock height, no lift. However for the ride I am hoping to achieve I need 4“, preferably 5, of uptravel. I can’t measure right now as it is completely torn down.
thanks
 
This is on 1st page...
The front 3 inch rear is 4" if you set 80 on bumps and the bumps crush an additional .5" if hitting a pot hole or jumping.

For 35s you need to bump down 1.5"
For 37s bump down 2.5".
 
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I have the 2 inch Nitro Ironman lift and its worked out really well so far. I've only had the lift on for about a month. The overall stance of 80 looks a lot better imo. Still haven't even had the radius arm bushings installed yet or an alignment but the 80 still handles "OK" at hwy speeds. currently running 285/75/r16 Nitto Terra grapplers and they are just big enough to compliment the lift. I'll definitely upgrade to 35's in the future. 25% off is a helleva deal. i say go for it.
How is it now? Have you added weight to the vehicle? What was your reason for lifting?
 
How is it now? Have you added weight to the vehicle? What was your reason for lifting?
Hey the lift has held up great. its been on for just over a year and over 10,000 miles! Handling has improved since i've had the offset bushings installed.

I would suggest installing the offset bushing or castor plates when the lift is put on. my ujoints did start to fail after about 3 months w/out proper castor correction.

I've added a front ARB bumper and i haven't noticed any sag 👍
 
Which kit did you go with, how heavy are you and how's the street ride?
 
I reached out to David Otero to get the official specs of the newer updated design VT coils.
Here is what David wrote:

As per David Otero with Dobinson USA:
"The free height, spring rate and wire thickness (without the tapering) is the same.
The amount of turns is different."
"They aren't tapered wire anymore, the tapered wire made them pretty noisy.
We achieved the same free heights and spring rates with the updated design, using the same wire thickness throughout."


I broke it down into the normal format below:
Dobinson reports that stock height is 20" front & 21" rear
(Folks have reported back heavy loaded 23 to 23.5" lightly loaded 24 to 25" hub to flare measurements)

2.5" front C97-146VT (23.43/23.82") 18mm wire @15.5 turns, 140/220/290# rate
2" rear C97-147VT (21.06/21.46") 19mm wire @10.4 turns, 160/215/285# rate
(Folks have reported back heavy loaded 24 to 25" lightly loaded 25 to 26 hub to flare measurements)
3.5" front C97-144VT (23.82/24.21) 18mm wire @13.5 turns, 140/200/290# rate
3" rear C97-145VT (21.06/21.46") 20mm wire @10.2 turns, 180/270/340# rate

1653326222428.png


Her is a good resource link about the coils:
Thread 'New Dobinsons VT series dual rate coils
New Dobinsons VT series dual rate coils - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-dobinsons-vt-series-dual-rate-coils.1252527/

These have 13.5 turns, so I will presume these are the 3.5" 144vt coils since the 2.5" coils have 15.5 turns.
Screen Shot 2021-05-17 at 3.58.28 PM.png



Fronts installed w/ 1" spacer
PXL_20210520_214452467.jpg


Stance w/ 1" spacers front and rear
PXL_20210520_231352729.jpg


Pic after several thousands miles.
dobinsons2.jpeg


 
Hey you'll, just learned something new today & I wanted to share it with you.

IRONMAN RADIUS ARM DROP BOX BRACKETS SUITED FOR TOYOTA 80 SERIES LAND CRUISER/LEXUS LX450 PART NUMBER: DBOX001

They drop down 3 1/8” (80mm) then forward 0.59055" = 19/32" = 15mm forward.
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1654236206753.png

1654236223080.png


Radius Arm Drop Box Brackets Suited for Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX450​

The Solution:
The Ironman 4x4 Drop Boxes (DBOX's) were engineered to lower the chassis side of the radius arms down 3 1/8” (80mm) from the frame rails. They help move your front wheel caster back into the factory designed travel arc and the intended OEM alignment range.
If you’re only lifting your LC80 2”, our caster correction bushings will do the job just fine. Just remember that for our left-hand drive LC80’s here in North America, go much higher and you’ll run into a bunch of new problems.
The two main issues are the radius arms start contacting the steering link and your front tires rub the back of the front fender wells.
The DBOX’s fix both these issues by lowering the chassis end of the radius arms and you’ll have plenty of clearance around your steering link. The DBOX’s new mounting points are located forward 15mm, which swings your front wheel forward and away from the fender well. No more rubbing and the caster gets pushed back into the middle of the OEM’s intended range.
Don’t forget your radius arms are critical suspension components that not only help you put the power down, but they also stabilize your truck under braking, acceleration, and increase the feel of your steering and handling.
We all want our cruisers to be off-road beasts, but most of us have to do some kind of highway driving to get them on the dirt. The DBOX’s let you enjoy that part of the trip too with a Cruiser that tracks down the road like a rail car.
 
Curious if anyone can compare ride quality between the OME 861/862 vs Dobinsons C59-210V/C59-221V? I'm looking to install stock height springs and OEM shocks for a suspension "refresh". I have the OME springs on hand, but have been reading good things about the Dobinsons and am wondering if I should call a last minute audible.

OME lists the spring rates of the front 861/862 springs as 170/250 lbf/in & 170/260 lbf/in respectively and have seen them called out as "dual and/or progressive rate" springs. C59-210V and C59-221V are 182-217 lbf/in and 166-223 lbf/in and have seen them called out as "progressive and/or variable rate".

Is there a design difference (aside from color ;)) between the two sets other than the spring rates? Or is progressive/dual/variable rate all the same and the differences only lie in the spring rates?
 
Curious if anyone can compare ride quality between the OME 861/862 vs Dobinsons C59-210V/C59-221V? I'm looking to install stock height springs and OEM shocks for a suspension "refresh". I have the OME springs on hand, but have been reading good things about the Dobinsons and am wondering if I should call a last minute audible.

OME lists the spring rates of the front 861/862 springs as 170/250 lbf/in & 170/260 lbf/in respectively and have seen them called out as "dual and/or progressive rate" springs. C59-210V and C59-221V are 182-217 lbf/in and 166-223 lbf/in and have seen them called out as "progressive and/or variable rate".

Is there a design difference (aside from color ;)) between the two sets other than the spring rates? Or is progressive/dual/variable rate all the same and the differences only lie in the spring rates?
V stands for variable, and progressive and dual rate are essentially names that mean pretty much the same thing. Dobinsons are just softer than the OME on the heavier end of the spring. There will be a design difference because of the 2 different companies and types of steel they use, plus the way they each make them, but at the end of the day they compare pretty close on paper.
 
V stands for variable, and progressive and dual rate are essentially names that mean pretty much the same thing. Dobinsons are just softer than the OME on the heavier end of the spring. There will be a design difference because of the 2 different companies and types of steel they use, plus the way they each make them, but at the end of the day they compare pretty close on paper.
Thank you! That helps a lot. Got the OME springs at around 1/2 MSRP so will stick with them.

I plan to eventually install aftermarket shocks once I get around to upgrading the front bumper. Thinking I'll go Dobinsons shocks and will look your way since you’re only a couple hours north of me.
 
Hey you'll, just learned something new today & I wanted to share it with you.

IRONMAN RADIUS ARM DROP BOX BRACKETS SUITED FOR TOYOTA 80 SERIES LAND CRUISER/LEXUS LX450 PART NUMBER: DBOX001

They drop down 3 1/8” (80mm) then forward 0.59055" = 19/32" = 15mm forward.
View attachment 3023981
View attachment 3023982
View attachment 3023983
View attachment 3023984
View attachment 3023985

Radius Arm Drop Box Brackets Suited for Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX450​

The Solution:
The Ironman 4x4 Drop Boxes (DBOX's) were engineered to lower the chassis side of the radius arms down 3 1/8” (80mm) from the frame rails. They help move your front wheel caster back into the factory designed travel arc and the intended OEM alignment range.
If you’re only lifting your LC80 2”, our caster correction bushings will do the job just fine. Just remember that for our left-hand drive LC80’s here in North America, go much higher and you’ll run into a bunch of new problems.
The two main issues are the radius arms start contacting the steering link and your front tires rub the back of the front fender wells.
The DBOX’s fix both these issues by lowering the chassis end of the radius arms and you’ll have plenty of clearance around your steering link. The DBOX’s new mounting points are located forward 15mm, which swings your front wheel forward and away from the fender well. No more rubbing and the caster gets pushed back into the middle of the OEM’s intended range.
Don’t forget your radius arms are critical suspension components that not only help you put the power down, but they also stabilize your truck under braking, acceleration, and increase the feel of your steering and handling.
We all want our cruisers to be off-road beasts, but most of us have to do some kind of highway driving to get them on the dirt. The DBOX’s let you enjoy that part of the trip too with a Cruiser that tracks down the road like a rail car.

These look like the best solution to our castor problem, they should be lift specific though. Anyone tried them?
 
Is It possible to install +2" springs with oem shocks? No hardcore offroad use..
Not a good idea because you lost 2" of uptravel by going to longer springs. So, you'll top out the shocks, or overextend them.

Do it right, do it once and bend over. Get a 2" kit that includes everything. There's no such thing as "no hardcore offroad use" - because your ego will end up writing checks, your 80 can't cash :rofl:
 
Not a good idea because you lost 2" of uptravel by going to longer springs. So, you'll top out the shocks, or overextend them.

Do it right, do it once and bend over. Get a 2" kit that includes everything. There's no such thing as "no hardcore offroad use" - because your ego will end up writing checks, your 80 can't cash :rofl:
@Topi79 Actually, down travel would be lost but if the vehicle will only see smoother terrain this should not be an issue. What may be concerning is the fact that the shocks presently on the vehicle are valved to control the lighter duty oem springs and during even moderate off road use the ride could feel a bit uncomfortable or not under control.

Since springs and shocks do come together in kits that compliment each other, it makes sense to just order a kit and leave any mystery’s out.
 
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