If you already have the fuel module... here is the mounting ring..
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If you already have the fuel module... here is the mounting ring..
I had to replace the lock position switches that are on the diffs and t-case. I believe they are notorious for failing over time. If you look for a Land cruiser one they are expensive but for toyota parts, they also cross reference to a tacoma part for cheap. I did not get a rebuild kit for the t-case motor, I had to just open it up and clean it and "sand" resurface the armature and stator contacts and re-grease. Good as new.why did you replace the lock switches? also, where did you find a rebuild kit for the transfer case motor?
Steve, I have a Gen V L83 in mine, and don't use a PWM pump. I used an aeromotive 240 pump mounted in the stock fuel pump module. I added an AN bulkhead fitting for the return and ran an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. Basically the same setup as an LS.Well, 2 problems. Maybe 3.
This isn't an LS
The chevy LT system uses a pulse width modified (pwm) signal to drive the pump. Variable speed, basically. No return fuel line.
And 2nd... i have 2 stock tanks. Both are absolute junk.
3rd, the center driveshaft location now might have interfered with the stock tank anyway.
What the hell - 4. Would like increased capacity.
So that big open space in the rear of the frame is just too tempting.
Couple pieces of advice. 100% absolutely skip that style motor mount. They are OK for about a year and then you will blow the bushings out. Not only from my experience but others as well. Think about the actual surface area between the bolt and bushing, contact, it's the size of a pencil. Those are for race/drift cars that don't have lot of chassis flex and have high upkeep.
If you choose to ignore this advice and keep going with that style, those short tabs will rip off the frame eventually. Whatever you do needs to be plated and use the entire height of the frame rail.
Theoretically you could buy Gen 3/4 to Gen 5 adapter plates and use my kit but you would probably be better off just fabbing brackets to use the Gen 5 truck mount
This is gonna be a little bit more involved.
Factory mounts won't even drop between the frame rails.
Raises the engine 3-1/2 above where I want it.
I'm looking these over and considering using them upside down. The in² of rubber looks to be the same with the difference being one side is square, and the other is round.
I don't like the though of using a 3 bolt urethane LS mount with an adapter.
I had not seen those before.@AcroSteve I used these "biscuit style" motor mounts for my L83.
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Trans-Dapt Performance Products 4605
Free Shipping - Trans-Dapt Performance Products 4605 with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Motor Mounts and Inserts at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
If LT and LS engine mount bosses are the same (google says they are), why is the Torfab mount design so elegant and simple while others are cutting the frame stands off?
While the bolt patterns may be the same the LT and LS mounts are on different locations of the block.If LT and LS engine mount bosses are the same (google says they are), why is the Torfab mount design so elegant and simple while others are cutting the frame stands off?
While the bolt patterns may be the same the LT and LS mounts are on different locations of the block.
This one?
View attachment 3360575
I believe this would not bolt directly to an 80 frame and work. But I might be wrong.
Here are LS to LT conversion mounting plates. You can see the difference in mounting.
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Engine Swap Mount LS to LT engine
Billet Aluminum Engine Swap Mount FOR LT Engine. Use for retrofitting LT engine into the place where a GM LS Chevy lived previously. Used when replacing LS series engine with 2014 and newer Gen. V LT series engines. These plates locate the LT engine in the factory LS bellhousing and crankshaft...www.mastmotorsports.com
Nice find. With that visual of the differences I'm still not sure why the frame stands need to be cut off. Looks like there's room to use the 80 series rubber mount.
Still just mocking up, don't worry about the connection to the mount that's bolted to the block. I'm just utilizing them for the block plate and ran a piece of bar through to hold them together. I will probably cut away a portion of the tube part before welding. If that's the route I go.
I don't see any difference in the way the force of the engine will affect the factory mounts with them "upside down". The weight is still bearing on the square pad.