- Thread starter
- #61
This is a HUGE help in making sure I’m not missing anything before putting the hoist on the motor and yanking. I really should have started by looking at the FSM.
1HD-FTE Conversion - Creating my perfect 80 Series (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter MooseMichaels
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
1FZ is out! Thankful for good help.
Was unsure about the PS setup and what parts I would need to get for the FTE PS pump to run the 80 series steering gear, so I got to looking. Pulled the whole high pressure hose assembly from the 1FZ and it was a direct fit to the FTE PS pump, but you must bring the banjo bolt from the 1FZ over with the 1FZ hi-P line, due to the difference in thickness of the coupling.
FTE line, or what the salvage yard left of it:
1FZ line:
The rest of the PS system (original to the 1FZ chassis) should fit right up to my eye.
Was unsure about the PS setup and what parts I would need to get for the FTE PS pump to run the 80 series steering gear, so I got to looking. Pulled the whole high pressure hose assembly from the 1FZ and it was a direct fit to the FTE PS pump, but you must bring the banjo bolt from the 1FZ over with the 1FZ hi-P line, due to the difference in thickness of the coupling.
FTE line, or what the salvage yard left of it:
1FZ line:
The rest of the PS system (original to the 1FZ chassis) should fit right up to my eye.
Great job! All in now!!! I was wondering about the power steering lines, that's great to know.
- Thread starter
- #64
Separated both transfer cases from their respective transmissions so I can bolt the 80 series t-case to the A750F after cleaning it up. They are heavy. The trans did not come with the hardlines that route to the front to the trans cooler, partsouq doesn’t have them so am going to look for other sources. I’m trying to use OE parts as much as I can.
1HZ oil pan, oil pickup and gasket fit up to the FTE block really nicely, and the FTE oil level sensor was a direct fit. Man was that a whole lot of little bolts to torque up, and a whole lot of FIPG to razor blade off.
The low oil marker on the FTE dipstick is well above the top of the oil pickup, and the high marker on the dipstick is below the low point on the lobes of the crank, so it looks like the FTE dip stick and tube will be ok.
I was happy with how clean the rotating assembly looked. I cleaned up all of the gasket maker after installing the new pickup because I didn’t want to risk getting some small piece of RTV in the pickup channel. It seemed the factory absolutely hogged RTV on there, or that the pan had been off before.
The difference in profile of the 1HZ pan vs the FTE pan from the 100 series was dramatic. This means total oil volume is lower so I’ll be sticking to old school 5k mile oil changes once it’s sorted and running.
1HZ oil pan, oil pickup and gasket fit up to the FTE block really nicely, and the FTE oil level sensor was a direct fit. Man was that a whole lot of little bolts to torque up, and a whole lot of FIPG to razor blade off.
The low oil marker on the FTE dipstick is well above the top of the oil pickup, and the high marker on the dipstick is below the low point on the lobes of the crank, so it looks like the FTE dip stick and tube will be ok.
I was happy with how clean the rotating assembly looked. I cleaned up all of the gasket maker after installing the new pickup because I didn’t want to risk getting some small piece of RTV in the pickup channel. It seemed the factory absolutely hogged RTV on there, or that the pan had been off before.
The difference in profile of the 1HZ pan vs the FTE pan from the 100 series was dramatic. This means total oil volume is lower so I’ll be sticking to old school 5k mile oil changes once it’s sorted and running.
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- Thread starter
- #65
Some small updates, I pulled the tank, removed all gas, and swished with fresh diesel. Not a whole lot of varnish in the tank which was nice.
Swapped the fuel level sender to the diesel pickup and installed in the tank.
Removed the flap from the filler neck - I had never felt like a dentist until this, with picks, a light, and a dremel all on one small place.
Applied stickers because I couldn’t help myself. I need to get that fender flare re-attached.
Lastly, I started running the 12mm fuel supply line and was planning to use nickel copper lines but really didn’t like the result I was getting with them. Going to look into other diesel safe solutions - rubber or ptfe maybe.
Swapped the fuel level sender to the diesel pickup and installed in the tank.
Removed the flap from the filler neck - I had never felt like a dentist until this, with picks, a light, and a dremel all on one small place.
Applied stickers because I couldn’t help myself. I need to get that fender flare re-attached.
Lastly, I started running the 12mm fuel supply line and was planning to use nickel copper lines but really didn’t like the result I was getting with them. Going to look into other diesel safe solutions - rubber or ptfe maybe.
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I had the same thoughts about nickel copper, bending was a bitch, and then it almost always had a slight kink in it. I have dave 4x4 hunting me late 1hdft model year fuel lines. We'll see.
1/2 or 12mm line is alot harder to bend then the smaller sizes. Copper nickel is nice compared to aluminum or steel line though. In 1/2 they make different thickness. The thicker line is easier to bend.
- Thread starter
- #68
I got about a quarter of the way through bending when I tossed a huge kink into the line. Life is hard when you're stupid.
@TheBussman Do you have any rec's on NiCopp line with the thicker wall? I was using Summit Racing's white label line, Looked to be supplied by "TheStopShop" with nominal wall thickness of .028". Is there a bender you've had good results with?
Ultimately I'd prefer to go hard lines vs soft if possible.
Edit - looks like .035" wall 1/2" in line is available online. May attempt this again before going the non-hardline route.
@TheBussman Do you have any rec's on NiCopp line with the thicker wall? I was using Summit Racing's white label line, Looked to be supplied by "TheStopShop" with nominal wall thickness of .028". Is there a bender you've had good results with?
Ultimately I'd prefer to go hard lines vs soft if possible.
Edit - looks like .035" wall 1/2" in line is available online. May attempt this again before going the non-hardline route.
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we usually use 18 gauge (approximately 1.2mm wall thickness) 1/2in steel pipes, also easier to make it in three pieces, use a union or flare fitting or whatever works for you
I used .040 aluminum but copper nickel would be better. some people use the higher grade copper tube from the hardware store too, its not high pressure after all. I don't have any data in front of be about the cold working/vibration resistance properties of each, may look into it. Kinks do happen from time to time. I have an antique OTC bender that I should upgrade. The top of the line harbor freight bender looks pretty nice. I'll prob get one of those one day.
- Thread starter
- #71
Some more updates here. my 1FZ harness is officially with Jonathan, who has been very responsive/ helpful in answering questions. He said the harness should be ready in 1-3 weeks, and said he is building harnesses full time now, no longer working in avionics.
My garage is feeling very small and is Land Cruiser mania at the moment - 2 engines, 2 transmissions, and 2 transfer cases, and a huge shelf full of parts.
I moved the 100 series center diff lock actuator motor over to the 80 series t-case, as this is what the connectors on the harness Jonathan will provide will connect to; it was a direct fit to the 80 series HF2AV case. With a bit of heat and leverage, I tossed a slight "s" curve in the t-case shifter linkage.
Some goodies have been arriving from @Lutz Auto - Bryan, I'm hoping to get the cruise stalk out and shipped to you sometime next week. Thanks for all the good info/quick responses!
-Shift gate signal converter for the A750F
-Transfer case adapter plate
-Signal converter for dash lights
-EGT thermocouple and 80 series clock multi-gauge a while back
Pretty nice kit here with the inclusion of a roll pin to fix the lever, a bushing in the lever, and well thought out instructions
My garage is feeling very small and is Land Cruiser mania at the moment - 2 engines, 2 transmissions, and 2 transfer cases, and a huge shelf full of parts.
I moved the 100 series center diff lock actuator motor over to the 80 series t-case, as this is what the connectors on the harness Jonathan will provide will connect to; it was a direct fit to the 80 series HF2AV case. With a bit of heat and leverage, I tossed a slight "s" curve in the t-case shifter linkage.
Some goodies have been arriving from @Lutz Auto - Bryan, I'm hoping to get the cruise stalk out and shipped to you sometime next week. Thanks for all the good info/quick responses!
-Shift gate signal converter for the A750F
-Transfer case adapter plate
-Signal converter for dash lights
-EGT thermocouple and 80 series clock multi-gauge a while back
Pretty nice kit here with the inclusion of a roll pin to fix the lever, a bushing in the lever, and well thought out instructions
- Thread starter
- #72
Forgot to mention, I was able to make the original .025" wall NiCopp fuel supply line work. Bending by hand was just not working, so I picked up this Doyle tubing bender from Harbor Freight. With a tape measure, a coat hanger to mimic complex bends and a hell of a lot of eyeballing, I was able to get a result I could live with. It took a little bit of fine tuning, but this is now installed, following the factory line routing. Anywhere where this line contacts something - at the mounting brackets for example, I have adhesive lined heat shrink on the line to prevent it from rubbing through in the future.
I didn't have a surface large enough to bend this in the garage without doing this on this ground, so I did this in my kitchen of all places
I didn't have a surface large enough to bend this in the garage without doing this on this ground, so I did this in my kitchen of all places
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- Thread starter
- #73
Did the rear main seal - the original looked great, but after seeing some comments, I agree'd that I'd rather just do it now vs pulling the drivetrain again.
With the rear main done, I mated the transmission and engine back up. I found it easiest to torque the drive-plate-to-torque-converter bolts with the lower "ear" on the right hand side removed. Had a helper in the garage tonight (big FTE fan) ensuring I was torquing things to spec.
With the rear main done, I mated the transmission and engine back up. I found it easiest to torque the drive-plate-to-torque-converter bolts with the lower "ear" on the right hand side removed. Had a helper in the garage tonight (big FTE fan) ensuring I was torquing things to spec.
