63 FST Tie Rod, Fuel Sending Unit, Brake and Tailight Issues (1 Viewer)

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The generator and fan belt on my '64 looked exactly like that when I bought it. Note that yours is mounted in front of the brackets. I removed mine and bolted it back up behind as shown. Much better pulley alignment.

I can't remember if I had to do anything to the lower 2-ear bracket or not. But if I did, it was just nut and bolt job, no mods.

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Simple change. Thanks. I feel like the fan won't be in alignment with the other two but that will definately be in improvment from mine. Any thoughts on the squeal?
 
If it goes away when you press the clutch or back off the gas while the truck is in motion, I would think it almost has to be a bearing in the transmission or transfer case. Does the squeal change with road speed changes? Or with gear changes?
 
Sound doesn’t change with gear changes. Just gets louder under more load. From what I have read, a bad pilot bearing squeals when the clutch is pressed in. A throughout bearing when the clutch is not depressed. But I have no sound while sitting idle so... I think I am good on those two. Hopefully not a problem with the transmission or transfer case as that could get expensive.
 
So not a dragging parking brake as best I can tell. I went to AutoZone and got a vacuum gauge and compression tester. Vacum shows about 17.5 which I think is ok as around 19 is where it should be. Also checked compression. It was 120,120,90,0,0,120. Throttle wide open on a warm engine. I had driven it this morning and it had no guts. Double checked 4 and 5 with the same results. Oil looks clean with no coolant so i think i am clear on a head gasket issue. Am I looking at a valve problem? Tried to pull the valve cover and it wasn't budging. I don't have new gaskets so I didn't want to push my luck. Thoughts?
 
So I got the valve cover pulled and it isn’t pretty. Looks like it could use a good cleaning. Have some condensation in the valve cover. Reinstalled cover, went down and rented a compression gauge from autozone and warmed up the engine for a valve adjustment. Set TDC and adjust intake to .008 and exhaust to .014. One full rotation back to TDC and adjust the rest. Still no compression in 4 and 5. No coolant in oil so not sure it is a head gasket issue. Not smoking crazy like oil in the cylinders so not sure it’s the rings. What else should this rookie mechanic be checking? I know the engine is a bit tired but not ready for a rebuild yet. Maybe it’s time to pull the head next?
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Probably the head gasket is blown between the two cylinders. Take of the head. Not that difficult to do on these engines.

This little bit of white sludge doesn’t look very alarming to me.
 
Thought I read I have to pull the engine mounts to pull the head? True on an F135? I assume I Should have the head decked and manifolds checked for true when I have it apart. New head gasket and manifold gasket? Looks like 04112-60062 is still available. Just need to add a valve cover gasket and valve cover nut seals?
 
Pulled the head today. Blown gasket between 4and 5.
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So this amateur mechanic is feeling much better now knowing it is only a head gasket and not a piston. I will have the head sent out to be cleaned and decked. New gaskets on order. Hopefully next weekend I can get it put back together. Top of the pistons look good and the cylinder walls look smooth as a baby’s butt. The area behind the side cover is filthy. Not sure it has ever been opened but there is lot of sludge. Any good way to clean it. I used about 1000 shop towels and tried to clean everything up. Some sludge went down the holes to the cam and oil pan. Can i assume after I run it for a while I should do another oil change or even drop the pan? Anything else I should check while it’s down?
 
Old thread but wondering if replacing the hg corrected your compression numbers and improved runtime? My engine appears to be the same vintage as yours (63/64). Thanks.
 
Yes it did. Had the head sent out but did not have new valves installed. I had read that you don’t won’t to make the top end too tight if the bottom end isn’t perfect. She’s a little loose all around. Smokes a little on startup but starts every time and runs strong but….never actually checked compression afterwards since it ran so strong and good. I would highly recommend a distributor rebuild by @4Cruisers as I had a pretty good wobble in the shaft and it was affecting the spark. Dramatic improvement afterwards
 
Been a bit for an update. Did you ever get your oil pressure light figured out?
 
if I remember correctly, cruiser outfitters had mistakenly sent me a later oil sender. When I explained the problem, they sent me a different one. The sending units are apparently different for light vs gauge but they looked identical. I would check with them first. If they don’t have them, looks like SOR does have the early one on their website. All of the other vendors imply the sending unit is the same from 1958 on but they are not.
 

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