Builds Back in a 60 series - 1HZ Swap

[davegonz]

Thanks for stopping by.

Found some good info on the radiator issue from one of Georg's @orangefj45 posts:

as for the fan shroud, it's really very simple. take the existing shroud and totate it 180. you'll have to re-drill a couple of holes. i also take the lower rad hose and move it as far outboard as possible ( you'll need to have a radiator shop re-braze the lower hose pipe and close off the hole from the old location ). they'll also need to move the drain to a different spot. not sure if i have pics of a modded shroud, but i can look.

here's the last rig we converted, with the mounts from the pic above.

again, my sincerest appology for taking too long. there will be no charge for your mount kit or shipping.


hth


georg @ valley hybrids
View attachment 673220

 

[tucker74]

Sounds like a trip to Mr Cool is in order this week to get you radiator fixed up.

Tucker

 

[davegonz]

I thought about them, but they're now closed.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Nice work there. Looks and sounds great!!!

 

[davegonz]

We now have throttle!

 

[davegonz]

I also modified the fuel pin to make it easier to reinstall.

 

[Hojack]

That sounds awesome

 

[bottombracket]

I was just gonna call and ask if you had figured it out.

Man that sounds good.

 

[davegonz]

I moved the clutch hose bracket from the PS to the DS. I bought a 30 inch long brake line and hand bent it into shape. I probably will go shorter, but for now this works .

 

[davegonz]

One thing that I've noticed is that I don't really need to glow it to start. It starts right up.

 

[Hojack]

One thing that I've noticed is that I don't really need to glow it to start. It starts right up.

So it can start off compression like a 4BT

 

[davegonz]

I guess. The 4BT is a direct injection engine like the 1HDT. The 1HZ is indirect injection which usually needs to be glowed to start.

 

[bottombracket]

Who needs to glow when it’s like the surface of the sun here?

 

[davegonz]

LOL! Yeah, there is that.

 

[db3]

Found some good info on the radiator issue from one of Georg's @orangefj45 posts:

Georg did my 1HZ install and here is the specifics on the radiator modifications he mentions. The lower spout is moved all the way to the right side. You can then use a standard set of upper/lower 80 series hoses. I recommend you just go ahead and upgrade to the Champion radiator, as the stock 60 radiator is just barely adequate for normal operation. I usually had to turn off the air when I was in 100+ summer conditions to avoid overheating. You still have to modify the lower spout on a new Champion, as it is the stock layout. If you are interested I can send photos of the 3" exhaust on my truck.

 

[davegonz]

You rock! Yes, post your exhaust pictures .

 

[db3]

Georg had the exhaust routed outside the frame so it's away from the fuel lines. First photo is turbo discharge. Pipe is turned down just in front of the rear wheel.

 

[davegonz]

Thanks. I was thinking of going on that side as well, but wasn't sure how to transition over. I see you used a lot of that thermal wrap. It is pretty crowded there with the fuel lines, brake lines, and heater hoses.

 

[db3]

I also installed a cover on the turbo to help keep the temperature in that area as low as possible.

 

[davegonz]

My extreme cold weather test this morning showed that the 1HZ will start in sub-100F temperatures (it was 80) without glowing it. LOL! Man, I can't wait to drive this thing.

@db3 , how are you liking the 1HZ-T?