Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (19 Viewers)

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I am delayed on the swap, had a kid start college and cannot justify the expense before I knew what school and the cost. Once I get in there, I will look and see what if anything can be done.

Once TORFAB released their kit I have reconsidered my swap, watching prices on the newer drivetrain to support that kit. Not surprisingly, the 5.3/6L80 I had sold pretty fast.

At this time I am just gleaning knowledge from others as they go through their builds. This is a great community and very helpful with experience and sharing knowledge.
 
Usually I get my answers here by searches but I could find this one, so dumb question:

What coolant type is best to use, Toyota (my belief), GM, or magic any make any model ever made stuff? I am using the stock 97' LC radiator and the swap is a GenIV 6.0L (LY6)

For coolant, I went with ACDelco Extended Life Dex-Cool.

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I also installed my GM ECM where the old cruise control actuator was located.

@White Sheep I have looked into where to place the computer once I do my swap. I had thought about removing the Toyota computer but many people were against that and I don't have strong enough conviction to say it has to go. What are your thought on making a mount that places the GM computer as far back as possible and then making a modified glove compartment so you still have limited functionality for essentials (keep the owners manual and your insurance/registration) but not room for the extra crap that inevitably comes to rest in there.

I am not sure who is against removing the Toyota computer since it is no longer necessary after an LS Swap. It isn't used for anything, other than taking up space. I might use its space for the SwapTime MCM and make a 3D printed bracket for it, and a couple of its relays.

So, I found out my 2020 L96 has 821 heads from the LS3, rather than the normal 823 heads. 821 heads have hollow-stem valves meant for the LS3. Perhaps GM had excess 821 heads when they were winding down L96 production.

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I left Toyota computer in place because the t-case and center diff lock run through it. The coolant gauge and oil pressure gauge are on the harness but I could run those to the dash. Is there something I missed? Is there a way to remove the Toyota ECM but still have full functionality with the t-case and Toyota speedometer?
 
I left Toyota computer in place because the t-case and center diff lock run through it. The coolant gauge and oil pressure gauge are on the harness but I could run those to the dash. Is there something I missed? Is there a way to remove the Toyota ECM but still have full functionality with the t-case and Toyota speedometer?
How does it all function now.
 
I left Toyota computer in place because the t-case and center diff lock run through it. The coolant gauge and oil pressure gauge are on the harness but I could run those to the dash. Is there something I missed? Is there a way to remove the Toyota ECM but still have full functionality with the t-case and Toyota speedometer?
Those things have nothing to do with the ECM. Follow the wires.
 
few more new recent developments if anyone is interested. Hopefully makes some lives easier or can clean up some older swaps.


 
Looks nice Cruisermatt. For the swap. Can we get rid of the high/low fuel pump relay and the fuel pump resistor, and
wire the fuel pump to always run when the ignition is on? ls engine fuel delivery isn't as complicated as the LC.
The guy on the video did it like that. Thanks all.
 
The 80 series fuel pump relay isn't needed. Depending on how or what harness your using will have or should have a standard relay to control the fuel pump wired to the 80 series fuel pump wire going directly to the fuel pump.
I get it no one wants to look through 200 hundred pages of information but the answers are already discussed multiple times in this thread come on guys do your research.
 
The 80 series fuel pump relay isn't needed. Depending on how or what harness your using will have or should have a standard relay to control the fuel pump wired to the 80 series fuel pump wire going directly to the fuel pump.
I get it no one wants to look through 200 hundred pages of information but the answers are already discussed multiple times in this thread come on guys do your research.
The 80 series fuel pump relay isn't needed. Depending on how or what harness your using will have or should have a standard relay to control the fuel pump wired to the 80 series fuel pump wire going directly to the fuel pump.
I get it no one wants to look through 200 hundred pages of information but the answers are already discussed multiple times in this thread come on guys do your research.
Thanks so much. I spent like a few hours searching for it before I asked. Wish there is a better way to search in this forum. I'm running into a no fuel on my swap so this is helpful. Promise I'll stop asking questions from now on in this v8 swap. Thanks all for y'all precious time.
 
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Thanks so much. I spent like a few hours searching for it before I asked. Wish there is a better way to search in this forum. I'm running into a no fuel on my swap so this is helpful. Promise I'll stop asking questions from now on in this v8 swap. Thanks all for y'all precious time.

Your answer can easily be found in the Toyota EWD, which is why it isn't talked about much here.

But, TLC94LS did a video on wiring, which can be found in this very thread I provided timestamps in a comment to that video on YT and one of the timestamps is for the Fuel Pump.

Fuel Pump Relay

I wired my fuel pump differently than TLC94LS and simplified the Fuel Pump circuit. I eliminated the Fuel Pump Relay, Fuel Pump Resistor, and Circuit Opening Relay. None of it is needed, nor is the wiring between them (which is long)

I wired a 30 Amp power relay, which I located on the passenger inner fender, controlled by the GM ECM, to send power back on the R-B wire that comes from the fuel pump resistor. Basically, swap the Fuel Pump Resistor with a Power Relay..it is that simple.

In this way, I simplified everything, and shortened the total length of the wiring, which helps with current capacity.
 
Only thing I kept was the main relay, which I had triggered by the GM ecm, I bet you could just make that relay IGN hot work just the same.

One thing Inwould different now after thinking on it more. So many systems need an ignition hot trigger. I would’ve have preferred to use an IGN hot wire trigger an IGN relay to power a bus bar for systems to then pull from. It would have been better for troubleshooting and upgrades than the way I did it. Live and learn.
 
So you bypassed fJ62 AC amplifier?
 
Well I don’t know anything about FJ62?? Best thing to do is watch my YouTube videos on it. I explain in detail how I did it. Which I would make a few tweaks now. Overall I feel the concept is pretty good though.
 
So you bypassed fJ62 AC amplifier?
I did bypass the cutout relay and the resistor. I only kept the main EFI relay which is triggered by my Gen 3 ecm. Which supplies a ground to prime the fuel system (runs pump for about 3secs.) and then keeps pump on from crank and run. I believe the Toyota system would run the rpm through the resistor to slow the pump rpm’s during low fuel demand? Which in my limited experience isn’t done commonly today. The pumps just run at full speed with 12v and last 100ks of miles. A new Toyota sized fuel pump will supply plenty of fuel for a regular GM swap. Given that these are not race cars. I personally feel you can over power the Toyota drive train if you’re not careful with a real hopped up 6.0. My worry was the limiting factor of the Toyota drive train. So I kept my motor basically stock, which is already about 150 more HP than the original.
 
Looks nice Cruisermatt. For the swap. Can we get rid of the high/low fuel pump relay and the fuel pump resistor, and
wire the fuel pump to always run when the ignition is on? ls engine fuel delivery isn't as complicated as the LC.
The guy on the video did it like that. Thanks all.

I didn't touch the Toyota fuel system at all. I replaced the Toyota fuel filter with a Corvette fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator, and everything else is all OEM.
 

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