63 FST Tie Rod, Fuel Sending Unit, Brake and Tailight Issues (1 Viewer)

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pic. i don't have them bent over since i don't drive in the rain and really don't use them. bending will help lessen the chance of them coming off and may help with the general floppiness
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I have brake lights, turn lights and bib lights going. But i don't have headlights. Power to the switch and no power coming from the switch. Again, i am a novice so maybe i am just not thinking this through. Could the problem be in the switch? If so, are the switches rebuildable? If not, i guess i am looking for a used one.
Have you checked to see if the head lights work by adding power and ground at the light itself? You can get a power pack and check for this at the wire block. Next i would try the dimmer switch, i have had bad connections there before that prevented the power continuing to the head lights. If all that is good then it might be the switch.
 
Have you checked to see if the head lights work by adding power and ground at the light itself? You can get a power pack and check for this at the wire block. Next i would try the dimmer switch, i have had bad connections there before that prevented the power continuing to the head lights. If all that is good then it might be the switch.
Thanks. Yes I can jump to the lights and get them lit. I will check the dimmer. Also maybe stupid question but left one click is all lights and two clicks just bib/tail lights? What is one click to the right?
 
Thanks for the pictures. It is helping me get a better understanding of how to troubleshoot my issues and order parts. Now...for the next problem. My oil pressure light is on. I would guess i need a new sender as everything appears to be running just fine and my oil level is fine. I plan on replacing my sending unit first but the part number of 83530-60030 (fj25/early40 parts thread) does not look like what i have. It looks like there are still OEM sending units that "look" similar to mine but say they are for different years. Any help is appreciated. If the light still does not go off with a new sender, where do i trouble shoot next? Oil Pump?
 
Don't guess. Beg, borrow or buy a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what you really have for pressure. The switch for the oil light closes at obscenely low pressure (if you watch the light when you shut down it goes out well after the engine is stopped) so you want to know what you really have for pressure.

Does the light go out when you disconnect the sender? If it doesn't, you have a short.
 
Don't guess. Beg, borrow or buy a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what you really have for pressure. The switch for the oil light closes at obscenely low pressure (if you watch the light when you shut down it goes out well after the engine is stopped) so you want to know what you really have for pressure.

Does the light go out when you disconnect the sender? If it doesn't, you have a short.
I will try to disconnect the sender altogether to see if I have a short. It seems to go out when I am coasting but comes back on under load. I would think it would be the opposite if I had a pressure issue. I am interested in checking with a gauge. Do I just connnect it at the same oil sender location? Again sorry for all the questions but I appreciate the input.
 
Gauge will connect right where the sender is removed. Probably an 1/8" npt adapter inxluded but close enough.

If by coasting you mean neutral with the engine going back near idle that is when you would see low pressure. At more rpm you're moving more oil no matter how worn things are better chance of keeping pressure.
 
Good news, no short in the oil sender wiring (goes off when i unplug it) and pressure on a cold engine was around 50 and dropping to 40 on idle after running a bit. So i think i just need to replace the sending unit. Anybody have the part number on the correct oil sender? The one in the parts page of the 25 section does not appear to be the correct model number (or at least it looks a lot different). Are all senders the same? Mine has no ground connection so i would assume i would want to match on the next one. Looking to go OEM if we can find one.
 
SOR has them, 026-20-AE. I think i have the Toyota part #, probably cheeper than SOR if you got it from Beno or another Toyota parts supplier.
If i find the # ill post it for you.
 
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Had a little time to clean up the forty yesterday and work on the lights. Thanks to you all, I went to the dimmer switch first as recommended by tahoe40/45. pulled off the "cover" that looked to be some sort of electrical tape and factory rubber that was badly degraded. Pulled the wires and scrubbed with vinegar and reinstalled. I now have headlights. Thanks for the tip. I will not be driving in the rain much but if I do have to, did the dimmer have a cover to protect the connections or should I just leave it? Also, anybody have a part number on a replacement dimmer that fits the factory holes? SOR perhaps? Almost everyone else's seem to indicate new holes have to be drilled and I would like to squirrel away a replacement now if hey are available
I also cleaned her up with some CLR and scrub pad. I do not plan on driving in the rain or snow but I am terified of the rust getting worse...which I know it will living in KY even though she will be garaged. I would like to leave a lot of the "patina" that is left. I was thinking waxing to help protect her on the topside and wire brushing what I can and a coat of fluid film on the bottom side. Thoughts? Here are a few pictures with the new seats and after she had her first bath in what I guess was 30 years. New green canvas top comes next week.
 
So cruiser outfitters sent me a new oil sender unit and the oil pressure light is still on. Since I had a mechanic check the oil pressure and it was OK, where should I look next. I thought maybe I had some crap in the sender hole so I cranked it without the sending unit. Not a smart move. Didn't realize that much oil would pump out. So...that is not the issue. I have read on mud that you shouldn't use tape on the threads because it needs to ground to the engine. Since I didn't use tape and that is not the issue, should I make sure my engine is grounded? Where would that be. Again, ecxcuse my ignorance. On a side note, I was able to install my wipers and get them working less the park function. Sounds like a winter project. Also got the soft top installed two weeks ago and new replacement mirrors (these are not a direct replacements). May switch back if I can find mirror material cut to the right size.
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Really would like to find two of the double sided lenses. Please pm me with pricing so I know how much I have to save up. need an amber (faded to clear) and a red.
 
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Can anyone tell me what the thing on the back of the generator is? The wire to it is questionable at best. What does that part do?
 
It looks like a condenser to me. Meant to reduce radio interference.
 

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