Impending Vortec Swap

bloc

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The stock brake light switch has both normally open and normally closed circuits, which is why there are four wires to it. Thing is the normally closed circuit (that you'd use for the GM ECU) is wired up to the cruise control.. Check your cruise EWD for details on how it operates (looks like on a 96 the brake switch normally completes circuit from the cruise module providing ground, to the cruise ECU. I know that the 97 cruise module is different but don't have that EWD in front of me.

If the GM ECU needs normal ground with the circuit opened upon pressing the brakes, it just may work. If the GM ECU needs +12v switched, you may be able to rig things up with the existing switch and some diodes to make sure current is going the correct direction.
 
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Crap, I hate solving problems I don't have. I'm only out $10....

Found where the other wires were buried. Cruise Control.

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Plugging away at the harness....

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iteration #2 on integrating the 2 systems. This should get the vehicle STARTED. This is with me planning on putting the pcm in the battery box.

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Spilled $270 at waytek to build my Fuse boxes. I should have plenty of places to hook in from now on 6 relays and 10 hot fuses. Going all out with metripack connections so the entire fuse block can be disconnected from harness.

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Question: Would people be interested if I took the time to put together a document that had step by step wiring instructions? I would probably host somewhere else (like a wordpress site) and then people could download. It would be a living a document which would evolve overtime based on feedback and my slow brain. But, more than anything, would compile the information. There are like 4 or 5 spreadsheets floating around, all for different year vehicles and you might as well make your own once you get going because you have to chase everything down and figure out what they mean. Don't get me wrong, it's a great start....

I know it's difficult because different year motors and different year 80's change things a bit. Also, there are many ways to skin a cat. but we can start with a Gen 3 motor from 2003-2006 (I think), an LX450 and how I'm doing it. ;)
 
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Question: Would people be interested if I took the time to put together a document that had step by step wiring instructions? I would probably host somewhere else (like a wordpress site) and then people could download. It would be a living a document which would evolve overtime based on feedback and my slow brain. But, more than anything, would compile the information. There are like 4 or 5 spreadsheets floating around, all for different year vehicles and you might as well make your own once you get going because you have to chase everything down and figure out what they mean. Don't get me wrong, it's a great start....

I know it's difficult because different year motors and different year 80's change things a bit. Also, there are many ways to skin a cat. but we can start with a Gen 3 motor from 2003-2006 (I think), an LX450 and how I'm doing it. ;)

I think is an outstanding idea! Yes please do this for myself and others who have plans to re-power down the road some.
 

bloc

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It is a great idea but it needs to include a bunch of caveats about how it is specific to your year and model only, same for the engine..
 
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It is a great idea but it needs to include a bunch of caveats about how it is specific to your year and model only, same for the engine..

agreed, which is why it is a BIG project. BUT, there is a lot of crossover...as always, the devil is in the details....
 

bloc

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Did you decide what to do about the fuel pump resistor? swapping wires at the relay so you don't have to trigger it?
 
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by passed both relays, circuit opening and fuel pump. Deleting resistor as well. Crimp, solder and seal connections, then taped. I plan to check continuity at the pump somehow before I button up, just haven't gotten around to it. I have to open up gas tank again and I plan to tap lid for pressure sensor. so, I'll do it then and probably check at IH2....
 

bloc

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The rectangular gray (I think) connector under the driver's side rear door sill is also for the fuel tank. Includes wires for fuel pump, level sender, light, etc. It'll be a pain in the butt to disconnect at first.. 20 years worth of dirt.. and probable underspray.. but another access point for testing.

(also a good/easy to access connector to unhook to avoid theft if parking long-term)
 
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The rectangular gray (I think) connector under the driver's side rear door sill is also for the fuel tank. Includes wires for fuel pump, level sender, light, etc. It'll be a pain in the butt to disconnect at first.. 20 years worth of dirt.. and probable underspray.. but another access point for testing.

(also a good/easy to access connector to unhook to avoid theft if parking long-term)

Yeah, FSM specifies to disconnect there when removing engine and then to try and start the vehicle to remove excess pressure. Also helpful is to bleed pressure from the gas tank if it builds pressure like mine. I'll have to make sure I button that one up before I test. Good reminder....
 

alia176

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Question: Would people be interested if I took the time to put together a document that had step by step wiring instructions? I would probably host somewhere else (like a wordpress site) and then people could download. It would be a living a document which would evolve overtime based on feedback and my slow brain. But, more than anything, would compile the information. There are like 4 or 5 spreadsheets floating around, all for different year vehicles and you might as well make your own once you get going because you have to chase everything down and figure out what they mean. Don't get me wrong, it's a great start....

I know it's difficult because different year motors and different year 80's change things a bit. Also, there are many ways to skin a cat. but we can start with a Gen 3 motor from 2003-2006 (I think), an LX450 and how I'm doing it. ;)


Yes, please do and I'll send some PP your way for the effort. Reading a summarized document vs piecing together info from various threads is worth sending someone some PP money. I may never do such a conversion but I like reading the technical aspects of a conversion which makes for a great read when you can't fall asleep :lol:
 
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Pcm question... If I buy a pcm from a Denali, will it run the 4l80e without any tuning? I can't open up the programming for the emissions dude... Or can I download a 2500 Silverado program and have it locked?

I need to figure out how to get through emissions with a locked tune package from a non heavy duty truck and 4l89e Trans....
 
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Here is a cheesy wiring diagram for the fuel pump if someone wants to use the stock wiring to fuel pump. I used the '95 ewd and looks to be same for 96 and 97.

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Fuse block will be nice and compact... A little smaller than I drew out. I'll have to move some relays around, but it will all fit.

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Harness is at the point I am ready to drop in... Got a few things to do first, mount power steering regulator, air hammer firewall... Dakota digital gear indicator. Hopefully putting motor in tomorrow....

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Best $12 I spent this week :)

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Motor is in.

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Probably got a head of myself and slapped in the radiator. Battery tray needs trimmed to get it to fit.

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Plenty of space between motor and rad....

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And, big battery won't fit the pcm in the box with it. Might move pcm where Toyota vapor canister was or switch batteries on my 80s.

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bloc

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When you cut that battery box be sure not to get any of the plastic/fibers on your bare skin.
 

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