8x Series V8 Swaps

Lost Industries

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2uz takes up a lot more engine space since its dohc. Also you only gain about 30hp with a 2uz compared to a 1fz. I thought about putting a turbo on a 1fz rather than going LS, but then you still have about 12mpg. With the LS I have infinite options when it comes to uprading the motor and close to 20mpg. Marks offroad adapters-although made in australia-are not hard to get. I think if you want to make adapters for the 80 for which their would be some of a demand, I would consider a adapter for the 1fz auto trans to a atlas tcase or fj60 split case tcase. I think that would sell fairly well if not really well so that 1fz guys have lower tcase gearing. The stock tcase in a 80 right now can only be upgraded to 3:1 gearing, which many don't find low enough. And dual cases can't fit because of the fuel tank location.
I know it's not a huge jump in from the 1fz-fe to the 2uz. I also have an 01 sequoia with the 4.7. Drastically different to drive. Way more power and much better mpg. Pulled a 21 ft boat for yrs with it, no problems. No way I would pull that boat with the 1fz-fe. I actually spent a bunch of time porting, polishing and blending the intake and exhaust on the 1fz-fe head. I got my 96 from original owner with blown headgasket. Rebuilt it with oem .020 over kit and even did crower stage 1 cams. Worst decision ever. Doesn't seem to run any better than a stock 1fz-fe imo. The 4.7 is a peppy little motor that has better power and is readily available. I totally thought about a 5.3 with a 4l80 or 6l80. Tuning and stand alone is very easy. At that point why not use an atlas. Part time, lower gearing, and basically for the cost of the adapter.

What motor/drive train setup you running?
 
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I know it's not a huge jump in from the 1fz-fe to the 2uz. I also have an 01 sequoia with the 4.7. Drastically different to drive. Way more power and much better mpg. Pulled a 21 ft boat for yrs with it, no problems. No way I would pull that boat with the 1fz-fe. I actually spent a bunch of time porting, polishing and blending the intake and exhaust on the 1fz-fe head. I got my 96 from original owner with blown headgasket. Rebuilt it with oem .020 over kit and even did crower stage 1 cams. Worst decision ever. Doesn't seem to run any better than a stock 1fz-fe imo. The 4.7 is a peppy little motor that has better power and is readily available. I totally thought about a 5.3 with a 4l80 or 6l80. Tuning and stand alone is very easy. At that point why not use an atlas. Part time, lower gearing, and basically for the cost of the adapter.

What motor/drive train setup you running?
The 4.7 is a ok motor, I dont like it enough to swap it in anything though. I have a 5.3 with 4l60e. It's not for wheeling really, it's going to be my daily driver, so I like the stock tcase for snowy/wet roads. It's not fast but it is quick. If u want to do a motor swap and decide against diesel, a LS is the way to go. All I have left is to wire up cruise control and install a fan shroud and the swap is done. It's quiet, and a nice drive. I used a stock 5.7 tundra muffler so it sounds just like a new tundra but it's a LS lol. A lot of people just dont have the money for a motor swap, but would like a lower tcase gear ratio. So if u want to make a adapter for 1fz guys for that I'm sure you'd sell some. A atlas is a good route if your tilted to offroad with it a bit if u can go v8.
 

Lost Industries

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I'm leaning towards the 5.3/4l80 combo now the more I think about it. Maybe a 6.0l. No way I'd go diesel personally, seen a few 4bt and 5.9 swaps locally and their loud and not worth the extra weight and hassle. That's just me though. The 80 for me is directed at family exploring, camping, fishing etc. Light wheeling. I've been rock crawling hardcore stuff here in AZ for over 10yrs. I have 74 fj40 buggy for the crazy stuff. I do like the AWD aspect for fast driving on dirt rds and in snow/rain. Lower tcase gears would be plenty of gearing for the intended goal. My end goal is 37s, but bumpers, sliders rack and a v8 with power.
 
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I'm leaning towards the 5.3/4l80 combo now the more I think about it. Maybe a 6.0l. No way I'd go diesel personally, seen a few 4bt and 5.9 swaps locally and their loud and not worth the extra weight and hassle. That's just me though. The 80 for me is directed at family exploring, camping, fishing etc. Light wheeling. I've been rock crawling hardcore stuff here in AZ for over 10yrs. I have 74 fj40 buggy for the crazy stuff. I do like the AWD aspect for fast driving on dirt rds and in snow/rain. Lower tcase gears would be plenty of gearing for the intended goal. My end goal is 37s, but bumpers, sliders rack and a v8 with power.
If your going with a 4l80 a inch or two body lift would really help. The trans tunnel is tight with a 4l60e on mine with no body lift. I almost did a body lift but was lazy and just made it work, but the extra room would have been nice. U may be able to do a 4l80e without a body lift, but if your going 37s and bumpers, may as well do a 2" body lift to help give more room for the swap and reduce suspension lift height for the 37s to help get better link angles. I would go either 5.3 or 6.2. I wouldn't go 6.0-if your going for cubes why not go full Monty to the 6.2 if your doing all that work. The 5.3 is nice if you are ok with less power, more mileage, and ease to find used for cheap. The 5.3 will also last longer since it has less stroke. With the 5.3 you can always supercharge it to whatever power level u want later down the road as well. My 80 will be towing my 40 to trails, so I have no need for 35s or 37s or even a suspension lift. I want to be able to corner well and take 80mph without handling issues, and get good gas mileage.
 
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Lq4/4l80e 35s and 5.29s
I haven’t driven it enough to get an idea on mileage. I’ll be going back to 4.10s eventually and currently have it pulled apart again while I ditch the gm efi for Fitech.
 

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Lq4/4l80e 35s and 5.29s
I haven’t driven it enough to get an idea on mileage. I’ll be going back to 4.10s eventually and currently have it pulled apart again while I ditch the gm efi for Fitech.
Cool. That's one of the main reasons I haven't worried about gearing yet. With a v8 4.56 would be pretty good with 37s, maybe 4.88 at the deepest. Having issues with the gm efi?
 
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Cool. That's one of the main reasons I haven't worried about gearing yet. With a v8 4.56 would be pretty good with 37s, maybe 4.88 at the deepest. Having issues with the gm efi?
Yeah not happy with the gm setup, mostly the dbw throttle. I randomly get a throttle error code that kicks it into limp mode. I’m looking forward to a throttle cable again!
 
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Yeah not happy with the gm setup, mostly the dbw throttle. I randomly get a throttle error code that kicks it into limp mode. I’m looking forward to a throttle cable again!
You can reflash the gm ecu to work with a drive by cable throttle body and swap out the throttle body/intake. A lot of people use dbw in their swaps, but I myself wanted drive by cable.
 
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You can reflash the gm ecu to work with a drive by cable throttle body and swap out the throttle body/intake. A lot of people use dbw in their swaps, but I myself wanted drive by cable.
From what I could find, you can only do that to certain ecus. Mines one that can’t run a cable throttle, so I’d need a new ecu and re pin the ecu plugs. Or rip it all out and go aftermarket.
 
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From what I could find, you can only do that to certain ecus. Mines one that can’t run a cable throttle, so I’d need a new ecu and re pin the ecu plugs. Or rip it all out and go aftermarket.
Are the ecu pins on your current harness of the same pin type of the ecu u would need? On my harness it's pretty easy to move ecu pins around. What have u done to diag/repair your current setup?
 

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What's the consensus on the Marks engine mount brackets? I've seen some saying they were a perfect fit, some saying they had to clearance the firewall.

Are there any vibrations in drive while stopped?
 
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If your going with a 4l80 a inch or two body lift would really help. The trans tunnel is tight with a 4l60e on mine with no body lift. I almost did a body lift but was lazy and just made it work, but the extra room would have been nice. U may be able to do a 4l80e without a body lift, but if your going 37s and bumpers, may as well do a 2" body lift to help give more room for the swap and reduce suspension lift height for the 37s to help get better link angles. I would go either 5.3 or 6.2. I wouldn't go 6.0-if your going for cubes why not go full Monty to the 6.2 if your doing all that work. The 5.3 is nice if you are ok with less power, more mileage, and ease to find used for cheap. The 5.3 will also last longer since it has less stroke. With the 5.3 you can always supercharge it to whatever power level u want later down the road as well. My 80 will be towing my 40 to trails, so I have no need for 35s or 37s or even a suspension lift. I want to be able to corner well and take 80mph without handling issues, and get good gas mileage.
Personally I prefer the cast iron block in off-road situations. Not sure if I’d ever hurt an aluminum block, just like cast iron if I wanted to add power adders later on. Probably sales hype from a guy selling aftermarket performance blocks who asks if you want your crank to walk like spaghetti. Vortec from early 2010 up until the point they go to direct injection. Gotta have the 6L80 or 90 for the lower ratio. If I have to lift the body 2 inches then that works too.
 
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