Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (16 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

why did you replace the lock switches? also, where did you find a rebuild kit for the transfer case motor?
I had to replace the lock position switches that are on the diffs and t-case. I believe they are notorious for failing over time. If you look for a Land cruiser one they are expensive but for toyota parts, they also cross reference to a tacoma part for cheap. I did not get a rebuild kit for the t-case motor, I had to just open it up and clean it and "sand" resurface the armature and stator contacts and re-grease. Good as new.
 
Well, 2 problems. Maybe 3.

This isn't an LS

The chevy LT system uses a pulse width modified (pwm) signal to drive the pump. Variable speed, basically. No return fuel line.

And 2nd... i have 2 stock tanks. Both are absolute junk.

3rd, the center driveshaft location now might have interfered with the stock tank anyway.

What the hell - 4. Would like increased capacity. 😜

So that big open space in the rear of the frame is just too tempting.
Steve, I have a Gen V L83 in mine, and don't use a PWM pump. I used an aeromotive 240 pump mounted in the stock fuel pump module. I added an AN bulkhead fitting for the return and ran an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. Basically the same setup as an LS.
 
Couple pieces of advice. 100% absolutely skip that style motor mount. They are OK for about a year and then you will blow the bushings out. Not only from my experience but others as well. Think about the actual surface area between the bolt and bushing, contact, it's the size of a pencil. Those are for race/drift cars that don't have lot of chassis flex and have high upkeep.

If you choose to ignore this advice and keep going with that style, those short tabs will rip off the frame eventually. Whatever you do needs to be plated and use the entire height of the frame rail.

Theoretically you could buy Gen 3/4 to Gen 5 adapter plates and use my kit but you would probably be better off just fabbing brackets to use the Gen 5 truck mount

This is gonna be a little bit more involved.

Factory mounts won't even drop between the frame rails.

Raises the engine 3-1/2 above where I want it. 😲

20230628_162601.jpg



I'm looking these over and considering using them upside down. The in² of rubber looks to be the same with the difference being one side is square, and the other is round.

I don't like the though of using a 3 bolt urethane LS mount with an adapter.
 
Last edited:
This is gonna be a little bit more involved.

Factory mounts won't even drop between the frame rails.

Raises the engine 3-1/2 above where I want it. 😲




I'm looking these over and considering using them upside down. The in² of rubber looks to be the same with the difference being one side is square, and the other is round.

I don't like the though of using a 3 bolt urethane LS mount with an adapter.

Man, those look so similar to the Gen 3/4 mounts.

Definitely do not mount those upside down. That will not work.

Have you looked into what it would take to put a Gen3/4 truck mount on that block? A bunch of companies make 1/4" thick adapter plates but the bolt pattern looks really close. Maybe you could just egg the holes out a bit. I'll make you a killer deal on a pair of my mount brackets.
 
Still just mocking up, don't worry about the connection to the mount that's bolted to the block. I'm just utilizing them for the block plate and ran a piece of bar through to hold them together. I will probably cut away a portion of the tube part before welding. If that's the route I go.

I don't see any difference in the way the force of the engine will affect the factory mounts with them "upside down". The weight is still bearing on the square pad.

20230628_172344.jpg
 
If LT and LS engine mount bosses are the same (google says they are), why is the Torfab mount design so elegant and simple while others are cutting the frame stands off?
 
Well, good news, the brakes work great with the vacuum hoses all hooked up. Bad news truck stalled coming up driveway. 99% the fuel pump quit, and better now than really on the road instead of just trying to go around the block. Looking to get the Denso kit 950-109 off o amazon. Any one have any other insight on which kit to get these days? Thanks.

Amazon product ASIN B000C5SIU2
 
If LT and LS engine mount bosses are the same (google says they are), why is the Torfab mount design so elegant and simple while others are cutting the frame stands off?

The Gen V LT variants definitely have different mounting bosses than Gen III / Gen IV LS variants.
 
If LT and LS engine mount bosses are the same (google says they are), why is the Torfab mount design so elegant and simple while others are cutting the frame stands off?
While the bolt patterns may be the same the LT and LS mounts are on different locations of the block.

This one? 😲

Screenshot_20230628_184459_DuckDuckGo.jpg



I believe this would not bolt directly to an 80 frame and work. But I might be wrong.
 
Last edited:
While the bolt patterns may be the same the LT and LS mounts are on different locations of the block.

This one? 😲

View attachment 3360575


I believe this would not bolt directly to an 80 frame and work. But I might be wrong.

I remembered I have a 5.3 in my storage building so I took a walk and peeked at it. The LS has 4 bolt holes each side aligned with the crossbolts for the 2nd and 3rd mains on both sides. I looked up pictures of the Gen V LT blocks and the motor mount bolt holes are similarly aligned with the 2nd and 3rd main crossbolts.

If they are different, it must not be by much.

Tor's pictures shows the stock 80 series motor mounts and the description says absolutely no frame cutting. Looks pretty smart/legit to me.
 
Here are LS to LT conversion mounting plates. You can see the difference in mounting.

 
Here are LS to LT conversion mounting plates. You can see the difference in mounting.


Nice find. With that visual of the differences I'm still not sure why the frame stands need to be cut off. Looks like there's room to use the 80 series rubber mount.
 
Many plug and play options have trade offs. A higher engine placement would definitely be one of them.

I have a bridge crane in my shop, so holding the engine in place while I figure out the locations is no problem.
 
Looking back at pictures, I belive I had seen them on one of Profitts restorations but forgot. I wish I had taken more pics of this 62 from underneath.

Screenshot_20230629_092841_Gallery.jpg
 
Nice find. With that visual of the differences I'm still not sure why the frame stands need to be cut off. Looks like there's room to use the 80 series rubber mount.

I designed my kit (which replaces the frame stands with a new mount to use the Gen 3 mount) around using a 4l60 (which utilizes the stock crossmember and OEM Transmission mount). One big thing is the 3FE 91/92's, which the original frame stands are about a 10-12" forwards of where the LS mounts need to go... That plus using a mount that already bolts to the engine (and designed for that engine) is one less part to manufacture.


Maybe @torfab can chime in but I don't think his kit will work for 3FE vehicles. It does look very nice though.
 
Last edited:
Still just mocking up, don't worry about the connection to the mount that's bolted to the block. I'm just utilizing them for the block plate and ran a piece of bar through to hold them together. I will probably cut away a portion of the tube part before welding. If that's the route I go.

I don't see any difference in the way the force of the engine will affect the factory mounts with them "upside down". The weight is still bearing on the square pad.

What is that black bracket and secondary bushing-looking thing ?
 
I do need to say thank you to everyone who has ordered my bracket kit. They have been the most successful product offering for my business by a long shot. :)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom