Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (16 Viewers)

[kgthom]

Hmm. IDK. How is your fan shroud? Fan located in the correct position? You definitely should not have your temp climbing while stationary. Maybe the fan clutch is defective. I have same setup and I’ve never seen temps like that while towing boat in Florida during summer. AC on.

Unloaded in those temps you should be in high 180s. I’m always mid to high 180s in Florida winter.

Summit DIY aluminum fan shroud. This is my 2nd fan clutch with similar results, I had a stock one on there originally. No AC yet but the condenser is mounted, I had the heater valve open for the entire drive as well. I changed the upper radiator hose since that photo and added a bleed port to the high point near the radiator cap as well.

 

[Tinkertoy]

Sorry for random question. Did you completely burp the coolant? I had similar issues originally then switched the thermostat to 160 degree.

I don’t have cooling issues unless I am climbing mountain passes. It 95+ outside and on load. At this time of year I’m Seattle I barely get to 195. If this helps.

 

[Tinkertoy]

Got it installed and mocked up for now. Waiting on the upper radiator hose, should be in Thursday. I already trimmed up the lower rad hose, fits pretty good. Ordered some delphi weather pack connectors, so I can do the electrical connectors, using connectors so that I don't have to cut the wires if I ever need to pull the fans out in the future.

Which lower hose did you use? I originally bought flexible hoses from Amazon and I was warned they would leak. They do. So looking to go the same route as you.

 

[NeverFinis]

Summit DIY aluminum fan shroud. This is my 2nd fan clutch with similar results, I had a stock one on there originally. No AC yet but the condenser is mounted, I had the heater valve open for the entire drive as well. I changed the upper radiator hose since that photo and added a bleed port to the high point near the radiator cap as well.

View attachment 3784205

I assume air still in the system but any foam between the fan shroud and the radiator? Looks like there is a large gap there.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

The circular part of your shroud is too long and your fan is too far recessed in causing inefficient suction. There are YT videos on what happens as you have it. Fan blades should stick out about 3/4” from shroud edge. Trim the circular part some.

 

[kgthom]

Sorry for random question. Did you completely burp the coolant? I had similar issues originally then switched the thermostat to 160 degree.

I don’t have cooling issues unless I am climbing mountain passes. It 95+ outside and on load. At this time of year I’m Seattle I barely get to 195. If this helps.

At first I thought it was air in the system or trapped behind the water pump. I used a vacuum bleeder and then a coolant funnel to burp any remaining air. I’m not hearing any air bubbles in the system at this point.
Upper hose was off a 2000 Tahoe (CEL-62262). I later spliced this with a 1-1/4” to 1-1/2” with 1/8” NPT tee (ICT Billet AN627-21x125) using a dayco-70440 hose on the radiator side to help bleed air from the system. Lower hose is off a 2000 ford explorer (GATES-20230).

 

[kgthom]

I assume air still in the system but any foam between the fan shroud and the radiator? Looks like there is a large gap there.

Air was my initial thought as well but I spent 2 days before the drive trying to burp any air out of the system. Originally I did have air getting trapped in the upper radiator hose so I added a bleed port to help remove that. The gap on the shroud to the rad is less than 1/4” but I do plan on going back with foam. I originally had electric fans on a shroud with no gap to the radiator but had similar temperatures.

The circular part of your shroud is too long and your fan is too far recessed in causing inefficient suction. The are YT videos on what happens as you have it. Fan blades should stick out about 3/4” from shroud edge. Trim the circular part some.

I hadn’t thought of that, I’ll trim off a little bit and see if that helps the fan. It has plenty of suction above idle but seems to be lacking a bit at low rpms.

 

[Augustiron]

My understanding was that you want the edge of the shroud at the middle of the blades.

Also, do you completely trust the temp gauge? Verified?

 

[kgthom]

My understanding was that you want the edge of the shroud at the middle of the blades.

Also, do you completely trust the temp gauge? Verified?

I haven’t verified the temp. It’s a new sensor located in the front of the driver side head. I did use another GM sensor for the dash gauge but I haven’t adjusted the resistance values on the 80 gauge to get that to read correctly. I’ve been monitoring temps through the ECU with an ultra gauge or hp tuners.

 

[goranvolvo]

I haven’t verified the temp. It’s a new sensor located in the front of the driver side head. I did use another GM sensor for the dash gauge but I haven’t adjusted the resistance values on the 80 gauge to get that to read correctly. I’ve been monitoring temps through the ECU with an ultra gauge or hp tuners.

did you check your timing in hp tuners ?

upload your hp tuner file on here

how did you hook up thermostat housing houses ?
i instaled this valve to help with coolant circulation

 

[kgthom]

did you check your timing in hp tuners ?

upload your hp tuner file on here

how did you hook up thermostat housing houses ?
i instaled this valve to help with coolant circulation

I don't currently have any heater core bypass installed but from what I have seen on other swaps they dont seem to be required.

I cant do a file upload to mud but Ill PM you my log files if you want to take a look at them. I think timing is around 20 degrees at idle, tune is still getting dialed in because on its running speed density instead of a MAF and a fairly big cam.

 

[Tinkertoy]

Has anyone come across a P219B? This is AFR issue in bank 2. Generally start with the wiring to the O2. Look for exhaust leaks. Look for vacuum leaks.

I can’t seem to figure it out. I replaced the O2 sensor and can see it running on HPTuners. Sparks plugs look good. No coolant in the cylinders.

Replaced the spar plug wires. Only thing I can think of is injectors. I pulled out the stethoscope and they sounded like they were all clicking the same. Any other ideas?

L96 6.0 with a 6l90 trans. All from the donor vehicle 2010 express van 3500.

Everything has been rebuilt. I have 10k on the swap.

 

[White Stripe]

Has anyone come across a P219B? This is AFR issue in bank 2. Generally start with the wiring to the O2. Look for exhaust leaks. Look for vacuum leaks.

I can’t seem to figure it out. I replaced the O2 sensor and can see it running on HPTuners. Sparks plugs look good. No coolant in the cylinders.

Replaced the spar plug wires. Only thing I can think of is injectors. I pulled out the stethoscope and they sounded like they were all clicking the same. Any other ideas?

L96 6.0 with a 6l90 trans. All from the donor vehicle 2010 express van 3500.

Everything has been rebuilt. I have 10k on the swap.

What are your fuel trims?

 

[tmxmotorsports]

No clue on hp tuners but I've used a ir thermometer to check each exhaust port for temperature difference found a fuel injector plug wasn't pinned all the way in.

 

[AcroSteve]

Question for the group. I've asked my harness supplier, but didn't get much of an answer.

I got my harness from swaptime, which includes an Eaton relay/fuse panel.

My problem with it is that nearly all of the fuses are 20amps. That does very little to protect the 18ga, and maybe smaller, wires.

I'm planning on swapping them all out with 5 amps and see what happens. If I blow one, bump up to 10amp, etc. I don't really know which circuit is which, either.

Anyone have any advice or relevant knowledge?

 

[NeverFinis]

You will need to identify the circuits. Here are my fuses for an E78/L96/6L90e. Fuses are sized from GM documentation.

Circuit	Relay	Fuse (A)	Target
2139	Ignition Relay 1	15A	6l90e
439	Ignition Relay 1	15A	E78 ECM
1339	Ignition Relay 1	10A	E78 ECM
1039	Ignition Relay 2	20A	Odd Injectors/Coils
1239	Ignition Relay 2	20A	Even Injectors/Coils
1939	Ignition Relay 3	15A	EVAP/Air Intake
539	Ignition Relay 3	10A	Pre O2 Sensors 1
1539	Ignition Relay 3	10A	Post O2 Sensors 2
6	Starter Relay	40A	Starter Relay
625	Starter Relay	None	Starter Relay Control
440	No	10A	E78 ECM
1840	No	10A	6l90e
465	Fuel Pump Relay	30A	Fuel Pump Relay Control
59	AC Relay	15A	A/C Clutch

 

[torfab]

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-Tor

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I have your airbox on a customer's 80 I really think you guys should include some type of connection to the inner fender so the air box pulls directly through it and not pulling hot air from engine bay being open on the back of the air box other than that it's a nice air box.
Tommy

 

[torfab]

We have a plate option to get a tube into the fender, but the problem is that the big V8 needs a 4" inlet which won't fit into that fender. Because of that I use a rubber seal between the box and the fender. It seems to work well in terms of measuring intake air temps with the V8 scan tool

 

[tmxmotorsports]

We have a plate option to get a tube into the fender, but the problem is that the big V8 needs a 4" inlet which won't fit into that fender. Because of that I use a rubber seal between the box and the fender. It seems to work well in terms of measuring intake air temps with the V8 scan tool

No rubber seal came with the air box. The 80 was built here in coastal nc the owner lives in Arizona Phoenix area I'm not able to create that hot place here. I haven't hooked my scan gauge to see the air intake temperature to see the difference. I'm just mentioning it because of the air gap between the airbox and inner fender.