8x Series V8 Swaps (8 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

glad to hear you guys are enjoying the higher rpm, im sitting on 5.29's as I get closer to being back on the road I was really hoping not to regear back to my 4.11's unless its was necessary

this is my current rpm range in theory based on 37s and 5.29's

mph-calculations-png.1108873
 
This post rolls forward from @thatcabledude #1091 back in February. I've tried to loop in a couple of folks that helped work through the EC1 wiring (@offr0adlim0 & @steve604 ) in that series of posts. but please anybody chime in

I am about in the same place as cable dude in february. I have only followed Rockrod's colored chart. And I have no speedo nor CDL (and no lockers, but I suspect that will take care of its self when I get the CDL). I am using both sides of the '1993 connector for EC1

@thatcabledude mentioned correcting Rockrod's chart to pick up 12v from pin 5 in IH1 But what wire in the EC1 bundle did that get connected to? Seems to me I need a couple more sources for 12v to energize the VSS & CDL & whatever else feeds up through this connector

@steve604 mentioned there are two grounds, brown-black and white-black OR brown. I have a white black AND a brown left open after the rockrod pinout can I assume they are grounds?

I guess basically I'm asking if somebody can hold my hand, and complete the wiring need for EC1, once one goes as far as rockrod's pinout. What does it take to correct, and complete after that point?

Have you gone to Alldatadiy.com ? you can buy an annual subscription for $20 and have every electrical wiring diagram,wire color and connector view you could ever need. And you can print any and all out
 
Has anyone put a GenV engine in an 80 yet? I've been doing a bunch of research on the differences and think I have a good handle on it now...except for the cost.
 
Has anyone put a GenV engine in an 80 yet? I've been doing a bunch of research on the differences and think I have a good handle on it now...except for the cost.
That would be awesome.
 
Have you gone to Alldatadiy.com ? you can buy an annual subscription for $20 and have every electrical wiring diagram,wire color and connector view you could ever need. And you can print any and all out


Thanks for the reminder @Squad1

I added an update to the pinouts on this thread
Vortec Swap - Pin Out Sheets
for EC1
 
my solution for coolant bypass valve, micro switch and normally open toyota solenoid ,when you move climate selector to hot micro switch shuts off solenoid and solenoid cuts off vacuum flow




update on my solution everything works what i did but the valve failed already it started to leak this was cheap one from auto advance
now i m truing by pass valve with electronic actuator made by thermotion part # 354-69494 other good option is GM oem AC DELCO part #15-5533 stay away from aftermarket one
 
I did some fuel pressure testing yesterday with my lq9 and stock 310k fuel pump. Stock GM regulator set at 58psi. Mine holds 58-60psi all the way up to about 4500rpm floored in first gear where it starts dropping to about 55psi. I'll probably switch to a walbro because it seems to me the stock pump maxs out right at the top end. Just throwing out some random data I got if anyone cares.
 
Regarding the heater hose, why are folks not just using the stock heater valve? The heater hoses on a LSx engine do not need to be looped or connected, they can be blocked off with no effect on the motor. The water pump and thermostat are set up to bypass coolant internally when the engine is warming up. Here is a pretty good video showing how the water pump works:

 
Regarding the heater hose, why are folks not just using the stock heater valve? The heater hoses on a LSx engine do not need to be looped or connected, they can be blocked off with no effect on the motor. The water pump and thermostat are set up to bypass coolant internally when the engine is warming up. Here is a pretty good video showing how the water pump works:


agreed. I run a LQ9 in my Jeep with the heater barbs removed and plugged and no issues
 
So i see all these v8 swaps but almost no one ever goes back and updates on mileage with their conversion. curious as i have a 96 fzj80 and have been considering a 5.3, 6.0 or even a 2uz swap. obviously the 1fz-fe is sluggish and lacks power compared to a lot of vehicles. Just curious.

fyi this is my 1 st post as my new log in. used to be a member back in the day, but life happens and somehow i cant get my old login to work.
 
I did a 5.7 corvette engine, with RV cam and Truck intake manifold. I am getting 12.5-13.5, but I have a hard time keeping my foot out of it.
I raced a G63 AMG, It was very close to 100 mph... Mine has 33" and 2.5 lift
 
So i see all these v8 swaps but almost no one ever goes back and updates on mileage with their conversion. curious as i have a 96 fzj80 and have been considering a 5.3, 6.0 or even a 2uz swap. obviously the 1fz-fe is sluggish and lacks power compared to a lot of vehicles. Just curious.

fyi this is my 1 st post as my new log in. used to be a member back in the day, but life happens and somehow i cant get my old login to work.
I get 15ish. I'm always mashing though. 5.3, 4l60e, part time'd 315s,
 
I actually found an exhaust leak near my o2 and now I get about 12mpg
 
Ok so so there is a mpg increase that is for sure. I looked into the part time kit to help it out. I'm really surprised that no US company makes adapters for the common 4l60 or 4l80 swaps. All I see is Marks or advanced has their adapter for their own case. I have a machine shop and have machined my own adapters before. It's not that difficult. Seems like a 5.3 or 4.7(2uz) would be the way to go.

Hijack off, back to the main focus of this thread
 
@Lost Industries if you are considering making an adapter.

The details are a little foggy, but years ago when I was initially researching my swap, it seemed some folks had trouble with the fitment of the adapter (Advanced gets theirs from Marks). If I remember right, the location of the T-case shifter was slightly off. Seemed to
me there was a change (AT or T-case) during the 80 series production run, and the adapter was designed for one configuration and not the other.

If you are interested in chasing the details, there may be a market for a second type of adapter. ( my ‘93 with an A442F bolted right in as expected )
 
@ aktundra, I make a lot of random parts to fill gaps in the market. There just has to be enough of a need to justify going forward. I make girdles for an audi 2.7 twin turbo v6. Never thought there was a market but one of my customers has me run 3 batches now. That little motor has awesome torque down low and very reliable. 4-500 hp and torque. He has one that has 40k on it daily driven and is dynoed at the wheels-> 655hp and 638 torque.

I understand a lot of variables play into mpg. That's why knowing motor, trans, gears and tire size help plus weight. My 80 right now weighs 5150.
 
Ok so so there is a mpg increase that is for sure. I looked into the part time kit to help it out. I'm really surprised that no US company makes adapters for the common 4l60 or 4l80 swaps. All I see is Marks or advanced has their adapter for their own case. I have a machine shop and have machined my own adapters before. It's not that difficult. Seems like a 5.3 or 4.7(2uz) would be the way to go.

Hijack off, back to the main focus of this thread
2uz takes up a lot more engine space since its dohc. Also you only gain about 30hp with a 2uz compared to a 1fz. I thought about putting a turbo on a 1fz rather than going LS, but then you still have about 12mpg. With the LS I have infinite options when it comes to uprading the motor and close to 20mpg. Marks offroad adapters-although made in australia-are not hard to get. I think if you want to make adapters for the 80 for which their would be some of a demand, I would consider a adapter for the 1fz auto trans to a atlas tcase or fj60 split case tcase. I think that would sell fairly well if not really well so that 1fz guys have lower tcase gearing. The stock tcase in a 80 right now can only be upgraded to 3:1 gearing, which many don't find low enough. And dual cases can't fit because of the fuel tank location.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom