80 Series with HD-FT engine (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 5, 2021
Threads
4
Messages
44
Location
Dallas, TX
Hello,

I just purchased 2 x 1995 Land Cruisers from Japan's Auto Auction (1HD-FT manufactured post 1995 July - 1998 I believe). Looking for parts /sources for parts:

Things needed:
- Timing Belt Kits x 2
- Alternator
- Driver's seat
- More to come in the near future as I dig more...

Any/all help is appreciated

Thanks
Vince

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Get familiar with Amayama and Partsouq since you're talking about trucks we didn't get in the US. For things like seats you can try car-part.com or any of our part out vendors on here. Check the classified section.
 
So I was driving the grey one home from Freeport, TX to Dallas. Felt a little jerk and the steering got heavier on the highway. Not too long after it got dark and the lights kept dimming down until all electronics went dead (Engine was running and driving just fine). I parked and replaced the battery (engine was running) after pulling the main one out the green one (brought on a trailer) and ran it for another hour and a half until that battery died too.

I was tired, pulled the auxiliary/secondary battery out the green one and replaced it into the grey one (while running) and it died. The terminals were connected backwards and so it blew the ignition fuse. I was really tired, yes not the smartest thing to do. I replaced ALL fuses with the right Amperage inside and inspected all fuses outside (not relays, not sure how to check those....can get a voltmeter and figure that out if needed).

Anyway, since then I've been trying to jump it with heavy duty jump boxes and it doesn't crank, on the dash the battery light comes on when the key is in the "ON" position and theres a click under the hood on ignition but no crank.

Has anyone faced this issue or something similar or point me where to check/diagnose?

Thanks
 
So I was driving the grey one home from Freeport, TX to Dallas. Felt a little jerk and the steering got heavier on the highway. Not too long after it got dark and the lights kept dimming down until all electronics went dead (Engine was running and driving just fine). I parked and replaced the battery (engine was running) after pulling the main one out the green one (brought on a trailer) and ran it for another hour and a half until that battery died too.

I was tired, pulled the auxiliary/secondary battery out the green one and replaced it into the grey one (while running) and it died. The terminals were connected backwards and so it blew the ignition fuse. I was really tired, yes not the smartest thing to do. I replaced ALL fuses with the right Amperage inside and inspected all fuses outside (not relays, not sure how to check those....can get a voltmeter and figure that out if needed).

Anyway, since then I've been trying to jump it with heavy duty jump boxes and it doesn't crank, on the dash the battery light comes on when the key is in the "ON" position and theres a click under the hood on ignition but no crank.

Has anyone faced this issue or something similar or point me where to check/diagnose?

Thanks
I know the alternator might be gone, I will pull that out and inspect it but the car was running and cranking prior to the opposite polarity connection issue
 
You most likely blew the fusible links at the battery due to incorrect hook-up.
 
Hi is there a way to diagnose this? Sourced the part, glad its available and not super expensive

Is there a way to diagnose this easily? I was thinking of checking voltage in the fuse box right next to it.

Easy way to measure any current going to the starter?? The wiring looks original and well insulated.

Any steps to replace it? I found an e-manual but it doesn't say if it supports the diesel engine trucks. Reached out to then via email to clarify about 2 weeks ago and no reply.
 
Hi is there a way to diagnose this? Sourced the part, glad its available and not super expensive

Is there a way to diagnose this easily? I was thinking of checking voltage in the fuse box right next to it.

Easy way to measure any current going to the starter?? The wiring looks original and well insulated.

Any steps to replace it? I found an e-manual but it doesn't say if it supports the diesel engine trucks. Reached out to then via email to clarify about 2 weeks ago and no reply.
ok so I found this video: (Toyota 4Runner) Quick Diag and Tip of a Blown ALT 80A fuse link (going to try it out tomorrow)
 
Lots of these in New Zealand. I've got 1, same year/model. Give me a yell if your having trouble with parts. I've pretty much rebuilt mine several times and figured out most of the idiosyncrasy's of this model - all except the AC heater fan controls. That is the most complicated messed up system ever built!
Just make sure you use the body code when ordering parts. It will be a HDJ81. Main difference is the front diff is a 8" high.
 
I think in the diesel tech section you will find more relevant information. If your alternator is about to die, most of the lights on the dash will light up to sign that its about to give in.
Also, these cars are 12 volt system, but the starting is 24V, maybe thats why your jumpers were not working. Its easy to convert them 12v starting just get a 12v starter, 12 conversion write up
With the timing kit I would replace the water pump, radiator hoses too. Also, if you are new to diesels, read a bit and watch some youtube videos. Regular oil changes in 5-10k KMs are the key, including replacing the filter and using the proper oil.

For manuals, if you do some searching you can find most of them for free in pdf here on the forum, otherwise send me a pm and I will give you a drive link for them.

Good luck, you just got yourself two amazing vehicles!
 
Hello Vitek thanks for the reply, found the body/chasis and the engine manual for the HD-FT. Been trying to youtube and read as much as I can.

Also narrowed the problem down to the solenoid connection after giving it a 12V Jump on each battery individually and observing the 12/24 Switchover Relay closing but no crank from the starter.

Will try to get it out and test it or hot-wiring it is something that someone else has also suggested. End goal would be to get it to the 12V setup.

Trying to get it to start for now
 
Car is still not cranking.

Hot-wired terminals on starter from solenoid to motor, was able to give it power. Heard starter screech but no engine turn (see video)

Tested fuses inside car near driver side - ok
Tested starter relay - ok
Tested fuses under dash near changeover relay - ok
Tested continuity in terminal link - ok
Voltage spike on crank at change-over relay- ok (~18v)

Using 1000A 12V Jump starters to supplement the car batteries (see pic)
Buying new batteries tomorrow :rolleyes:

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Voltage
 
Voltage spike on crank at change-over relay- ok (~18v)
That's very low.

Test voltage at each battery as you crank it. You should have 12ve + on each battery under load.

The 24 volt start system has a habit of killing batteries prematurely IMO.
If one battery is weak, the other will try and compensate

Starter motor contacts tend to erode faster too.
 
You may have fried the fusible link from the battery.
There should be three fusible links.
Power that link up with a fuse or buy some fusible wire as that part is no longer available.
Alternatively if you have to drive, crawl under and power the solenoid from the starter main with a robust wire or couple of screwdrivers.
Make sure your key is in the run position.
I also set mine up to start24 or 12 volts or bump the engine via 12 volts...just in case.
 
You may have fried the fusible link from the battery.
There should be three fusible links.
Power that link up with a fuse or buy some fusible wire as that part is no longer available.
Alternatively if you have to drive, crawl under and power the solenoid from the starter main with a robust wire or couple of screwdrivers.
Make sure your key is in the run position.
I also set mine up to start24 or 12 volts or bump the engine via 12 volts...just in case.
Thanks for the reply @Squash

I will go back out there and re-test the fusible links one more time !

There is continuity from ground terminal to body for both batteries. Battery light is on and not showing any charge after replacing brand new batteries

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The 24 system eventually kills batteries, since they are unequally loaded. I had one drop a cell, so that it showed good voltage, but couldn't supply enough current when asked.

Start simple.
Fully charged batteries
clean tight connections
Check your Gauge and IGN fuses.
Check your fusible links on the RHS battery
Check that the start relay (LHS guard) in the engine bay clicks when you try to start it

Also ditch the 24v starting system ASAP. The 24v starting solenoid is a known failure point on these trucks. I did this and truck starts on 1/4 turn of the key even when cold. Also gives you a home for a house battery and gets rid of several 25 year old cables.
 

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