4l60 1st gear: 3.06
4l80 1st gear: 2.48
6l80 1st gear: 4.03
8l90 1st gear: 4.56
4l80 1st gear: 2.48
6l80 1st gear: 4.03
8l90 1st gear: 4.56
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (9 Viewers)
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Anyone looking for the parts to fit fuel rail covers to a LT1 conversion, you'll need the following:
GM Parts:
12705388 - Valve Cover Insulator (L)
12705391 - Valve Cover Insulator (R)
11609688 - Insulating cover stud (x4)
12641720 & 12643709 - Fuel rail appearance covers (Corvette logo)
There's a bunch of different rail covers available, both OE and through companies like RPI - Link below for custom:
Before:
After:
GM Parts:
12705388 - Valve Cover Insulator (L)
12705391 - Valve Cover Insulator (R)
11609688 - Insulating cover stud (x4)
12641720 & 12643709 - Fuel rail appearance covers (Corvette logo)
There's a bunch of different rail covers available, both OE and through companies like RPI - Link below for custom:
Before:
After:
Tell me more about this airbox. Like it a LOT! I'm currently running a cone style K&N, which is open to under hood. Looking for a solution like this.
It's the @torfab air box which draws cold air from the stock location through a Duramax cone filter. I'm sure Tor and his team can get you hooked up.
Just called them. No stock for 3-6mths. I’ll hopefully need a solution well before then. Also confirmed their adapter is for in-house builds only at this time.
Just observing / thinking / planning / dreaming
I read through a decent bit of this thread, and it seems like what is most common is people having cooling issues / getting the Toyota electronics to talk to the GM stuff.
Has anyone had issues with the axle components breaking? (when running larger tires?)
(IF I was to find an 80 to LS swap, I would be planning on installing an aluminum block 5.3)
And what about insurance? I dont think I saw too much about that in there
I read through a decent bit of this thread, and it seems like what is most common is people having cooling issues / getting the Toyota electronics to talk to the GM stuff.
Has anyone had issues with the axle components breaking? (when running larger tires?)
(IF I was to find an 80 to LS swap, I would be planning on installing an aluminum block 5.3)
And what about insurance? I dont think I saw too much about that in there
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thatcabledude
GOLD Star
There is something similar made for diesel 80s by the Australian company “Moonlight”. It may be useable with V8 swaps also. I believe it uses the duramax filter as well. It’s a panel filter.
I was the guinea pig for the adapter ... which took some engineering and 8 months or so to figure out. I'm sure they'll open up supply if there's enough demand (assuming the early adopters don't have catastrophic failures). On the upside, they're made here in the US so it's not going to get stuck off Long Beach in a container for months.
My insurance wasn't effected.
Bigger tires and more power is always going to be harder on driveline. Assuming you regear the primary component that faces the challenge is your axles. Birfs and stock stubs are the weakest point - upgraded mine to RCVs. Left stock rears in for now.
I'm running 4.88's, low range t-case gears, 37's and a 6.2. I did proactively upgrade the front and rear axle shafts to RCV 300M's to help, but I've only been able to wheel the truck a handful of times.
While the LS should certainly be capable to breaking stuff easier than the 1FZ, I personally feel the smoothness of drive-by-wire, coupled with the other elements of my truck have reduced how much skinny I feel is needed. Maybe I just need to wheel it more or do harder trails, but the truck feels far more composed off-road with the LS.
I personally chose a "stated value" policy through hagerty. The premium hurts, but knock on wood, if i have a total loss, it'll HOPEFULLY do what it needs to.
torfab
Supporting Vendor
I'm going to touch base on our adapter for a minute since @Feldrian mentioned it. We made it because the 8 and 10 speed transmissions are so smooth, and after a lot of effort to make the 6 speed work the way I wanted it with our LT4 conversion, I decided to make our own adapter. At this time we have 3 installed in vehicles, and we're so far very happy with the results. The latest was an L87 6.2 with 10L80e, and that combo has turned out great. We designed the adapter with a set of bolt-in motor mounts as well, so the whole combo can be installed without welding to the frame at all, and you use the stock shifters for trans and T-case.
At the moment, we are probably going to keep it in house until I see enough of our conversions with no adverse conditions. That LT4 is by no means a slouch, so I know the hardened spud shaft can handle the power. I'll reconsider in the near future though if there's enough demand
At the moment, we are probably going to keep it in house until I see enough of our conversions with no adverse conditions. That LT4 is by no means a slouch, so I know the hardened spud shaft can handle the power. I'll reconsider in the near future though if there's enough demand
if you do not mind sharing, what is your "stated value" and what are you paying?
I was digging around other sites, looks like with the Hagerty stated value stuff, as long as you have your receipts showing the value of parts you have in it, that you are good to go
(Someone else's gripe was that they dont want that info when you insure the vehicle, but if you file a claim on it, they will want all of the receipts for XYZ)
I opted for $70k in coverage @ $275/month. Hopefully some of the recent BaT madness will also help if the price needs to be substantiated.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Nice. Unlimited mileage per year? Any oddish requirements? Like where you park?
They did ask me where it's garaged, but nothing else came from that request.
I've "heard" they don't like seeing >5k miles/year on a car, but I have a hagerty rep in our office and he tells me not to sweat it. I'm at ~one year since my swap was completed and have put 12k miles on the truck so I may go back to hagerty and get some concrete feedback since it seems to be a gray area.
Hi all, I’m new to the site and have really enjoyed reading though this thread. I’m starting a swap December 1, and have started gathering parts.
I’m starting with a very nice 96 with 140k on it, I will be selling the motor and transmission as a package if anyone is interested.
I have a 2006 LS2 out of an SSR, I purchased the motor and transmission complete with 30k on it. I’m considering using the
FITch Fuel Iniection Ultimate LS EFI
Induction System LS1/LS2/LS6 500HP
Has anyone used this system before, Jason at The Land Cruiser shop was very helpful today with tons of information. Thanks for any help
I’m starting with a very nice 96 with 140k on it, I will be selling the motor and transmission as a package if anyone is interested.
I have a 2006 LS2 out of an SSR, I purchased the motor and transmission complete with 30k on it. I’m considering using the
FITch Fuel Iniection Ultimate LS EFI
Induction System LS1/LS2/LS6 500HP
Has anyone used this system before, Jason at The Land Cruiser shop was very helpful today with tons of information. Thanks for any help
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 581
- Messages
- 16,304
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
FI Tech software is trash, either go stock GM ECU, either Gen 3 0r 4 P01/P59/E67 or go Holley XMax if you think you're going to want to play with your tune and I/O
Second the Holley Xmax.. I'm running it and it's been great.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Hell no to the FiTech. Did the engine come with the harness and ECM?
