thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I made mine with the same materials/same way and have 80k+ miles on them.
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bloc
SILVER Star
No sealant when I assembled. I ended up selling the vehicle after a couple years but haven’t heard of any issues.
Thinking of swapping in a 5.3 if I keep my LX450. Started the same swap
in my 79 IH Traveler before I sold it. Issue for the 4.5L is power and fuel consumption as it was with IH 345 V8. Will need to get up to speed on the latest as it has been a long time since I read up up LS swaps for the 80 Series.
in my 79 IH Traveler before I sold it. Issue for the 4.5L is power and fuel consumption as it was with IH 345 V8. Will need to get up to speed on the latest as it has been a long time since I read up up LS swaps for the 80 Series.
When I do mine, I'm going to use the Torfab GM Gen V kit. Then grab a newer 5.3L with an 8 or 10 speed transmission. It takes all the guesswork out of it for me. I'm good with wiring and enjoy doing it too (I know, I'm weird), so being able to drop the drivetrain in and not having to measure angles, depth, figuring out engine mounts, etc is huge for me. The Gen V 5.3L torque curve is sooo sweet and it's easy to get more power out of.
That kit looks great.
If I wasn't so deep in my swap that is what I would do.
I am currently in the first stage of the swap and may have a found the 5.3 w 4L65 drivetrain, in the spirit of RockRod's build. I am thinking the DBC setup will mitigate some of the alterations/fabrication (e.g., pedal swap).
My question are people using one of the aftermarket hand held tuners (enable a stock, tow, and performance profile) or getting a little more performance factored in when you have the PCM flashed?
My question are people using one of the aftermarket hand held tuners (enable a stock, tow, and performance profile) or getting a little more performance factored in when you have the PCM flashed?
I’d recommend getting a tune done. You’ll want to turn off a bunch of codes, electric fan control points maybe. Emissions stuff, vats. You’ll most likely need to find someone local.
After reading through all 172 pages of this thread I have compiled a listing of do's and dont's as well as a parts listing. I am leaning toward utilizing PSI or Speartech for the harness and PCM flash as they have good reviews and can do everything in house. I have checked locally but have not found a tuner that I feel comfortable with yet.
So far I have the following needing to be "adjusted" when getting the PCM flashed: VATS, disabling electric fans (going to run a mechanical setup), adding/adjusting the AC clutch circuit/signal, adjust tire size and flash t show the 80 series info not the GM (not sure if this is possible). I am also leaning toward having no emissions as my state does not require it. I am sure there are some other things I am missing but will have to look through my notes.
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You’ll find a tuner. When you get your exhaust built. Put in an extra O2 port for a “wide band” o2 sensor for tuning. You can drive down the road with a test o2 sensor in and continue to calibrate. Check Fb and any machine shops for a tuner. You’ll find one. It’s not hard, they can’t really screw anything up. My buddy and I did it ourselves with free software. Watch some videos on PC Hammer. You can get all that done for free. Just takes a little time.
So I'm finalizing my L8T engine location in my FJ80 frame, but I don't have a body for reference 
My reference points are the rear of the original 1FZ head. And centerline of the engine. Goal being to keep the engine as low and rearward as possible.
I'm utilizing the original trans crossmember and the lower portion of the mount. After mounting an oem chevy mount, and 1" tube to help offset the bolts to the rear, I still needed some vertical offset, and the original FJ80 mount fit tge bill. Factory crossmember and the chevy mount result in a 1"offset to the drivers side.
Troublespot is the left exhaust flange. I'm having to raise the front of the engine more than I had hoped, but don't really want to scallop into my frame rail to gain the clearance.
I've looked through a few pages of this thread, but haven't seen exactly what I'm looking for. I just wonder what others think of this engine position and mounting. Keep in mind tge L8T is just over 400hp.
There will be some boxing and gussets of those mounts. And the front of the engine is centered. So the engine is not quite parallel to the frame, providing it is symmetrical.
My reference points are the rear of the original 1FZ head. And centerline of the engine. Goal being to keep the engine as low and rearward as possible.
I'm utilizing the original trans crossmember and the lower portion of the mount. After mounting an oem chevy mount, and 1" tube to help offset the bolts to the rear, I still needed some vertical offset, and the original FJ80 mount fit tge bill. Factory crossmember and the chevy mount result in a 1"offset to the drivers side.
Troublespot is the left exhaust flange. I'm having to raise the front of the engine more than I had hoped, but don't really want to scallop into my frame rail to gain the clearance.
I've looked through a few pages of this thread, but haven't seen exactly what I'm looking for. I just wonder what others think of this engine position and mounting. Keep in mind tge L8T is just over 400hp.
There will be some boxing and gussets of those mounts. And the front of the engine is centered. So the engine is not quite parallel to the frame, providing it is symmetrical.
I am using these mounts because he already did all the hard work figuring out where they need to go.
www.cruisermatts.com
80 Series Land Cruiser LS / Vortec Conversion Weld-in Motor Mount Kit — CruiserMatt's Off-Road & Performance
This item is on pre-order. Current lead time is 2 weeks. These brackets utilize the commonly found mounts found on all GM Vortec trucks and vans from 1999-on. Using a OEM-style setup provides a OEM quality experience that universal-style products can’t match in terms of comfort, longevity, and eas
www.cruisermatts.com
In my opinion you really need the body on the frame to do this.So I'm finalizing my L8T engine location in my FJ80 frame, but I don't have a body for reference
My reference points are the rear of the original 1FZ head. And centerline of the engine. Goal being to keep the engine as low and rearward as possible.
I'm utilizing the original trans crossmember and the lower portion of the mount. After mounting an oem chevy mount, and 1" tube to help offset the bolts to the rear, I still needed some vertical offset, and the original FJ80 mount fit tge bill. Factory crossmember and the chevy mount result in a 1"offset to the drivers side.
Troublespot is the left exhaust flange. I'm having to raise the front of the engine more than I had hoped, but don't really want to scallop into my frame rail to gain the clearance.
I've looked through a few pages of this thread, but haven't seen exactly what I'm looking for. I just wonder what others think of this engine position and mounting. Keep in mind tge L8T is just over 400hp.
There will be some boxing and gussets of those mounts. And the front of the engine is centered. So the engine is not quite parallel to the frame, providing it is symmetrical.
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I hear you. But I'm in Ohio with the FJ80 chassis and the FJ60 body is in moab.
Surely someone has a measurement or two from the very front crossmember to the engine damper.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Take @White Stripe advice even if you get measurements I would only tack things in placeI hear you. But I'm in Ohio with the FJ80 chassis and the FJ60 body is in moab.
Surely someone has a measurement or two from the very front crossmember to the engine damper.
I too suggest you have the 60 body on the 80 frame...
With that said.....
Hooker headers (if you haven't) will keep you away from the frame rails and possibly have engine sit lower.
At the time i used Cámaro E Manifolds
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Guys, he has a Gen 5.
Couple pieces of advice. 100% absolutely skip that style motor mount. They are OK for about a year and then you will blow the bushings out. Not only from my experience but others as well. Think about the actual surface area between the bolt and bushing, contact, it's the size of a pencil. Those are for race/drift cars that don't have lot of chassis flex and have high upkeep.
If you choose to ignore this advice and keep going with that style, those short tabs will rip off the frame eventually. Whatever you do needs to be plated and use the entire height of the frame rail.
Theoretically you could buy Gen 3/4 to Gen 5 adapter plates and use my kit but you would probably be better off just fabbing brackets to use the Gen 5 truck mount designed for your block.
@ceylonfj40nut is in the middle of a 60/80/LS and will probably be able to give you measurement soon but he is using Gen 3/4 so keep that in mind. I would still follow the others advice and wait till you have the body.
Couple pieces of advice. 100% absolutely skip that style motor mount. They are OK for about a year and then you will blow the bushings out. Not only from my experience but others as well. Think about the actual surface area between the bolt and bushing, contact, it's the size of a pencil. Those are for race/drift cars that don't have lot of chassis flex and have high upkeep.
If you choose to ignore this advice and keep going with that style, those short tabs will rip off the frame eventually. Whatever you do needs to be plated and use the entire height of the frame rail.
Theoretically you could buy Gen 3/4 to Gen 5 adapter plates and use my kit but you would probably be better off just fabbing brackets to use the Gen 5 truck mount designed for your block.
@ceylonfj40nut is in the middle of a 60/80/LS and will probably be able to give you measurement soon but he is using Gen 3/4 so keep that in mind. I would still follow the others advice and wait till you have the body.
So I'm finalizing my L8T engine location in my FJ80 frame, but I don't have a body for reference
My reference points are the rear of the original 1FZ head. And centerline of the engine. Goal being to keep the engine as low and rearward as possible.
I'm utilizing the original trans crossmember and the lower portion of the mount. After mounting an oem chevy mount, and 1" tube to help offset the bolts to the rear, I still needed some vertical offset, and the original FJ80 mount fit tge bill. Factory crossmember and the chevy mount result in a 1"offset to the drivers side.
Troublespot is the left exhaust flange. I'm having to raise the front of the engine more than I had hoped, but don't really want to scallop into my frame rail to gain the clearance.
I've looked through a few pages of this thread, but haven't seen exactly what I'm looking for. I just wonder what others think of this engine position and mounting. Keep in mind tge L8T is just over 400hp.
There will be some boxing and gussets of those mounts. And the front of the engine is centered. So the engine is not quite parallel to the frame, providing it is symmetrical.
Been doing some pricing on an LS Swap for the ol girl. Anyone have any recommendations for places in TX? I just talked to a guy from Texas LS Solutions in Dallas. Found their shop on FB Marketplace
I am not there yet. Still getting body mounts fabbed and then tacked. LM7/4L60E/80 transfer case. I can share when I get there. Echo others, get the body on frame. Lots of things to triangulate. It has helped me tremendously to keep front clip on the body as I separated it from the 60 chassis. Some folks cut down the rear pinch welds on the 60 body to lower the body closer to the chassis, i did not want to do this. My body will sit higher. Just to note. With this height difference i may have more firewall movement clearance due to the engine firewall identation shape.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Have they done any swaps in landcruisers ?
