Builds A 60 Runs through it…
- Thread starter Hojack
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Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
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This looks like a great locker alternative to the ARB air locker. The TJM pro is also an air locker.
4WD Accessories - TJM Rear Bar - 4x4 Accessories | TJM Australia
What sounds so good about the JTM is that there are no internal seals like the ARB air locker that need to be pulled when the seals go bad. The ARB compressors have also had issues. For compressor alternatives there is a Power Tank available which uses CO2 pressurized tank for compressed air to actuate the lockers or inflate tires.
4WD Accessories - TJM Rear Bar - 4x4 Accessories | TJM Australia
What sounds so good about the JTM is that there are no internal seals like the ARB air locker that need to be pulled when the seals go bad. The ARB compressors have also had issues. For compressor alternatives there is a Power Tank available which uses CO2 pressurized tank for compressed air to actuate the lockers or inflate tires.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
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Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
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$500 for a tank of c02 and inflator hose?? LOL.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Several years back, a whole bunch of guys on the forum bought TJM lockers when they were being blown out for $500 each at Summit. Then there were tons of problems involving leakage at the actuator. I don't know if that was ever resolved, but the TJMs kind of went away after that.
ARBs are good and stong, just know that over time you will have to change out internal o-rings, the bonded seal, replace compressors etc.
The harrops are a newer design, activate in a clever way that uses the 12 volts you already have. They so far, seem the equal of ARB in all respects.
Harrop Eaton ELockerTM / Yotalockers.com: Info / Installation
So I would pick how you want your lockers to actuate and buy accordingly.
ARBs are good and stong, just know that over time you will have to change out internal o-rings, the bonded seal, replace compressors etc.
The harrops are a newer design, activate in a clever way that uses the 12 volts you already have. They so far, seem the equal of ARB in all respects.
Harrop Eaton ELockerTM / Yotalockers.com: Info / Installation
So I would pick how you want your lockers to actuate and buy accordingly.
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Are you going to install a roll cage?
I can attest to the fact that having diff seals go in an ARB is a PITA, but damn do they work well when they hold air.
Hojack
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This is the purpose of this IH8MUD site. Lockers are a major investment and I want to pick the right ones. If I had a full time Crawler it’d be different but this is the same as all yours who’ve been posting on this thread.
Locker options look like three. What do you think of JTM pro air lockers? @Cruiserdrew has had many issues with the ARB and the compressors that he is going the Harrop e-locker direction. I watched videos on them last night and on a hill climb the truck was locked in but it rolled back and the locked will disengaged for a 1/4-1/2 wheel turn depending on tire size before relocking the opposite direction. As you start going forward again it disengages again until 1/4-1/2 wheel turn and engages. This was the biggest complaint about the Harrop locker. ( @boots4 I could see that in your rig with automatic you can just feather the throttle preventing any type of roll back.) A clutch would be harder to do unless I get another lower transfer case so it’ll crawl. Perhaps mine will be fine? I guess it’s all up in the air until I drive it which I’m so excited for. The Harrop aside from that do look like a great option. The JTM don’t have the same designed inner seals that fail like the ARB which is a major plus for future maintenance. I have a PacBrake on my Dodge 3500 and it has an onboard compressor. I do like the onboard compressor or pressurized cylinder idea.
Locker options look like three. What do you think of JTM pro air lockers? @Cruiserdrew has had many issues with the ARB and the compressors that he is going the Harrop e-locker direction. I watched videos on them last night and on a hill climb the truck was locked in but it rolled back and the locked will disengaged for a 1/4-1/2 wheel turn depending on tire size before relocking the opposite direction. As you start going forward again it disengages again until 1/4-1/2 wheel turn and engages. This was the biggest complaint about the Harrop locker. ( @boots4 I could see that in your rig with automatic you can just feather the throttle preventing any type of roll back.) A clutch would be harder to do unless I get another lower transfer case so it’ll crawl. Perhaps mine will be fine? I guess it’s all up in the air until I drive it which I’m so excited for. The Harrop aside from that do look like a great option. The JTM don’t have the same designed inner seals that fail like the ARB which is a major plus for future maintenance. I have a PacBrake on my Dodge 3500 and it has an onboard compressor. I do like the onboard compressor or pressurized cylinder idea.
I'd pull off the sway bar mounts. After a cut and turn they will put the sway bar too close to the ground.
Good idea Johnny.
Jason, cut them off with the intention to weld them back on just in case. For now we can leave the steering stops on. Once we have the axle mocked under the rig is when we'll decide on a cut n' turn. Having forklift access to do the heavy stuff makes taking things on and off a breeze.
Jason, cut them off with the intention to weld them back on just in case. For now we can leave the steering stops on. Once we have the axle mocked under the rig is when we'll decide on a cut n' turn. Having forklift access to do the heavy stuff makes taking things on and off a breeze.
Add a $30 regulator, a couple of hardware store brass fittings and air hose coupler and you’ve got the same thing.
