thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I dont know. I don't guess it matters as a lot of tuners just have their's on a holder that can be clamped on the tip of any exhaust.
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thatcabledude
GOLD Star
That shop is in Colorado at 5200' elevation BTW.
If your checking for emissions gasses on a dyno then I would check after the cat which is what Denver emissions centers do on the emissions dyno, but tuning for power I would personally want it b4 the cat. In the video they complain about the air fuel readings being off. They say it has a exhaust leak, but a exhaust leak has to be a really bad leak to throw off afr numbers from what I've seen. I'm also curious if the snorkel chokes the LS. The 80 snorkel isn't very big in diameter. I wonder how much lift that 80 has. It has a nice stance.
not only snorkel chokes it but air inlet on air filter box
Oh yeah I bet your right. What size is the stock air inlet? I'm guessing around 3"?
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I would have liked to see a pull with the airbox unhooked.
I read some similar info myself. I also read info from other sources saying after cat doesn't work well. So I don't know lol.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 186
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- 11,059
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
Old video, the build was not done and this is far less than it really had. Short video as well but hey it should go in here. 6L & 4L80.
Cheers
Cheers
Things are going back together. Need to figure out why my heat/ac won’t blow, and why my speedometer isn’t working.
a year ago yesterday the 1FZ-FE s*** the bed on me. Didn’t start the swap till mid March. Drove around, ran some errands, etc w/ it yesterday.
a year ago yesterday the 1FZ-FE s*** the bed on me. Didn’t start the swap till mid March. Drove around, ran some errands, etc w/ it yesterday.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
When I got mine all back together the speedometer wasn’t working because I accidentally deleted the power wire to the sensor on the t-case.
I was thinking it might be something like this, that or maybe the ground....
On my butt dyno/ 0-60 time I was not able to tell the difference with or without the air cleaner lid.
Thought I'd make a post on how I'm doing my ECU brake signals.
The PSI Conversions harness I'm using calls for:
12V Brakes Applied - Yellow wire
12V Brakes NOT Applied - Purple wire
The first is the typical brake light/ torque converter unlock signal. You could get the second output from that with a relay.
But the Land Cruiser has a double pole stop light switch. Turns out the cruise control system need a connection to ground when the brakes are NOT applied, which opens when the brakes are applied. From the CC wiring diagram:
The Green-Light Blue (G-L) wire into the top right of the stop switch is 12V straight from the fuse.
So if I join that to the Red wire at the top left of the stop switch, I should get what I need out of the Red-Green and Green-White wires at the bottom of the stop switch.
The Red and Green-Light Blue wires are accessible at the plug for the Cruise Control ECU under the DS dash.
The Green-White wire comes out at pin 8 of the IH1 connector at the PS firewall. Connect to the Yellow wire for the GM ECU
The Red-Green wire is accessible at the Cruise Control Actuator plug at the PS fender. Connect to the Purple wire for the GM ECU
If anyone sees anything wrong with this, light me up!
The PSI Conversions harness I'm using calls for:
12V Brakes Applied - Yellow wire
12V Brakes NOT Applied - Purple wire
The first is the typical brake light/ torque converter unlock signal. You could get the second output from that with a relay.
But the Land Cruiser has a double pole stop light switch. Turns out the cruise control system need a connection to ground when the brakes are NOT applied, which opens when the brakes are applied. From the CC wiring diagram:
The Green-Light Blue (G-L) wire into the top right of the stop switch is 12V straight from the fuse.
So if I join that to the Red wire at the top left of the stop switch, I should get what I need out of the Red-Green and Green-White wires at the bottom of the stop switch.
The Red and Green-Light Blue wires are accessible at the plug for the Cruise Control ECU under the DS dash.
The Green-White wire comes out at pin 8 of the IH1 connector at the PS firewall. Connect to the Yellow wire for the GM ECU
The Red-Green wire is accessible at the Cruise Control Actuator plug at the PS fender. Connect to the Purple wire for the GM ECU
If anyone sees anything wrong with this, light me up!
Here is bloc more elegantly explaining what you have acutely discovered. 2 posts later in post #264 is a picture of the wires I used to get my truck running.
forum.ih8mud.com
Technically you only need the R-G wire for GM's purposes, not sure what PSI needs the voltage for when brakes are applied?? Maybe a cruise control or some sort of ignition safety feature. AFAIK, GM uses +12v when brakes not applied for TCC control. But I'm unsure what engine you're installing and I only know gen3 vortecs. And by "know", I mean what I did on my truck which I have no idea if it is correct...but it drives and runs without wiring issues. Reference from LT1swap.com
Impending Vortec Swap
The stock brake light switch has both normally open and normally closed circuits, which is why there are four wires to it. Thing is the normally closed circuit (that you'd use for the GM ECU) is wired up to the cruise control.. Check your cruise EWD for details on how it operates (looks like on...
forum.ih8mud.com
Technically you only need the R-G wire for GM's purposes, not sure what PSI needs the voltage for when brakes are applied?? Maybe a cruise control or some sort of ignition safety feature. AFAIK, GM uses +12v when brakes not applied for TCC control. But I'm unsure what engine you're installing and I only know gen3 vortecs. And by "know", I mean what I did on my truck which I have no idea if it is correct...but it drives and runs without wiring issues. Reference from LT1swap.com
Here are some dyno numbers I found. They seem to show how much power is available just by doing a tune on a stock engine-messing with air fuel ratio and timing.
A stock Ls3 with a tune can make nearly 500hp and like 480tq.
www.superchevy.com
Keep in mind AFAIK these numbers are at the crank with no accessory drive at all which in a vehicle will normally take some hp. Also from what I understand when you get a tune you have to be careful how far they push it or else you'll have to run premium octane all the time.
A stock Ls3 with a tune can make nearly 500hp and like 480tq.
Chevrolet Performance LS3 Camshaft Dyno Test
See how we gave a Chevrolet Performance LS3 crate engine more power with a new camshaft. Check out the results of the dyno test here!
www.superchevy.com
Keep in mind AFAIK these numbers are at the crank with no accessory drive at all which in a vehicle will normally take some hp. Also from what I understand when you get a tune you have to be careful how far they push it or else you'll have to run premium octane all the time.
Last edited:
More LS power information in this video I thought was interesting...
BajaCruiser94
SILVER Star
Been looking for a previous post, I found the question was asked but no solid answer, so here I go...
On my LQ9 swap, the donor engine comes from a Escalade equiped with Hydroboost; I used the power steering pump that came with the engine; plugged the extra port as commented in this thread, I've been driving the rig for a year now; and im not liking the oversensitive steering at highway speeds.
Comparing specs, I found the following
- Toyota pump - 1500 psi and 2.750 GPM
- LS pump - 1300-1559 psi and 3.5-3.9 GPM (Escalade)
Is it possible that the Escalade pump added flow is driving the oversensitivity on the steering box? Pressure rates are in the ballpark, but flow is significantly higher.
Any thoughts on this, or has anyone encountered this problem on their swap?
-Emerson.
On my LQ9 swap, the donor engine comes from a Escalade equiped with Hydroboost; I used the power steering pump that came with the engine; plugged the extra port as commented in this thread, I've been driving the rig for a year now; and im not liking the oversensitive steering at highway speeds.
Comparing specs, I found the following
- Toyota pump - 1500 psi and 2.750 GPM
- LS pump - 1300-1559 psi and 3.5-3.9 GPM (Escalade)
Is it possible that the Escalade pump added flow is driving the oversensitivity on the steering box? Pressure rates are in the ballpark, but flow is significantly higher.
Any thoughts on this, or has anyone encountered this problem on their swap?
-Emerson.
You can adjust the pressure by swapping out the flow piston.
*Below parts are examples, find the exact one for your application*
or install a reducer fitting into the line like this:
Or install one of these
Heidts PS-101 Adjustable Power Steering Flow Valve
If you have power steering on your car and it has too much assist or a 'twitchy' feel to it you may have too much pressure to the rack or box. This nifty valve allows you to adjust the pressure and get the road feel you want. It has a 1/4" npt inlet and outlet for the pressure line, and a 3/8"...
or an adjustable pump.
I had a heidts flow regulator but I have since removed it. Never really got the chance to dial it in. I had power steering leaks all over the place, so I removed it and will add if I need to. Steering was definitely more reposonsive after I removed it.
