63 FST Tie Rod, Fuel Sending Unit, Brake and Tailight Issues
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63cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #123
Going to replace the muffler and tailpipe on the truck and was looking for an equivalent to the old tailpipe hanger. I saved my hold hanger that had a rusted out piece of tailpipe attached to it and it looked similar to this. I think the bracket changed around 67 to a rectangular "cushion" similar to what is on SOR's website. According to the internet this is toyo 90917-08004. Most websites show the part number as only the cushion but a few show a drawing of something similar to this model which i found on a german website. I think this would work on our early trucks. I wonder what the current part actually looks like? Ideas? @Indygbd can you get access to actual parts or drawings to compare?
I checked that number at the forklift parts supplier. They give a similar picture. I ordered one, will take measurements when I have it.
Going to replace the muffler and tailpipe on the truck and was looking for an equivalent to the old tailpipe hanger. I saved my hold hanger that had a rusted out piece of tailpipe attached to it and it looked similar to this. I think the bracket changed around 67 to a rectangular "cushion" similar to what is on SOR's website. According to the internet this is toyo 90917-08004. Most websites show the part number as only the cushion but a few show a drawing of something similar to this model which i found on a german website. I think this would work on our early trucks. I wonder what the current part actually looks like? Ideas? @Indygbd can you get access to actual parts or drawings to compare?
I recently bought some of these from Toyota (my local dealer). I used the part number from a mid-late 70’s BJ40. I have some original NOS ones from the 60’s and the look the same. Remind me to take pics and find the part number.
Got mine too. Not exact but good match to the original from 62:
Thanks for posting the part number. We were looking for this part.
Thanks for posting the part number. We were looking for this part.
63cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #132
So i have an eaton heater on this truck. Appears to be dealer installed as when i loosen the pull knob/switch, it has a D shaped whole. I don't think many DIY's would do that. It has a "defrost" pull knob(pulls a flapper in the heater) that you twist to turn on the fan. I worked yesterday to clean the fan up (new mexico mud dobbers loved the space) but the fan only turns at a very low speed. I can't remove the pull knob all the way out of the truck without cutting it off since whatever holds it on appears to be broke off. No allen head, no screw. If only low speed is the norm, then there is no reason to cut the knob off to remove the switch but i suspect my switch is bad and i will need to replace it to get the 2 or three speed fan working. I found a few threads on the heater but no comments on how effective it is or how many speeds it had. Does any run the eaton heater?
63cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #133
I had the 40 out today and had to take the freeway which isnt too fun in a vehicle that doesn't seem to want to push past 50 but will get to 55. After a nice downhill run, i had to go back up the other side. Was gradually losing speed to 45-50 and seemed to be running a bit odd. I pulled out the choke a little more and i instantly got more power. It was warmed up but i have needed to leave the choke on slightly to keep it running better. I know i should not need the choke but since i am not a mechanic, i am looking for some ideas as to what my problem would be as I would expect the truck to perform worse with the choke on. Do i need a carb rebuild? carb/timing Adjustment Valve adjustment? or possible vacuum leak, or all of the above. Any help is appreciated on the first steps i should take.
Could be a few things. Can’t hurt to clean out the carb and toss a kit in it. Reuse your old metering rods as the rods in the early 1bbl kits won’t work in the early SD-40 units. Also check for a vacuum link.
Also, the external linkage down at the bottom of the carb that engages the metering rods tends to get buggered up. Take a close look at the little flat plate part of the linkage and make sure the holes haven’t gotten messed up and that it’s still working properly without play in it.
Also, the external linkage down at the bottom of the carb that engages the metering rods tends to get buggered up. Take a close look at the little flat plate part of the linkage and make sure the holes haven’t gotten messed up and that it’s still working properly without play in it.
63cruiser
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- #135
Found original Koiti Lenses 1046 and 1047 on ebay for $5.00 plus shipping from Australia. Cleaned up the housings a bit and screwed them in. While the jury is out as to whether these are original to the truck, at least they are a complete set now. Are the rubber grommets at the bottom the same size as the new signals? Does anybody have an eaton heater? Is it one or two speeds? Does anybody know if i can use the "H" switch from a 66-69 to operate the fan? I think my switch is shot.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
Can you post a picture of your heater? My early '64 has a Hupp aftermarket heater. It has a simple one-speed fan with a variable speed fan switch. I bought a replacement NOS switch for mine on eBay. If your heater fan motor has just a single power wire and a ground, you could use the same switch I used.
BTW, the Power King tire on the RF is mounted backwards. Those are directional tires, the lugs should point in the direction of rotation as the LF does. Scrolling back through the pics in this thread, it looks like the tire shop mounted all 5 tires as left-rotation, at least 2 should have been mounted the other direction. The spare can be either, as it will always be wrong for one side or the other.
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ClemsonCruiser
Supporting Vendor
63cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #138
Here are the heater pictures. I am no electrical expert but with 3 wires wouldn't that seem to indicate 2 speed and a ground? If so, i would think that the older toyota heater switch maybe perfect. I think those fans were two speed.
Also, thanks for the note on the power kings. Would not have thought about that. Of course, i haven't been offroad or in crappy weather so it hasn't been much of an issue. Ill add that to the list of things to do list.
My 62 has the dual sided turn signals. And it came with a rear view mirror on the windshield.
63cruiser
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- #140
Had the muffler shop put on new exhaust with new OEM muffler. The old one was not in great shape but the OEM is actually louder. The best thing is that the exhaust fumes are no longer rolling into the cab with the back window open now that the PO's rusty and bent tailpipe is no longer exiting under the truck but right behind the drivers side tire like it should be. While i have been driving it around to a few events in Cincinnati-coffee and cars and beers and gears, it has slowly developed a squeal and it is getting worse. Under load it is bad but if i depress the clutch or let off the gas, or sitting (at idle or revved up) in the driveway with no load, the noise stops. It gets worse the longer i drive. I did a quick mud search and thought to check my belt.
While the belt is not inline, it does not appear to be the culprit as when I took it off and drove it around the sound was still there. That leads to a several questions:
1) Could the sound be my clutch going? It doesn't feel like it is slipping. Could it be a bearing issue? The FSM notes this is usually caused hen the pedel is depressed but mine is opposite. Any thoughts are appreciated.
2) Why is my fan pulley not in alignment with the engine and alternator? and can it be adjusted?
While the belt is not inline, it does not appear to be the culprit as when I took it off and drove it around the sound was still there. That leads to a several questions:
1) Could the sound be my clutch going? It doesn't feel like it is slipping. Could it be a bearing issue? The FSM notes this is usually caused hen the pedel is depressed but mine is opposite. Any thoughts are appreciated.
2) Why is my fan pulley not in alignment with the engine and alternator? and can it be adjusted?
