2007 5.3L ls in 1991 80 series (1 Viewer)

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Yes, do a litlle digging, gm sells a kit, for dod delete, with the dod lifters gone and the oiling mod, (dod motors use a bigger pump with a pressure releif) that motor is unreal, gen 4 rods and good pistons..

You could also leave the dod in and functioning for mpg, just know that at 130k miles or when the lifters start to make noise on startup it needs lifters..
 
i sent my ECU for programing to shop who builds ls engines and i was told there is no need to remove the old stuff but if you run it off for some time and you decide to hock it up again it is not recommended because lifters get filed with sot and there is chance it will not work
alo i was told there is no kit for the delete if you decide to go that route you need to collect all parts but no kits
 
The dod lifters do fail even when disabled and there are lots of kits as it is a known wear point in those motors.. We have several chevy vans/suburbans at work and between 120k and 200k the DOD failed in all of them. These are highway crew haulers with good maintence.. on ours they just started throwing new dod lifters in when they started making noise on startup.. they let one go to long and it tore up the motor, oil pan was full of lifter parts and cam shards....


DOD / AFM Delete Kit for 5.3/6.0/6.2 Engines

this is the texas speed kit

GM (General Motors) - GMP-12570471 - DOD Delete Kit

gm kit..


beware the DOD cam is different (smaller lopes on 4 cylinders)

So if you do the swap you will need to get a used non DOD stock cam ( easy to get everyone upgrades usually free/12pack around here) the cam is roller so its ok to mix and match followers and cams..

There are alot of guys running 5.3's in drag/race applications so the stock stuff is free or case of beer kind of stuff ask around..

ls1tech has several threads on how to do it on the cheep without the ls2 valley cover and using stock used parts. Read a little more on the subject there is alot of info out there.

The two big things after the cam and lifters are blocking the oil passages (ls2 cover) and the oil pressure relief. Some people change the oil pump as the DOD pump is larger volume.

Good luck,

I have just seen several of these fail and with all the work you are doing would hate it to happen to you. Its much easier and cheaper to pull down now.
 
ok first problem
gas pedal from silverado does not fit offset to the right way to far
so my solution is
use whole pedal from 2005 colorado truck and swap the sensor from silverado pedal
and now i can make bracket any way i want it will fit perfect


Just a quick tip. The Corvette pedal has a metal arm that you can bend and weld into any shape. You just switch two wires in the plug and it works.
 
Thanks, that actually just solved a problem on another swap..
 
The dod lifters do fail even when disabled and there are lots of kits as it is a known wear point in those motors.. We have several chevy vans/suburbans at work and between 120k and 200k the DOD failed in all of them. These are highway crew haulers with good maintence.. on ours they just started throwing new dod lifters in when they started making noise on startup.. they let one go to long and it tore up the motor, oil pan was full of lifter parts and cam shards....


DOD / AFM Delete Kit for 5.3/6.0/6.2 Engines

this is the texas speed kit

GM (General Motors) - GMP-12570471 - DOD Delete Kit

gm kit..


beware the DOD cam is different (smaller lopes on 4 cylinders)

So if you do the swap you will need to get a used non DOD stock cam ( easy to get everyone upgrades usually free/12pack around here) the cam is roller so its ok to mix and match followers and cams..

There are alot of guys running 5.3's in drag/race applications so the stock stuff is free or case of beer kind of stuff ask around..

ls1tech has several threads on how to do it on the cheep without the ls2 valley cover and using stock used parts. Read a little more on the subject there is alot of info out there.

The two big things after the cam and lifters are blocking the oil passages (ls2 cover) and the oil pressure relief. Some people change the oil pump as the DOD pump is larger volume.

Good luck,

I have just seen several of these fail and with all the work you are doing would hate it to happen to you. Its much easier and cheaper to pull down now.
since you comment i ended up collecting parts for the whole dod delete but it is not just that simple i m replacing whole cam,16 lifters ,oil pump valve cover and rest off related parts if i knew it before there is no way for me to get engine with dod
 
since you comment i ended up collecting parts for the whole dod delete but it is not just that simple i m replacing whole cam,16 lifters ,oil pump valve cover and rest off related parts if i knew it before there is no way for me to get engine with dod

I think this a good move, I personally have seen quite a few well maintained DOD engines fail in valve/cam area for no reason
 
Yeah, I don't think they sold the 5.3 without AFM (GM's terminology for DOD). Wanting to avoid it was a big reason I looked at the 6.2, then I got lured in by the aluminum block and extra power.

I think it would be awesome if you could actually use dod. I would think it would make 20MPG a close reality. Personally I would not use dbw. Seems like a lot of work for not much gain.

Converting to a cable on these is more work and a lot more cost than setting up the DBW.
 
Yeah, I don't think they sold the 5.3 without AFM (GM's terminology for DOD). Wanting to avoid it was a big reason I looked at the 6.2, then I got lured in by the aluminum block and extra power.



Converting to a cable on these is more work and a lot more cost than setting up the DBW.
What do u have to do to convert it? Are u planning on running cruise control with dbw?
 
i have whole engine torn apart , now i decided to go with full rebuild
there is some engines without DOD i m using single bolt no DOD cam so i do not need to replace sprocket
go to bottom of the page and there is list LS based GM small-block engine - Wikipedia
and i m going with DBW i believe to go with cable option you need new throttle body ,cable,pedal and ECU must be totally reprogrammed
for cruise control i m going with something like this 250-1881 Cruise Control for GM LS Drive by Wire ETC Engines but will make it work with toyota controls
 
A DBW engine already has an electronic throttle body on it, so you have to replace that with a cable unit. You also need to find a way for the ECM to fine tune and step up idle when needed.

Yes I run cruise on my DBW swap. Many people buy a $400 module for this that uses an OBDII signal and interrupts/adjusts the throttle pedal signal to control speed. I elected to use the stock escalade Body Control Module for cruise and tap shifting, then change the resistors out on the Toyota cruise stalk so it looks/acts factory other than no light on the dash and twice the horsepower.
 
Throttle body and a throttle cable don't sound bad. You can reuse the stock Cruiser pedal. Programming needs to be done regardless unless you are using all the ecm functions which you probably are not. The dbc throttle body has a TPS and IAC on it for idle control which the ecm adjusts. DBW just seems like it's significantly more challenging to swap.
A DBW engine already has an electronic throttle body on it, so you have to replace that with a cable unit. You also need to find a way for the ECM to fine tune and step up idle when needed.

Yes I run cruise on my DBW swap. Many people buy a $400 module for this that uses an OBDII signal and interrupts/adjusts the throttle pedal signal to control speed. I elected to use the stock escalade Body Control Module for cruise and tap shifting, then change the resistors out on the Toyota cruise stalk so it looks/acts factory other than no light on the dash and twice the horsepower.
 
Throttle body and a throttle cable don't sound bad. You can reuse the stock Cruiser pedal. Programming needs to be done regardless unless you are using all the ecm functions which you probably are not. The dbc throttle body has a TPS and IAC on it for idle control which the ecm adjusts. DBW just seems like it's significantly more challenging to swap.

My pedal swap took a few hours, and keep it in context. The people swapping engines are already cutting and welding stuff like motor mounts, modifying fuel systems, dealing with the shifter linkage.. The pedal isn't any more difficult than that stuff. I was actually surprised how quickly it went, like you I had it in my head as more difficult than it turned out to be.

This is all beside the point anyway.. I'm not 100% sure but I don't think you can program an e38/e67 genIV ECM for drive by cable.
 

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